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OK, you forced me to google the meaning of Trypophobia.... ? Thanks for the review. Cross it off the list and keep relying on the tried and true OEM.

Finally an easier solution for adding a Limbsaver to the Benelli M4 is available. This is significantly easier and requires fewer parts in the past assemblies of the 10111 model that required the Noveske adapter plate that is no longer sold. For this assembly we'll be using the Limbsaver 10403. This model has a raised lip on the inside of the buttpad that helps center the pad on the stock. First step is to remove the collapsible stock from your shotgun. You will then need to remove the factory buttpad by using a philips screw driver and inserting it in to the two small holes on the factory buttpad. Use a little oil or spit on the driver to help push it in. Push the driver in firmly as you unscrew the fasteners. Pull the buttpad away from the stock as you unscrew it. The screws will remain captive inside of the buttpad. Not the large hole roughly in the center of the stock. This is where the receiver extension passes thru the stock and in to the buttpad when the stock is in the fully collapsed position. The next step is to fit your buttpad to the stock. I had to purchase screws from the hardware store to make this buttpad work for this application. I used M4 machine screws, 0.7 thread pitch, 16mm in length. You will need two of them. The ones I bought use a 2.5mm allen head driver. Press the screws in to the Limbsaver buttpad through the two holes in the rubber. Use your driver to press since it will have to push past the rubber. They will snap in to place once seated. You'll see the threads sticking out of the bottom of the buttpad. Screw the buttpad on to the stock. Note the two holes top and bottom for accessing the screws. Now we need to make a hole in the plastic base of the buttpad for the receiver extension to pass in to. Now that you have the pad attached to the stock, you'll want to get a Sharpie marker with the cap off and drop it down the hole of the collapsible stock where the receiver extension goes. I use a silver one since it makes it easier to see the marks. I shake the stock around a little to get the marker to give me a witness mark as to where I am going to drill. Now remove the buttpad from the stock and check your witness marks. You should have something like this. You now know roughly where you need to drill your 7/8" hole. Rather than trying to bore that big of a hole in one pass, you'll have better luck starting small and moving up. I start with a 1/4" Forester bit and drill it out on a drill press. You do not want to drill all the way through the buttpad. You only want to drill through the plastic back which will open up to a void inside the buttpad. I suppose you could drill this out with a electric drill, but your quality of work is likely going to suffer. First hole is drilled. Take the pad and offer it back up to the stock. Look down the hole where the receiver extension goes down with a flash light and see how close to center your hole is to the hole you're looking down. I see that I'm a little off center to the right of the screen. No problem. Move to the next size up bit 3/8" and try to correct for the alignment. Continue through the 1/2, 5/8 and finally the 7/8 bit. Here is the end results. Clean out all the plastic debris from inside the buttpad and clean up the edges. I use a deburring tool but you don't have to get that fancy. Offer the buttpad up to the stock again and check to see if you can see the sides of the buttpad through the hole. You should be looking straight in to the hole drilled. If an edge is present, it will liely contact the receiver extension and prevent it from collapsing. You can hog out the hole slightly with no ill effects on performance. Finally offer up the stock with the buttpad screwed in place to the shotgun and see if the stock fully collapses. If it hangs up, you need to remove the offending area. If it fits, finalize the installation by applying some blue Loctite 243 to the screws then snug them up. No retard strength is needed. These threaded holes will strip easily if you muscle it. Use your fingers to hole the buttpad in alignment to the stock as you tighten it. There is a small amount of wiggle room in the pad that will allow you to even out the alignment. Make sure everything still fits after you've tightened the screws. The rubber of the Limbsaver will often times have a dried out look to it. You can rub some lubricant on the rubber with a rag and it will return it to a deep black finish. Limbsaver claims you'll see a 70% reduction in perceived recoil with these pads. That figure is a little optimistic. Realistically I'd say you'll see a 40% reduction.

I finally got my hands on one of these Agency Arms rails to take a look at in person. One of the benefits of bringing in a lot of peoples builds is I get to check out all the new accessories without having to pay the price of admission. I've used a lot of Agency Arms components in other firearms, so I was hopeful for this rail to be one that was actually a win for a change. The rail itself is well made, it does have some significant set backs that aren't entirely Agency's fault, but more along the lines of working around the Benelli M4's ARGO system without making the rail too big. I'm not a huge fan of the need to disassemble the rail in order to access the ARGO system. This renders the gas system inaccessible in the field unless they happen to have brought a torx bit with them. Basically if something needs screws, this is an armorer level job now and not meant to be messed with in the field. Most of the MLOK sockets are unusable. Many of the sockets ride so close to the ARGO system that mounted items do not have the clearance to cam lock. I fixed this with a few railscales panels by profiling the cam lock and screw with a concave grinder shape. Thinning the cam permitted the cam to rotate and not make contact with the ARGO system. Still a pain in the ass. The rail was not removable with several of the railscales in place. The rail would hang up on the cam locks. So the end user would have to remove several of these panels or other devices mounted in order to remove the rail to service the ARGO system. Ergonomics are better than the Strike Industries or the Surefire M80 rails. Ergonomics sucks compared to the OEM handguard however. Even with premium rail covers like G10 railscales, the OEM wins hands down. With any rail, you're paying a weight penalty by equipping one. One must consider what benefits you're receiving by adding the part. With the step back in ergonomics and weight penalty you're facing, personally I would recommend using an IWC weapon light mount for your sling and weapon light needs. Placing sling mounts on your handguard is a step back in ergonomics since they tend to interfere with your hand placement. On this build we will be adding an IWC front sling/light mount as well to use the sling mount. If you have Trypophobia, you probably hate this. Reprofiled cam lock. Look at all that clearance to the ARGO plug!

Thank you sir.

I looked into black, I can get it done, but the machining needs to be changed by some microns to allow for the cerekote thickness. I am brainstorming this option. Will add about $5 to the cost for graphite black.

No, what you were saying to benelliwerks was that there is some magical kinetic energy that makes the bolt retract, extract and then feed the next round when placed against a properly stanced individual...all while firing rounds less powerful than the weapon was designed to cycle. There is no "malfunction" from firing weak ammo. A malfunction means something is wrong with the weapon. There is a failure to fire, failure to feed or failure to extract due to the firer using low pressure ammunition. And I'm not making you out to say anything, I'm telling you what the gun was designed for. What you use it for is your business, the OP asked what ammunition to avoid and you bring up stuff that is good to know and experiment with but not when you are familiarizing yourself with the weapon right off the bat. It clouds the waters when this should be a fairly straight forward answer to the question "What will not work reliably in my M4?" If it's designed for a specific pressure, use rounds with that pressure or higher. Simple.