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Hopefully you have a padded vice block or you can use a thick rag. You need to stage the receiver so that you aren’t lighting your rag on fire or the rubber blocks. Email me at [email protected] I’ll give you my number and we can text if that helps.

Just saw this. You want to take the internal parts out of the installed receiver extension so you aren’t heating the spring and lubricant inside. When I put the receiver in the vice, I have the shotgun upside down with the trigger guard up. I clamp on beneath the rear sight and be sure not to smash the trigger group pin. You want the receiver stripped of all parts. Stock and barrel should be out. Youll be applying heat for about 45 seconds at a time. Then slip the 27mm wrench over the lock nut and give it a try. Don’t put a lot of torque on it. You want the heat to do its job. When it doesn’t budge, put more heat on it mainly focusing on the base of the old receiver extension. Then try the wrench again. You’ll see the nut turn a few degrees then get stuck. Apply more heat and try again until it has been removed. Once the nut is free, focus on the receiver extension. Apply more heat and use a 18 or 19mm wrench on the flats of the receiver extension down at the bottom of the extension. You need to keep track of how many full rotations it takes to remove the extension so that you can install the new one at the same depth.

I really liked Daves Metal works. I think he is only asking 90 bucks for a 7 rnd tube. Its metal, but strong.

In my own personnel experience, the thread locking agent begins to smoke just a bit before its ready to be overcome. I too was very afraid of overheating my parts, but found this common sign to be pretty universal when dealing with there loctite. I've molested 6 M4's now... mag tubes and recoil tubes.

Just make sure you don't remove much material. If you make it too loose, the stock will be able to tighten and untighten to the extent of how much you've opened up the notch. You want it to be tight. Extra care should be taken timing the stock. Even being slightly out of alignment can cause interference.

The color match is better on the carriercomp tubes. Carriercomp tunes are cheaper. FFT often has wait times lately too.

I’ve done that too. There are a host of parts that benefit the cycling. You can run lighter loads trouble free when the plating is done. The M4 doesn’t show much for corrosion unlike a lot of other shotguns out there. So the main benefit to Np3 is going to be the lubrications and resistance to failure aspect. One of mine I don’t even bother cleaning. I just squirt more oil in and it is good to go. Adding more oil probably isn’t even necessary. That M4 has well over 18,000 rounds thru it. I think I’ve been up around 4000 before I feel bad enough to clean it. Biggest benefit to cycling to least for plating; Bolt Carrier Receiver Extension Receiver Receiver extension Plunger Hammer Bolt Carrier Link Bolt Head Pistons Magazine Follower Magazine Tube Firing Pin BCG cam pin BCG link pin Bolt Breech Lever Bolt Breech Lever Pin Breech Latch Plunger Aluminum trigger frame Hammer Bushing Shell Elevator Shell release lever Disconnector Plunger Bolt Release Lever Bolt Release Lever Pin Tearing apart things like the ARGO plugs is doable and make it easier to clean. You won’t see much performance improvement though. When buying say a trigger pack from FFT, the components are already plated in Np3. You don’t have to risk messing plating ground surfaces. I made a jig to polish the interior of the magazine tubes after plating. It’s basically a big cleaning rod for shotguns that has fine steel wool on it. It’s then run thru it for 10 minutes or so to bring the interior to a polished mirror surface.

Excellent process. The Weapon will feel and sound completely different once done. Very little if any tolerance stacking issues with NP3. The recoil impulse is different. Like the recoil isn’t as sharp. Some who who have had Robar do their disassembly and reassembly have not been completely happy with the results. Many items are skipped since they’re a PITA to get apart. Items such as the bolt. You’ll want all your aftermarket accessories plated along with the shotgun for cosmetics The process is super expensive. You can count on around 900-1000 dollars by the time you do the chemical stripping and shipping costs. The process takes along time. I typically see 9-15 weeks for parts to return.

I haven't had good luck with a heatgun on any of the newer M4's. I tried for two hours on one once and got nowhere. The MAPP torch is the way to go. It only takes about 3 - 4 minutes to break the factory thread locker down. You can use the existing locknut which is 27mm on the new receiver extension.

Would be glad to help. If you want to tackle it yourself, it is something that you could be walked through. It will require heat to get the existing receiver extension off. I use a MAPP torch which is pretty inexpensive and safe to use.