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timb99

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Posts posted by timb99

  1. dooderman,

     

    We're just going to have to politely agree to disagree.

     

    Some of the stuff you said in your post is either:

     

    1. Just plain incorrect.

     

    or

     

    2. Long held shotgun shooter's firmly held beliefs that have been handed down over the years, and a lot of folks simply believe them because we've been told over and over that its true. Many of these firmly held beliefs have never been proven, and are simply not true.

     

    But I will give you this. You're 100% right when you say, "When one clay matters, physics and engineering sometimes will not go along with what people feel."

     

    But that doesn't mean the physics and engineering are wrong.

     

    Good shooting. If you're a master class sporting clays shooter, you're a better shot than I am, that's for sure!

     

    Keep it up!

     

    Tim

  2. Copper plated shot is most commonly (except in a few cases) really just chilled shot with a copper wash. Its not truly "plated."

     

    And it doesn't really do much of anything to help shot deformation or pattern better.

     

    A lot of people will claim it reduces feather draw into the meat of downed birds, but I have not seen any evidence that would lead me to believe it is remarkably better than plain old lead.

     

    In my field reloads, I use high antimony "magnum" shot from Remington or Lawrence, and it seems to work fine.

     

    I know several folks who like the "top notch" copper plated pheasant loads from Federal, Remington, Fiocchi, etc. but I think they like them mostly because they're high velocity loads. These do work well.

     

    Early season, just about anything will work. Late season where the shots are longer and the birds feathers are tougher, the heavy loads are recommended.

     

    JMHO

  3. dooderman,

     

    I'm an engineer. If you remove metal, you reduce strength. Simple as that. It must be done properly, to be sure, to assure it doesn't weaken the barrel to the point of failure.

     

    I don't mean to get into a big argument, but these modifications cannot reduce recoil. Backboring removes weight from the gun, and in all formulas for recoil, the weight of the gun is in it. Weight goes down, recoil goes up.

     

    If you add weight to your gun, I guarantee that will reduce recoil.

     

    I think the trigger job is the best way to improve the gun.

     

    And shooting more targets.

  4. I'd still do some pattern testing before you pull the trigger (pun intended) on barrel mods.

     

    I'd look into a freeware program called shotgun insight.

     

    Shoot some patterns on paper at your skeet distances, take some digital photos, and get detailed output for pattern density.

     

    Make sure you really need them. Barrel mods can never be undone.

     

    If you do decide to do it, I have heard (though I've never had it done myself) that Tom Wilkinson is one of the best.

     

    But like I said, I'm not convinced its necesary.

  5. Waste of money.

     

    Neither of these things will reduce recoil, because physics says they can't. Despite what a lot of gun magazine writers and the average joe a the club might say.

     

    Both modifications do indeed weaken the barrel.

     

    The other thing it probably does is to void your warranty from Benelli. They'll probably refuse to ever work on your gun again.

     

    Backboring "might" improve your patterns, but I'd pattern the gun first. You probably don't need any modification at all.

     

    Spend your money on targets, lessons, or as dooderman said, a good trigger job.

  6. If you're buying a gun mainly for trap shooting, get a trap gun. Neither of these guns are particularly well suited for trap shooting.

     

    If your budget is an issue, and if recoil is an issue, I'd recommend a used Remington 1100 Trap model.

  7. 1. Keep trying to shoot left-handed. Its the best solution in the long run. My daughter is right-handed and left eye dominant. She shoots left-handed. You may be well served by taking wingshooting lessons from someone. Look for an NSCA instructor in your area.

     

    2. If that doesn't work (and give it plenty of time) try shooting right-handed with a piece of scotch tape over your left lens so your left eye can't see the end of the barrel.

     

    3. There are other products, like sight blinders that attach to the side of the rib that prevents your left eye from seeing the bead, and special tube type beads that allow you to see the fiber optic bead only if your eye is directly lined up with the rib.

     

    Good luck.

  8. I'd go with a Remington 1187 Sportsman Youth. A little less costly than the other two, and the softest shooter of the three. And with a new stock and a new barrel, convertible to a full size gun when he grows out of it (don't know if the others will do that too, but probably.)

  9. First comment. DON'T LOOK AT THE BEADS! Both eyes should be focused on the target, whether thats a clay bird or a feathered bird! If your gun fits you and you keep your head on the stock, you shouldn't lose your alignment.

     

    I STRONGLY recommend wearing some form of eye protection when shooting, whether it be hunting or target shooting. At most target shooting ranges, its mandatory, and it should be that way. And when you're out hunting, there is plenty of "crap" out there that can get in your eyes. Protect them!

     

    When I hunt, I have a pair of Bolle Parole sunglasses with a prescription insert. I do NOT include my bifocal prescription in these lenses. Its of no use. You should be focused on the bird, and if you're taking the time to line up the beads when a bird flushes, well, that's not a very good recipe for success.

     

    When I shoot targets, I have a pair of Post-4 prescription shooting glases. Again, with these, I do NOT include my bifocal prescription, because, like hunting, its of no use. You should be focused, both eyes on the clay target.

  10. How much money you have available to spend on an O/U, and whether you want to buy new or used, somewhat dictates what you can buy.

     

    If you have $300 and really want an O/U, your options are very limited.

     

    On the other hand, if you have $10,000, you have no such limitations.

     

    Browning makes very, very nice guns. The gunshop guy is full of cr@p. With advice like that, I'd consider buying elsewhere.

     

    All of these companies make excellent O/U's:

     

    Browning

    Franchi

    Beretta

    SKB

    Winchester

    Ruger

    Remington

    Perazzi

    Zoli

    Krieghoff

    Caesar Guerini

    Renato Gamba

    Merkel

     

    There are others, I'm sure.

  11. I have been pretty lucky so far this year. With only a limited amount of time in the field and no dog I have gotten 3 pheasants so far..... 2 cocks and a hen.

     

    Where are you that you can shoot hens?

  12. Whether this is true or not, I don't know.

     

    In theory, for an inertial semi-auto to work, there needs to be some backwards movement of the entire gun, which is then stopped by your shoulder, and the inertia of the bolt continues backwards to cycle the action.

     

    As such, if the gun never moves, supposedly the bolt will never release to cycle the action.

     

    Like I said, I don't know if its true, and it kind of doesn't matter, since there are very few scenarios where this will be the case.

     

    Only one I can think of, and even this is a stretch.

     

    If you were turkey hunting with your back up against a tree or some other immovable object, and your shoulder was right against the tree, I suppose this could happen.

     

    But like I said, its a stretch.

     

    (The opposite is true, also, as evidenced by the light shooter noted above. If you "limp-shoulder" an inertial gun, there isn't enough resistance of the gun to backwards movement to get the action to cycle.)

  13. "The extended choketubes gives you a 25% longer parallel section than the flush mount choke does."

     

    Which is exactly wht I said they would say. And, like I said, that's sales propaganda. I'd like them to show conclusive unbiased third party evidence of that, but they won't go to that trouble (and why should they?)

     

    So I'll counter their propaganda with this propaganda:

     

    There is a British company called Teague that makes choke tubes that taper all the way to the end of the choke, that is, NO parallel section whatsoever, and they claim their chokes perform better than chokes WITH a parallel section. Teague claims their chokes give less recoil, less deformed pellets, greater pattern consistency, and greater maintained velocity.

     

    Who is right? Well, neither. The best choke is the one that gives your gun the best patterns with the ammo you're going to use.

     

    This is why I say there's no conclusive evidence that extended tubes do anything better than flush tubes, except they're easier to get in and out, and they look cool.

     

    And extended tubes DO cost more than flush tubes, but again, its only because they have more metal in them.

     

    http://www.teagueprecisionchokesltd.co.uk/choke_information.html

  14. Simply put, the new gun does not fit you the same way as the old Mossberg guns did.

     

    Pattern it, and see where it shoots.

     

    If it doesn't shoot where you think it shoots, or where you want it to shoot, you have three options.

     

    Learn to shoot where it shoots.

     

    Get it modified so that it shoots where you want it to shoot.

     

    Get a different gun.

     

    Off-the-shelf guns are made to fit everybody. Which means they fit almost nobody perfectly.

     

    Good luck.

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