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Looking for light/rail pics


ZarZ

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So I got the IWC scout mount, and I’m curious what everyone is doing for the remote switch and light setups. Pics would be great. Not sure if I would be better with a rail.

 

I was thinking running the Cloud Defensive REIN with switch on the opposite side picatinny rail but it’s pretty far forward then.

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1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:

I’m a fan of the Modlite 18650 body with a Modlite PLHv2 lamp head. I machined the shroud off of a Surefire Z68 tailcap so it doesn’t jam my thumb as much under recoil. 

I was hoping to get a reply from you, since you are the M4 Guru here. I have over a dozen 18650 Streamlight handheld/Weapon lights I was going to use a HL-X light, but realized that the M4 SBS deserves more class, then I been throwing around the ideal of a Modlight with the Surefire tapeswitch on the OEM handguards. My other idea was either modlite switch on the IWC picatinny or Cloud Defense REIN with its switch on the IWC picatinny rail. But part of me is wondering if i'd be better with a rail vs the IWC. I'm so torn. 

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I haven't been impressed with any of the rail systems for the Benelli M4 to be honest. Their ergonomics suck, complicate disassembly and add a bunch of weight. Tape switches themselves are kind of shit, even the "good ones" like TAPS. The only ones that are tolerable are the Unity Tactical variety called the HotButton.

With an SBS, the weapon light will be closer to the muzzle which will equal a lot less barrel shadowing. If you must have a tape switch, I'd look into ways of attaching it to the OEM handguards and stick with the IWC mount. That mount is hard to beat, hell, it's probably the cheapest option out there too.

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1 hour ago, aznwhip said:

Modlite mod button lite.

PXL_20210808_030914926.jpg

PXL_20210808_030930964.jpg

Is that the Briley rail? Also that the 4.5" or 7" Modlite button? Also looks like an Arisaka scout mount? How you like the rail? Is it a pain to assemble/break down the shotgun?

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6 minutes ago, StrangerDanger said:

I haven't been impressed with any of the rail systems for the Benelli M4 to be honest. Their ergonomics suck, complicate disassembly and add a bunch of weight. Tape switches themselves are kind of shit, even the "good ones" like TAPS. The only ones that are tolerable are the Unity Tactical variety called the HotButton.

With an SBS, the weapon light will be closer to the muzzle which will equal a lot less barrel shadowing. If you must have a tape switch, I'd look into ways of attaching it to the OEM handguards and stick with the IWC mount. That mount is hard to beat, hell, it's probably the cheapest option out there too.

that answers my questions about the above rail. Ya I know alot of the tape switches have issues, but it is a hell of alot nicer with recoil of a shotgun than a holding a tail button or hot button, though you did mod yours for less thumb abuse. I also am very versed in the lasers, lights, switches etc from the AR world.

I have the IWC buttstock QD, the IWC Scout mount and the picatinny rail for it. but sadly the quality switches would need to mount to a rail, cause as you said tapes suck. but with regular handguards the only rail is way forward on the IWC. And I planned to use the 18650 body because i can run the light on the right side of the gun without barrel shadowing, so it sits correctly in the pelican case.

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18 minutes ago, ZarZ said:

Is that the Briley rail? Also that the 4.5" or 7" Modlite button? Also looks like an Arisaka scout mount? How you like the rail? Is it a pain to assemble/break down the shotgun?

Agency rail. Really not a big deal pulling weapon apart unless I'm deep cleaning the pistons, which I just have to undo some more screws... A bit more work, but that that much of a PITA. Would be a pain the the field but I'm not stripping down to that level in the field. 7". I had the 4.5 and was too short. Would be fine if I moved light to other side. Arisaka mount cause the Agency rail covers the IWC mount unfortunately. I prefer a remote button cause I've split thumbnail before keeping thumb on back of light button.

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Same, that's where I got my start too. I run a MAWL and a Modlite white light on my go to AR.

 

I would notch a set of handguards for whatever pad you want to use, then drill two small holes to run zip ties thru the plastic to secure it in place from the inside in two places.

Maybe use something like this switch.

https://modlite.com/collections/switches/products/modlite-modbutton-lite?variant=32291865624612

 

Then if you're concerned about a method of using a constant on setting, I think you could use one of those Surefire DSOO tailcaps that offers up a switch port and a momentary/constant on.

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I was thinking of taking my handguard and maybe mounting that IWC rail section to the right side with some washers on the back side for support, so i could use the Modlite switch or the Cloud REIN switch there, since nether were designed to be attached to a flat surface

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11 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

Same, that's where I got my start too. I run a MAWL and a Modlite white light on my go to AR.

 

I would notch a set of handguards for whatever pad you want to use, then drill two small holes to run zip ties thru the plastic to secure it in place from the inside in two places.

Maybe use something like this switch.

https://modlite.com/collections/switches/products/modlite-modbutton-lite?variant=32291865624612

 

Then if you're concerned about a method of using a constant on setting, I think you could use one of those Surefire DSOO tailcaps that offers up a switch port and a momentary/constant on.

By notching the handguard, you referring to grind big off some of the grooves so the switch lays flush to the handguards better right?

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SD,  Yes the top piece of the IWC mount is reversed which allows clearance with the Agency guard. This leaves a bit more gap between the IWC halves which looks a bit odd but it's tight and holding up well so far. I have an Arasaki mount to try as well. Work in progress.....

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I put the Streamlight HLx on my M4 w/IWC mount.  Also used the tape switch in the kit.

Never used one of these on an AR.  Always use surefire scouts.  But I have put a few hundred rounds 

since installing and I really like it.  Didn't know It would bring down the class level.

Has anyone had a streamlight fail??  This is my first one using a tape switch.

I had first mounted a m300 mini surefire and that bezel ate up my thumb.

Also, if you are going to shoot your gun a lot.  Make sure you locktight that IWC mount.  It will come loose.

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11 hours ago, D'zaster said:

SD,  Yes the top piece of the IWC mount is reversed which allows clearance with the Agency guard. This leaves a bit more gap between the IWC halves which looks a bit odd but it's tight and holding up well so far. I have an Arasaki mount to try as well. Work in progress.....

That's actually an interesting idea. I'll try reversing mine and try to see if I like it. So by gaining that slight extra clearance, you'd still have to go with the pic rail and can't scout mount it?

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8 hours ago, RJHUB said:

I put the Streamlight HLx on my M4 w/IWC mount.  Also used the tape switch in the kit.

Never used one of these on an AR.  Always use surefire scouts.  But I have put a few hundred rounds 

since installing and I really like it.  Didn't know It would bring down the class level.

Has anyone had a streamlight fail??  This is my first one using a tape switch.

I had first mounted a m300 mini surefire and that bezel ate up my thumb.

Also, if you are going to shoot your gun a lot.  Make sure you locktight that IWC mount.  It will come loose.

The Surefire Tape switches in particular don't flow full power to the high output lights. Also the Streamlights aren't bad, but they aren't Modlite or Cloud Defensive good, and are made in China. Lumens aren't all that matter, so while the Streamlights have high lumen, their Candela is often less than stellar. I have Streamlights, lots of them because they adopted 18650 rechargables YEARS before some other companies, and have great flashlights for everyday use. All lights can fail, and Streamlight has an amazing warranty, never ask me questions, always send new light.

Outside of professional use I always recommend Streamlight, best performance per dollar under $200

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Was quite impressed with the throw on the HLx.  Used it right at sunset the other night at the range and it worked great.

Mainly wondered how good tape would last and how it would handle recoil.  

I will probably put a scout light on it.  Just didn't have a spare one.  

I do have a surefire with the dual switch tailcap on a m600df and when using tape switch it does seem dimmer.

 

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2 hours ago, RJHUB said:

Was quite impressed with the throw on the HLx.  Used it right at sunset the other night at the range and it worked great.

Mainly wondered how good tape would last and how it would handle recoil.  

I will probably put a scout light on it.  Just didn't have a spare one.  

I do have a surefire with the dual switch tailcap on a m600df and when using tape switch it does seem dimmer.

 

Might want to look into Modlite, they use Surefire mounts, tail caps, and switches, but way better performance.

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