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bambihunter

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Everything posted by bambihunter

  1. bambihunter

    Al

    Please just create one thread per subject. This is nearly identical to your other post. https://forums.benelliusa.com/topic/27555-sbe-rifled-barrel/
  2. Slug barrels (rifled) in general are much more rare than shot barrels, and even more so now that more and more states have allowed some form of rifle calibers. That said, I just did an advanced search on GunBroker.com and they have several: https://www.gunbroker.com/Semi-Auto-Shotguns/search?Keywords=benelli sbe 3 slug&Sort=13&PageSize=96 I have found that with patience, everything I have wanted to purchase was eventually for sale even some of the rare models with ~150 or less of them made. If you don't have an account, set one up (it's free). In case you don't know, any firearms will have to be shipped to an FFL in your state if purchased elsewhere. If you happen to be in an gun unfriendly state like CA, NY, etc, you should also check if the sellers ship there.
  3. SD, it looks like he hasn't signed in since Aug of '22. That's too bad. I remember liking his comments.
  4. Congrats bob3, I wondered if it was someone from here that bid/won it. I bid it to a point, but then let someone else have it. I don't need it that bad since I do nearly all my shotgun work with inertia guns.
  5. I agree completely. Though maybe not for everyone, I think the selectable pump/semi-auto action really sets the M3 above the rest. I only know of two others both by Franchi. Along with my two M3's, I've got a mint folding stocked Franchi SPAS-12. In my opinion, it is likely only popular due to its more iconic look and exposure by being featured in video games and movies. But functionally it is completely inferior in every way to the Benelli M3 (both of mine are also folding stock). That's not even counting the extremely unsafe paddle safety issue on the Franchi if they haven't been upgraded to cross bolt. I have been saving for quite a while to get a Franchi SPAS-15 as it largely fixed all the shortcomings and oddities of the SPAS-12 plus gave it a removable magazine. I have shot a box through the SPAS-15 and it and the M3 are very comparable in terms of ease of use, design, etc. However, the SPAS-15 is extremely rare and magazines are nearly unobtainium. The last two guns sold for $8,500 and mags are ~$350-500 each (5 round). I was honestly surprised they re-released the M3 but very glad even though I am not in the market for one. Does anyone know of any other selectable pump/semi-auto shotguns besides the three I mentioned? I need to get my SPAS-12 out and photo it with my M3T folder's.
  6. Never heard/seen one before. Where'd you get it?
  7. Generally I use Otis Dry Lube for easy to spray parts. It also has a spray straw to get it further back where you need it. To be honest, it was the first one I tried and I was impressed and have stuck with it. I like that they have a tube version so I can put it on smaller parts. I've heard good things from my military buddies about Nano Dry Lubricant. I know one guy that uses QWIK Dr Lubricant on his offshore fishing gear and his high dollar camera tripods and celestial tracker. It website states its functional temperature range unlike many of the others. As long as it's rated for the temp range you intend to use it in (and factoring the gun heating under repeated firing), most dry lubricants are fairly modern tech and should serve you well. I put it on fairly heavily on the rails and the part of the bolt that slides on it to prevent any galling. That aside, everything else gets a light spray. I generally pull the barrel and disassemble the bolt at the end of the particular season or if the gun gets rained on or dunked. It certainly doesn't really need it that often but I am really caring toward my guns and my original SBE I bought in ~94 and it holds a special place in my heart. I first tried the dry lube after my bolt action rifle froze solid one year elk hunting when it was below zero. Ever since, Rem-Oil has been relegated to the outside on guns that I don't shoot. It's never even had a tight bolt in cold weather once I switched to dry. BreakFree is a great product. Their synthetic oil is good to low temps as you have found. If I hadn't already switched over to dry, that would be my choice too. After I use the copious amount of Rem-Oil that I have that is likely what I'll use for outside use on safe queens.
  8. I agree with phil, I get most of my guns through GunBroker. I do this largely due to me liking mostly uncommon or out of production stuff. If you don't have one, create an account, then search for what you want. Be precise, and look at the results. Once it seems how you want it, tell it to Save Search and turn on notifications. Then, it does the work for you and emails you if something comes up. I have had things take a few years, but I'd have given up if not for that. Here's the search but includes SBE 3. You can limit further, but this should give you a start: https://www.gunbroker.com/Semi-Auto-Shotguns/search?Keywords=super black eagle&Sort=13&PageSize=96 Good luck on your quest.
  9. This one isn't an original camo, but looks very nice. This is not mine, just posting it as a courtesy. https://www.gunbroker.com/Item/1035562007
  10. Glad you figured it out Zach. Being inertia guns, they come apart easily and the bolts are so quick to clean. I have made a decent amount of money over the years buying "jam-o-matics" from fellow duck hunters. The bolt being dirty has only been the issue. Usually it is people using wet oil in their action or magazine. Shells get dropped, picked up, and put in the wet action and it sticks. A little bit of this and it gums up. After just doing a cleanup and proper DRY LUBE in the mag, and bolt rails, they are good to go usually. I've even sold them back to previous owner more than a couple of times. LOL
  11. On my safe queens, I put a little gun oil behind the choke just as added anti-rust protection. Guns that get shot, I have never before used choke lube in my 45+ years of shooting. If I were to, I'd use a dry lube like I use for the action and magazine.
  12. One thing that many people find appearing in the original H&K imported model is the ability to "ghost load" another round on the shell elevator. It was designed this way in order to be able to still reliably function if a round slipped by the magazine stop, but some people like the +1 to the limit it offers. There is a notch on the later guns that prevents this from happening. Some people JB Weld, epoxy, or actually weld/braze that notch. Common wisdom is that all H&K models can ghost load and Benelli USA versions cannot (even within the same model line). This is a very good indicator, but not always. My friend has a Benelli USA SBE with high rib, short lug barrel that can ghost load. He's had it since new so I know it is original. That is very rare. If the ghost load ability is important, don't go just off the importer, ask to see the bottom of the bolt. I've heard of some trickery where people will buy the H&K version and swap the bolt and then resell it. The H&K version generally brings a light premium over the later ones. I've found SBE II's to bring less yet. Below is a comparison picture I grifted previously. It shows the M2 vs the M1 bolt, but this also applies for SBE's as well as other models. The 20 gauge Montefeltro (H&K import) can also ghost load. Along with the rib, another thing to look for if it is all original is the length of the barrel lug. In the pic below of a couple of my H&K SBE's and barrels from both early and later versions, you can see the lug behind the ring that holds the barrel onto the magazine. Early ones it is shorter, later and ALL slug barrels have the longer lug which require either a modified fore end, or like the SBE below, I just bought one for SBEII to use with my slug barrel and would also work on all barrels, new or old. There really isn't any slop when using it, but I suppose theoretically it could end up looser. . Hope that helps.
  13. They have came down a bit from the peak during the pandemic, but that is around the price the last few I've seen sell went for.
  14. One clue that would narrow down to only a couple of models would be the barrel ring (behind the barrel nut and under the front of the forearm). If it is a real small ring, that rules out a lot of them and is indicative of the Montefeltro, original Black Eagle (non-Super) and I think another model or possibly two. Models like the M1, M2, M3, M4, and Super Black Eagle have a ring large enough an extension can be added to the magazine.
  15. The area in your top picture is not what holds the barrel firm. What should lock it solid to the frame is the forend nut shown below with the red arrow (mine is extended magazine). The yellow arrow is pointing to the action selector. It is easy to hold or bump it when handling or firing. You might check the spring in the action change in the front of the stock. If that spring is weak or broken, or it isn't locking into that detent in the front, then it will exhibit this behavior. One way to know this is the issue is if your forend is loose though I have heard (but not had it happen to) that forearm can still be locked and this happen and supposedly then the issue is further underneath that mechanism. Others can probably say for sure, but I know there are multiple changes between the early HK imported ones and the latest Gen 2 models. One that is apparent just by looking is the later ones have a positive stop ring around the barrel. I put a blue arrow on it in the picture below from NCSwamp13 of the new model, and green arrow on same spot on old version. Historically, on models such as the M1 > M2 and newer SBE's, the barrel lug is also longer in the later variants/models. The final picture with 3 barrels are actually SBE's, but is shows some of the differences on it such as change of rib height and I include it because it illustrates the longer lug of the newer models versus the original model at the bottom. I don't think there is anything wrong with your original barrel, but in a pinch, the newer style will work, but it will require modifications likely including either grinding that barrel ring on the barrel, or Dremel out the stock for that ring and likely the lug slot as well.
  16. Is this a new gun that doesn't work right, or has this issue developed on an used one? If not new, did it develop suddenly, or missing occasionally more as time went on? To make sure I follow.. If you completely load the magazine, and then cycle the action it works? Or, does it still mess up until you've had one successful firing? Do you have to press the cartridge release when the gun fires normally after the issue? When you get the click, have you ejected that round (after waiting a little bit in case of hang fire) and inspected it? Does it have an indentation from the firing pin on the primer? Any other scratches/gouges around the rim? What happens if you press the bolt release while holding it, then forcefully pushing it home? Another thought, is perhaps when dropping round in manually the extractor is keeping it from fully seating. Subsequent rounds from the magazine likely come up under the extractor instead of it having to go around the cartridge case head. I don't have a SBE3, but I have fixed quite a few SBE1's of fellow hunters. Most of the time in similar situations it has been rusty or gunked up recoil tube in the buttstock. One had a broken recoil spring. However, these weren't repeatable and always first round like yours. They were the opposite in fact. One other one which yours isn't doing, but I mention it as other places to check. On this one, the cartridge release internal was malfunctioning. Sometimes it wouldn't feed any rounds, other time it might let an extra round go through. The SBE1 would self-clean in that situation. He also did have it try to feed the entire magazine once which of course caused it to jam.
  17. One can look up the "whois" information for benelliusa.com and get some contact information, but it could just be the people that created the site and run the domain name registrars. I am in I.T. so a bit of a geek, but I often find that information helpful.
  18. Using GunBroker's Advanced Search, then limiting it to Completed Items is very useful for determining current value. Here's the most recent search which as of this post, it goes back to 11/8/23 on SOLD items. Be sure to look only at those prices. The ones that go unsold aren't really useful for determining a price. https://www.gunbroker.com/Semi-Auto-Shotguns/search/completed?Keywords=benelli m1&Timeframe=1&Sort=1&PageSize=96 I believe it should be an HK imported model. If they ever imported the M1's through Benelli USA, then most likely the HK versions are worth a little more. Personally, I think the M1 is a delightful entry (as in entering a room to clear hostiles, not as in cheapest model) and I have no idea why they generally sell for what they do. Most synthetic stocked version seem to hover right around the $1,000 mark and wood a bit more highly dependent on condition and quality of wood. If it has the winged tactical sights like shown on my M1 below, then that seems to add another $50. Below, that one is on the gun, and the standard entry barrel in picture below is not on gun. I can't recall if it is an official designation, but many people call the version with pistol grip stock, mag extension, and those sights on a short entry barrel the M1T (for tactical). Hope this helped some at least.
  19. @remarkable You may want to remove your email address now that he has seen/sent an email. Those web crawler engines will snatch up the address and distribute it to spammers. Love your contributions to the forum.
  20. To be fair, I am sure these were designed for their Turkish M4 clone knockoff that just happen to be close enough to fit most Benelli M4's.
  21. One can also Dremel out the forearm if cost is an issue. The SBE 1 has a shorter barrel lug. The SBE1 slug and all SBE2's have a longer barrel lug behind the barrel band (that holds the forearm on) as shown in my barrel collection picture (none for sale): I bought a SBE2 forearm when I bought the SBE2 slug barrel. But supposedly it doesn't make the forearm loose or rattle if one only cuts out what is needed. Note that the other differences with SBE1 vs SBE2 barrels is the rib height and angle as well as SBE1 uses Mobil chokes and the SBE2 use Crio chokes. The cannot be interchanged as the thread on Mobil are right at the muzzle whereas Crio the threads are ~3/4" down the barrel. The vent rib difference is clear in the picture above. I found it a little tough to go back and forth between them because of the different aiming point. An alternative might be to buy the SBE2 barrel and sell your SBE1 barrel. It'll likely go for close to the same price as the new one. You might even be able to sell the forearm if in good shape to cover the SBE2 forearm. Or, sell the SBE1 and get the SBE2 (or 3). A quality HK SBE1 usually sells slightly higher than the later "Benelli USA" SBE1's and all the SBE2's.
  22. I bought my original SBE (1) in 1994 and In my experience when the ammo is too light, it will eject the empty shell case, but the bolt won't go back far enough to release the next shell from the mag. You might consider shooting 1 1/8 oz DRAM, even the cheapo ammo has worked for me in all my SBE's, and other Benelli 3" guns without fail. Almost all 7/8 oz DRAM loads fail to cycle with any regularity in my SBE's and 1 oz DRAM I can get maybe 1 event like described per box of shells. The 3" chamber guns work fine with 1 oz and most of the time with the 7/8 oz. I am sure there is a point when the powder charge comes in to play, but for me, it has always been the mass of projectiles that made the difference. On one SBE I bought cheap from a buddy who is infamous for never cleaning his guns, the tube in the stock was all gunked up with oil and what looked like wheat chaff. Pulling the spring out, cleaning the tube thoroughly, and using dry lube (the only thing I use on mag and recoil tubes) and she ran great. The jams looked quite a bit like yours. In this case, the cause was friction.
  23. HughCA, you could verify visually which port type it is. Also, if it is a REALLY good deal, perhaps you could buy it, then buy a replacement barrel. I'm not sure if there'd be any demand on the 4 port due to its rarity to Benelli collectors (which I am one, but not interested in the barrel). Just a thought, but remember barrels often run for $500 so it'd have to be a really good deal.
  24. There's no benefit to oiling the stocks at all. In fact, if the finish is in good shape on the metal, I wouldn't hardly oil the outside. I only occasionally field strip and check and clean the bolt during the season. Then, I clean my SBE at the end of the seasons and only then do I give it a very LIGHT oil wipe. I put just enough on that it makes the matte metal shiny. Then, I lightly run a cloth wipe over it to where it looks nearly like it did before, but with a richer black color and not oily feeling whatsoever. These don't need the care that antique's or even blued guns do. As for repairing what you have, I really don't know. I have various coated Remington 700 stocks that have gotten sticky. I was able to peel that off with heat and patience. Then, I sent it in to the stock maker which was Bell & Carlson and they sprayed a conventional pattern on for a nominal fee. They MIGHT do work for other manufacturers. I'm not sure. Others might have some ideas, but only other thoughts are lightly sand it down to where it is no longer sticky. I can't imagine it going very deep.
  25. For the bolt guides, pretty much use whatever oil you want. I will say definitely do not use oil in the magazine. Use some type of dry spray lube. Though probably not quite as important, I also recommend the same for the recoil spring assembly in the stock. The reason is probably obvious, yet I see it all the time. People lube the magazine tube with copious amounts of oil. Then, while out hunting the drop a shell on the ground. They pick it up and pop it in without ever cleaning it. All that dust, lint, plant debris, etc. is now in your magazine and will gunk it up. I have made a lot of money from friends buying their non-functioning "jam-o-matics", cleaning these tubes out, and reselling them working perfectly.
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