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Everything posted by truckcop

  1. I'm almost 100% certain that the SBE 2 barrel will fit the SBE 1. You may have to replace the forearm with a 2 version. The forearm on my SBE 1 is from a 2 so the damaged barrel I got was almost certainly from a 2. If you're only finding SBE 2 barrels, that may be an option for you.
  2. How is it messed up? Depending on the damage, a decent gunsmith might be able to repair it. I purchased one cheap from someone whose muzzle had been blown out. Sent it to Briley, they cut off the damage portion, cleaned it up and installed their thin-walled chokes. SBE 1 barrels show up on GunBroker & Ebay but they're always very expensive.
  3. My personal thoughts only. Others, including the OP may not concur. For a HD shotgun load, Federal LE13200 (FliteControl) is as good as it gets. Lower recoil over the higher velocity rounds. At HD distances, you'll have a tighter pattern, i.e., more accurate shot and LESS likely to have an errant pellet fly hither and yon. Depending on the gun, within 30 feet and even beyond, you'll likely get a one-hole hit on target. Some will chime in that " . . . well if yer gonna have such a tight pattern you might as well shoot slugs . . . and, well, I'd rather have more of a spread in the pattern . . .blah, blah, blah". To those I say, fine, make your own choice. Overall, the shotgun for HD, in my view, has its own disadvantages and strengths but that's another discussion. My defensive shotguns, home or otherwise, are loaded as noted above.
  4. Sorry, SD, but you've either mis-spoken here or there's something I'm not understanding in your response. The first part of your that sentence, and I agree, in a "click" situation you hear the hammer fall because it has been reset. But then you immediately contradict that by saying the hammer is already lowered against the back of the bolt. If the hammer is already lowered against the back of the bolt, as in the case of the mechanism not resetting, you would get a mushy trigger and hear no click.
  5. I believe you're experiencing the well-known and maddeningly elusive to fix, "Benelli Click". Before proceeding, you should Google "Benelli Click" for a plethora of discussions of this very phenomenon. The short version: The when returning to battery after having been fired, the locking head is not fully rotating back into battery and thus not allowing the firing pin to to strike the primer on the shotgun shell. It's only a tiny bit of rotation of the locking head that hasn't fully completed but it's enough. While Benelli has always downplayed the issue, It has been enough of a problem universally that within the last couple of years they have re-designed the bolt/locking head mechanism to preclude this from happening on some of its current models. Have fun with your research.
  6. truckcop

    M1 stocks

    If, by "tactical stock" you mean the pistol grip full stock, the mounting hardware is different from the field guns. Yes it will fit as long as you have the proper hardware. The M1 did come in a wood furniture version. You're best bet is to keep an eye on Gunbroker, Ebay, and the like. The wood sets pop up on occasion. There's one set on Ebay right now if you've got more money than sense and don't mind paying about three fourths the worth of a good used M1. (500 buckaroos - not in this lifetime)
  7. One more question about how it's malfunctioning: After you fire the first shot and it feeds the second, when you pull the trigger is it a dead trigger, i.e., nothing happens, or does it go "click" like the hammer fell but nothing else happened?
  8. Possibly a defective run of the synthetic material. My 20 ga. M2 had the same issue with the butt stock. The forearm was just fine. It was almost like the material was slowly melting. No amount of cleaning it would help. Another manufacturer had a similar issue and it ended up being an improperly cured batch of parts. Benelli sent me a replacement stock for the M2. You might contact Benelli customer service. For mine they were quite helpful.
  9. truckcop

    SBE problem

    You should quit using that brand of ammo and continue using the ones that work. Also, when adding a question to a thread, it's advisable to take notice of the date of the thread. If the thread is old (like this 12 year old thread is) it's best to start a new thread rather than a necro-post. On old threads, if there were pictures or hot links, most of the time those are no longer available. It's best to start anew.
  10. Bummer. Didn't realize that Larry had passed away. RIP Larry.
  11. Let's think about this analytically. The magazine tube on a twelve gauge has a necessarily larger diameter than a twenty gauge, just as the barrels are different diameters, to accommodate the larger shotgun shell. Here's an illustration of the differences in diameter of shells, forearms (and, therefore, magazine tubes), and corresponding spacers. Please don't take this to be condescending. I gather from some of your questions that you may be new to shotguns so please take this in the gentle advise manner in which it was meant. 🙂
  12. No, they are not the same. While they may look similar, a 20 gauge forearm is narrower than the 12 gauge. They are NOT interchangeable.
  13. Yes, that's where they're supposed to be. They should have already been installed in the forearm from the factory. BTW, they're steel washers, not rubber o-rings. There are two flat washers and one that looks bent. The 4th one is the retaining washer with the ears that fit into the channels on either side of the forearm. One flat washer goes in first, the "bent" one next, then another flat one. The one with ears goes in last and holds the other ones in the forearm. In that picture, you're already seeing damage to the forearm where the magazine cap is coming in contact with it. The magazine cap should not come in contact with the forearm at all. I would not shoot that gun until the proper pieces parts are installed. I would highly doubt that it came that way from the factory. You said it was new but I'd take a look at who you purchased it from. Just sayin'.
  14. Before you do anything else, inspect the forearm. The spacers being referred to above are installed inside the forward opening of the forearm. They aren't seperately included in the package like the stock spacers/adjustment plates are. These spacers take up space between the rear of the barrel ring and the forward bearing surface of the forearm. They should have already been installed in the forearm. If those aren't present, when you install the barrel and forearm on the receiver, there will be an open space behind the barrel ring and in front of the bearing surface of the forearm. Putting that O-ring behind the magazine cap and in front of the barrel ring will not do anything to take up that space. The barrel ring will have no support at the rear and firing the gun with the barrel tightened in such a way could possibly damage the barrel ring, up to and including breaking it off the barrel. These are the spacers that should be installed in the forward opening of the forearm:
  15. truckcop

    M1 RMR

    An example: I have since installed the RMR using a modified Scalaworks RMR mount. The RMR attaches directly to the mount rather than a mount that's then attached to the rail, as above. That places the RMR much lower on the receiver.
  16. "Not sure why anyone would need a ghost ring on a shotgun anyway, but I'm sure someone on this forum will explain it to me!" OK, I'll try. A ghost ring is designed for a quick acquisition accurate shot at longer ranges than normal shotgun shot ranges such as turkey hunting and taking out dirtbags beyond grenade-throw ranges. The eye tends to automatically line up the front sight in the middle of the rear ring, making for a quicker shot. At least, that's the theory. While a ghost ring set obviously isn't optimal for clays shooting (you won't find pics of Kim Rhode shooting a GR-equipped O/U in the olympics), I've pounded thousands of orange discs over the years with my older M1 with GR sights. Since you're supposed to be looking at the bird with both eyes open and not the sights, I've never found the rear sight interfering with my ability to track the target. But hey, that's just me.
  17. While the comfortech stock with short recoil pad option would pretty much accomplish what you're going for, the comfortech stocks will not fit the older generation guns. There have been folks over the years do a modification of the original stock but that's even more complicated than the wood stock cut-down you already mentioned. Without some serious modifications, you're pretty much stuck with what you've got.
  18. Personally, I would NEVER use a tool to tighten an end cap on a shotgun. One technique I teach our academy recruits in removing the cap if it's too tight to loosen by hand is to place the butt of the shotgun on a hard surface, such as a table top, with the barrel pointed straight up. Grasp the barrel with one hand and pull it down, while at the same time, twisting the cap to loosen it. I can't remember a time when that has not worked. I have seen barrel rings broken off by someone applying a tool, such as channel locks, to tighten the cap down. I've used the reverse of the above to make sure the cap is snug but never use a tool to do so.
  19. As you've probably already found out, just cycling the action, as you might on something like a Remington 1100, will not load a round from the magazine into the chamber. The drop lever is useful when you want to load to "cruiser ready" (loaded magazine, no round chambered), or, under a competition scenario, you must start with the magazine loaded but no round chambered. Under either condition, merely cycling the action will not coax a round out of the magazine. The drop lever must be pressed first (or the trigger pressed - NOT recommended) in order to drop a round onto the carrier, then operate the action to chamber the round. The drop lever allows you to drop the first round onto the carrier. After that, merely cycling the action will load the round, saving you a step in getting the gun into firing position. One benefit of having that system is something you alluded to but isn't really a function of the drop lever. On the Benelli system, if you have a birdshot chambered but need a slug to fire immediately, you can operate the action unloading the chambered round. Doing this does not drop a round out of the magazine and onto the carrier. You can then load your slug directly into the ejection port while holding the bolt back, then allowing the bolt to close. When practiced diligently, you can do that in one smooth motion and it's much faster than loading the slug into the magazine, hitting the drop lever, then cycling the action.
  20. Please enlighten us. What, exactly, is a "slammer". Inquiring Benelli owners want to know.
  21. If you have a forend for a rifled barrel I can't understand why it won't fit with the rifled barrel. I'd call Benelli customer service. Something ain't right if you have a (supposed) rifled barrel forend that won't fit a rifled barrel. A "slug gun" is a "field" gun with a rifled barrel instead of a smoothbore barrel.
  22. The older HK imports with the one piece tube have different threads into the receiver than later versions and M2's. Me, I'd go with what I got there (I've got two of those older versions). RCI, the x-rail folks, used to make higher cap one-piece tubes for the older guns but I think they quit making them. You could check with them.
  23. Buy a rifled-barrel forend. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1438820B
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