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Posts posted by truckcop

  1. Dude, chill out.  I was being general about this and other websites, not specific to you.  Do a search here and other gun sites and you'll find a ton of such posts I mentioned.  I didn't say there's anything wrong with add-ons.  I've got plenty myself, along with boxes full of stuff I purchased, installed, and then removed.  More power to you (and me).  It keeps the industry alive.  That doesn't take away my original thought that many folks, (NOT MEANING TO POINT AT YOU SPECIFICALLY) purchase a firearm, or motorcycle, or car, or boat, or whatever, and then never, or hardly ever fire, ride, drive, etc, keep it in the safe, garage, slip, or wherever, and then wax moronic about scratches, rubs, and general wear and tear that comes with actual use.  Somebody here, not too long ago, had a complaint about some flaw in the camo-wrap finish on their gun after actually using it in the field.  Oh, the horror!!  Anyway, no slight intended.

  2. 5 hours ago, ClackClackBAM said:

    Many times. 

    Good.  Do it more then. 😀  I'm always amused when folks hang a thousand bucks of extra doo-dads off their new toy and then complain when it gets a scratch on the barrel or a rub mark on the receiver.

  3. I've got one on one of my competition guns.  The name (MatchSaverz) is a clue.  I've used it a number of times in man-on-man events to win when there's a quick reload needed upon the bolt locking back.  As something useful for a defense/fighting firearm, not so much.  But that's just one opinion.

  4. I've tried both.  They each worked just fine and I didn't have any issues arise with either.  The GGG machines a slot in the factory release mechanism that orients the button properly.  The Tac2 doesn't do that.  While I never had problems with either, personally I went with the round Nordic button (you have to do your own drill/tap for that one).  The factory mechanism's post is a press fit into the internal mechanism and can loosen with use or a direct hit on the release button.  If that happens, the rectangular release buttons on the Tac2 & GGG can kind of spin around and get out of position and interfere with your operation of the bolt.  If the release button is round and it spins around there's no similar ill effect.  That's my story anyway.

    • Upvote 1

  5. Had this happen on a 20ga. M2.  Yeah, I tried the alcohol wipe-down.  No joy.  You could take a fingernail and bite into the plastic.  I figured an improper mix/cure process on the material.  Called Benelli.  They sent me a new stock.

    • Upvote 3

  6. 1 hour ago, FJCowboy said:

    Forgot to ask...the thought of having a custom barrel had to come to mind, but wasn't sure where to start.  I did a bit of googling on it and most things I found were custom Trap/Skeet barrels so more in the 30+" range.  Who did you custom 14" barrel and was it a pain?  I assume pricey, but hopefully not too bad.  

    Yeah, this was back in the late 90's.  I initially went to Vang Comp who advertised doing his magic on Benelli barrels but the barrel itself was actually made by GG&G.  I sent them my factory 14" barrel, they fabricated a thicker barrel, threaded it for chokes and attached it to the barrel extension. (as an aside, I requested Benelli threading but they messed it up and threaded it for RemChokes - not that big a deal - I think they were fixated on 870's at the time)  It's my understanding they no longer build barrels.  I can't recall how much I paid.  If I had waited a few years, the FliteControl wads would basically negate the need for chokes.  I now have a cylinder bore choke in it and the Federal Tactical loads with the FliteControl wads pattern tighter than other pattern of choke/ammo that I've tried. 

    • Like 1

  7. Unless you're never going to shoot it and keep it in the safe forever, fugeddaboutit.  Dings, scratches, scrapes, and all other manner of cosmetic boo-boos are all part of a "working" gun.  The next time you lean it against your truck fender and it slides off onto the ground it will come away with worse than that.  Better yet, just take it outside right now, lean it against your vehicle and push it over into the dirt.  Pick it up and do the same on the other side.  Now everything's good.  Wipe if off, take it out and shoot a case of ammo through it.  It's like my wife's car.  Every time she gets a door-ding in some parking lot, she comes home wanting to take it to the body shop.  If we did that every time she gets a new ding we could have bought a new car.

  8. Factory barrel is too thin for standard choke threading.  Briley MAY be able to thread it for their thin-wall choke system. You'd have to send them the barrel for evaluation and that wouldn't be useful for the Salvo anyway. I had it done for a SBE barrel that had been muzzle-damaged and cut down to 19".  I wanted to have my 14" choked so I had a custom barrel made.  

  9. 14 hours ago, Retired said:

    Look up youtube videos to see what has to be done to take the barrel off, not exactly a quick change option.

    Double "huh?". There is no loctite involved in removal/installation of the barrel.  Other than fiddling with the two-piece handguard it is, pretty much, a quick change option.

  10. Search the forum for "Benelli click".  It's a long-time known issue with some guns. Various fixes have been tried with mixed results.  I fixed one of my guns with a swap of locking heads between guns.  Fixed another one by replacing the original blued locking head with a newer version chromed head.  It happens regardless of the loads;  heavy, light, slugs, buckshot, birdshot.  Benelli never really acknowledged a problem, putting the blame on dirty guns, ammunition, not holding the gun properly, et. al.  A couple of years ago they finally made a modification of the bolt on a couple of models that appears to have corrected the problem .  Unfortunately, the re-designed bolt group isn't backward compatible with older guns. 

  11. Is it 922r compliant?

    Sorry, I just couldn't help myself.  Gary, your post actually made me smile. 😀  Great looking wheels.  I didn't realize they had gone back to making motorcycles.  I just looked at their website.  Back in the day I had one of the first 4 cylinder Honda 750's.  I don't remember the 6-hole Benelli from those days.

  12. Since a "stovepipe" is generally indicative of an ejection problem, first, take a look at the ejector on the inside of the upper receiver.  It should be under spring tension and you should be able to push it backwards and it should return forward under the pressure of the spring.  You should be able to see the forward end of the ejector spring hooked on a tab on the leading edge of the ejector plate.

  13. A glimmer of hope for NP3:

    Robar Closure


    With the closing of the Robar Companies the question of accessing NP3©, NP3+© and ArmorLube© coatings has come up. Coating Technologies LLC (CTL) is the owner of these processes. We are currently exploring a methodology to help facilitate individual access to our finishes. This will take some time but we will announce availability to Distributors via electronic and printed media as quickly as we can.

    To be added to our contact list and receive an update as information becomes available, please send an email with your name, phone number and email address to [email protected].

    Please note: CTL does NOT have any gunsmithing services nor can we accept work on an individual basis.

    Thank you for your patience and we are looking forward to resuming our great relationship with our firearm owning friends.

    Robbie Barrkman

    • Like 1

  14. I'm going to break tradition here and probably ruffle some feathers on things like shotgun triggers, especially a combat-intended instrument such as the M4.  Leave the trigger alone.  Not to put too much of a fine point on it, a shotgun is a blunt instrument, not a precision sniper rifle.  I've shot uncountable numbers of shotgun-related training courses, a zillion rounds in academy training as an instructor, and a bazillion rounds at those little orange discs and feathered creatures that fly through the air.  Not once have I EVER thought gee, I wish I had a lighter/crisper/whatever's different trigger.  Never.  I have a safe full of Benellis of various stripes, including the M4, as well as Remingtons (mostly 870's), Brownings, an LC Smith that granddaddy owned, and probably a couple more that I can't think of right now.  I can't think of one reason to put another trigger into any of them (well, except for the 870, which requires a change of the entire trigger plate assembly if you want to switch to a left-handed safety).  And, I can think of a couple of reasons why not to.  Just do a search of aftermarket triggers for Benelli here and other places and you'll find all sorts of tales of woe about all manner of maladies after such installations.  I'd say, leave well enough alone.  But, hey, that's just me, a sampling of one. 😁  Let the flames begin!

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