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Paper or Plastic?


Unobtanium

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I'll continue to buy these trigger packs for premium builds. It's easier than trying to find OEM aluminum ones. Plus the cast vs. machines finish is a real plus. No rough anodizing on moving contact points. I've had to file rough casting off of OeM parts 2 out of 3 times.

 

I hope they'll keep making these for years to come.

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So now I gotta buy this too now. ..

 

Damn you unobtanium!! I still have the hammer in bag. Can't put it in yet. Too much a collectors item.

 

I just finished installing my metal trigger guard. I noticed a little bit of side to side play. Still better than the plastic unit IMO.

 

Still waiting on a Proper charging handle. Any with the correct peg?

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Yeah I'll see you there,

 

Messaged a&s

 

As with everything. I recommend you message them with the same concern, if the opinion is shared.

 

"At this time we only offer the one finish. Black is a possibility later as we catch up with orders and get all the diff models to market. Raw is not possible as the parts are machined for the dimensional changes in hard anodize."

 

"Hmm I see. While I'm not sure why that color was chosen in the first place, I'll look into blasting and re coating, or simply holding off on the purchase,.. although they might be out of production next week, who knows.

 

I recommend a more neutral color next time.. 99% of guns are black, and this color looks wack on a 2,000$ gun. Only legitimate option is to bead blast and send out as soon as I get it... which is distasteful

 

Anyhow. Thanks for the info, hope my thoughts are considered. "

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Snap ring pliers and some punches. One of those Glock tools works well if you don't have a full punch set. The safety is the biggest pain. It's hard to get the pin back in place without damaging the spring. I drive the pin about half way in to the visible hole, then compress the spring with a punch so it is held in place under the roll pin. Then carefully drive the pin the rest of the way in.

 

The trigger packs look complicated, but they really aren't that tough.

 

I agree they should have just went with a black finish and left off the laser engraving.

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Snap ring pliers and some punches. One of those Glock tools works well if you don't have a full punch set. The safety is the biggest pain. It's hard to get the pin back in place without damaging the spring. I drive the pin about half way in to the visible hole, then compress the spring with a punch so it is held in place under the roll pin. Then carefully drive the pin the rest of the way in.

 

The trigger packs look complicated, but they really aren't that tough.

 

I agree they should have just went with a black finish and left off the laser engraving.

 

Thanx! I have everything except how to handle the safety pin.

 

I thought there was a way to grind a small screwdriver to do that. Make it like a fork.

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Just ordered one. I am assuuming the Briley trigger will install without issue. I also asked if they had plans to offer TI versions for the totally obsessed among us......

 

I am also planning to order a TTI lifter if folks feel that is the best option.

 

Rasyad

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Snap ring pliers and some punches. One of those Glock tools works well if you don't have a full punch set. The safety is the biggest pain. It's hard to get the pin back in place without damaging the spring. I drive the pin about half way in to the visible hole, then compress the spring with a punch so it is held in place under the roll pin. Then carefully drive the pin the rest of the way in.

 

The trigger packs look complicated, but they really aren't that tough.

 

I agree they should have just went with a black finish and left off the laser engraving.

This is the exact method I used. AR15 gas-tube roll-pin punch.

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Thanx! I have everything except how to handle the safety pin.

 

I thought there was a way to grind a small screwdriver to do that. Make it like a fork.

unnecessary. Drive the pin in flush with the wall, drop the spring in, GENTLY EVER SO GENTLY, proceed to drive the pin in further until it pushes the spring against the opposite wall but doesn't "pin" it. Then compress the spring and shift it midline so that it impinges against the underside of the pin. Visually verify. use a flashlight. Proceed to finish driving the pin him. I did this 4-5 times the other day with narry an issue swapping stuff around.

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unnecessary. Drive the pin in flush with the wall, drop the spring in, GENTLY EVER SO GENTLY, proceed to drive the pin in further until it pushes the spring against the opposite wall but doesn't "pin" it. Then compress the spring and shift it midline so that it impinges against the underside of the pin. Visually verify. use a flashlight. Proceed to finish driving the pin him. I did this 4-5 times the other day with narry an issue swapping stuff around.

 

 

I see what ya did there...

 

Thanx!

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It has an enhanced ramp on the front face of the trigger guard for loading two rounds at a time.

 

Does it help? Using my M4 in 3-gun, I have been loading twins for a couple of years and quads for about six months now using the stock metal trigger guard. Curious if this TG actually helps.

 

Mike

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  • 4 weeks later...

Really interesting discussion. No black finish is disappointing. Not sure that blasting and reanodizing would be the way to go, thinking of dimensional changes. Not thrilled with the brand etching either.

 

So, those of you that have installed in the M4, how do you like it?

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I just installed one of the A&S Engineering aluminum trigger guards and found it to be impressively designed and finished. I'm sending the receiver out to have the loading port opened. This mod is a must for smooth double or quad loading. The rear shell sits nicely on the ramp preventing it from slipping side to side as you conduct the load.

IMG_0331.jpg

IMG_0332.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
You could easily have the visible portion of the trigger guard Cerakoted whatever color you desired really cheap. Just leave the internal areas its natural anodized finish.

 

Im happy with the units.

 

A local shop quoted me $20 for ceracoat on the trigger guard. Did you skip coating the internal areas? I suppose if I fit this mod I'll need to open up the loading port for full effect.

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A local shop quoted me $20 for ceracoat on the trigger guard. Did you skip coating the internal areas? I suppose if I fit this mod I'll need to open up the loading port for full effect.

 

 

20 bucks is a good price for Cerakote for a one off item that'll need taped up. I would recommend leaving their finish in place on the interior. Cerakote can be a little thick and might cause tolerance stacking issues where your shell elevator may not move as freely. I'd just have them paint the visible exterior areas.

 

If you're going to bevel the loading port, wait to paint so you can have the receiver refinished as well. The only area you need to really pay attention to when beveling these is the pin that holds the shell stop in place. I do them by hand which takes about 4-5 hours. I shape it with a flat file, then use a dremel with a flexible end to finish shaping it. I then polish down to 2000 grit with the sandpapers wrapped around a flat edge. By the time I'm done, the aluminum is a near mirror finish.

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So what's the consensus on these new trigger housings? Is there a gap/void in the fit to the sides of the receiver well and pistol grip? Kinda looks like there is when I look at the pics in this thread.

 

They look really nice. I have the aluminum trigger housing in my M4, not the new polymer type but if these fit like the OEM do, I would consider buying one just for the aesthetic value, they're very pretty.

Edited by Evolution
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