truckcop

If it's like several others here, there's not much you can do to remedy the sticky stock. There seems to be a period in which the mixing/curing process of the polymer material was sub-optimal. My remedy was to call Benelli and describe the problem. They sent me a new stock. Did you buy it recently as a new gun or was it used? I would think by now newer guns would have had the problem fixed.

I shoot a RM05/9moa dot on one of my 3-gun M1's. I've got RM04/7moa RMR's on other guns. To my eye it's impossible to tell the difference in size between the two. There are a couple of issues with the dual illuminated models. Each issue has to do with ambient lighting. First, when shooting in direct, unobstructed mid-day sunlight, the dot flares a great deal. Second, when shooting from a covered/shady or darkened position out into a bright, sunlit area, the dot is almost invisible against something like a bright white painted steel target. I've taken care of the first problem with a black sharpie, inking over the light intake area. That works great in the outside scenarios since the ink is opaque enough to transmit sufficient dot-illuminating light even on a cloudy day. However, that fix exacerbates the second problem scenario shooting from a darkened area out into a bright light area. Since most of my competition stuff is out in the bright sun (Florida), the sharpie fix works like a charm to reduce the dot flare. But that's just me. Your choice will depend on the type of shooting you intend to do.

As I noted above, call Benelli. In my case they sent me a new stock.

Can't think of a reason why it would be doing that. It should work. Sounds silly, but try wiggling the muzzle end of the barrel back and forth while pulling back on it. Another: take the trigger housing and bolt assembly out and try to install the barrel. When doing that, look up inside the receiver to see if you can find the barrel extension coming in contact with something. I can't really think of what since there's not really anything in there to interfere with it. That's all I've got.

I don't have the cajones to shoot 3 1/2 in buckshot so no, I haven't seen that. Having said that, the question is: What do you mean by "trouble recycling"? Is it not ejecting? Not loading after ejection? Following round not being released from magazine? Do they cycle properly with other brands or different loads? If both guns are having trouble with that particular brand/load but work properly with others, that's a clue. Quit using that brand/load. I've got one gun that refuses to work with Rio shotgun shells. It works with everything else I run through it. I don't use Rio any more.

You tell us; what's the problem? What is it doing wrong? It feeds and extracts. What is it not doing that it should be doing?

I didn't have it on the M4 long enough to cause any damage. Installed it, tried it out, took it off. At the time, didn't notice any damage to the M4 rail. Since then I took the factory rail off and installed a Sidearmor sidesaddle/rail mount.

I only used the lowest Trijicon mount when I put mine on the M4. Too high for me. I shoot a lot of skeet and sporting clays so I prefer getting down low when shooting a shotgun, regardless of the type. I've installed low rails on a couple of M1's and the Trijicon low mount is still a bit too high. When Scalarworks came out with their first generation RMR mount that included a rail section, I got one of those and surgically removed the rail section and only installed the RMR portion. Very low, just right for my tastes. I shoot with standard field-type stocks on all my shotguns. No pistol grips or collapsible stocks.

After shooting thousands of rounds through my M1/M2's with RMR's mounted for 3-gun, shotgun-only competitions, and training (both giving and receiving), I can provide the following advise based on experience. Quick release of modern optics is overrated. Not once, in all this time of at least 12-15 years (including the early RMR's that had issues when mounted on handgun slides) I have never had a RMR go down on a shotgun necessitating its quick removal. I know that's only an example of maybe 5 out of all the mounted RMR's out there but it's still my experience. Re: cluttered co-witness sight picture: If your sight picture is cluttered up when using a co-witnessed RDS, IMHO, you're doing it wrong. While none of my SG red dots are co-witnessed with irons, they are on some of my rifles. When actually shooting for a purpose, I don't even notice the irons in my sight picture. That's because, when shooting with a RDS, your sight should be focused on the target. The red dot is superimposed on the target because you're shooting with both eyes open (should be, anyway) and not trying to focus on aligning the irons. The irons just disappear and you're looking at a target with a red dot on it. Again, that's me. (and how I train others)

You're not going to get much lower than the factory QR low-mount. It's sort-of QR. Easier than the standard mount. https://www.trijicon.com/products/details/ac32076 Their standard low-mount (non-QR) is a bit lower. https://www.trijicon.com/products/details/rm33 You're really limiting yourself by discounting the Scalarworks. But hey, that's just me sayin' that. I'm just some guy in the innerwebz.

Dang, that's a clean gun. Hard to say until you figure out what's actually happening. Unless something's put together way wrong, I don't see how it would be possible to have the magazine dump rounds completely out of the gun. Onto the carrier? Yes. Out of the gun? Hmmm. After shooting at a bird on this year's trip to SD, I thought I had reloaded but, in all the excitement, I hadn't. Next bird I got off one shot, then nuthin'. Oops, forgot to top it off. Make sure the release moves freely and isn't binding. Get some dummy rounds and manually take it through a bunch of firing cycles while looking closely at what's going on in there. Go to the range, your back yard, or your uncle's open field, load it up for real and light it up. A lot. Take someone with you to watch the gun closely. Or let them shoot it and you watch. Take note of what, if anything, happens. Report back.

That could be what's clanking around in the magazine tube. Otherwise, I got nuthin'. ?

Does it have a limiter plug installed? How many shells can you put in the magazine?

Yeah, I know. Didn't mean to imply you did. Just making a general "necropost" observation. And here I am perpetuating it. Oh well. On the other hand, if I had to, I'd go for one of these KaliCompliant rifles. Luckily, I'm not in Kali, try as they'd like to make us all subject to their nonsense and worse.

Even though this thread began over 8 years ago, and the OP hasn't posted anything else in that time, I'll respond to that: Yes, it can be uglier. I'll take a standard stocked MR1 over one of these every day of the week. But hey, that's just me.

Yes, this is normal although it shouldn't be an issue with the bolt fully closed. When the locking head is fully in battery, its tail comes in contact with the inertia spring. When the bolt is open, the locking head rotates and moves forward in the bolt creating the ability of the spring to move back and forth. If you take the bolt out of the gun, push the locking head back as if the gun is in battery. Shake it back and forth and I doubt you'll hear the spring moving about much. Release the locking head to its out-of-battery position, hold the locking head so it doesn't rattle, and do the shake. You should then hear the spring moving back and forth. Just the design of the system, nothing to fret over.

Funny how like-minded folks seem to have the same issues. Prior to my M2 stock issue, I had the Limbsaver issue. I purchased three pads for my Rem 870 wood stocks. All three started to go fairly quickly, i.e., sticking to the carpet in the safe (is there an echo in here? ?) I didn't shoot those guns much so it wasn't really a concern for a few years. I ended up buying new ones not realizing it was Limbsaver's issue and not storage problems on my part. A while after that I learned of their batch-mix issue leading to failure-to-cure-properly. I just let it go as a learning experience. And that experience lead to my calling Benelli as soon as I recognized the issue with their failure-to-cure batch. I'm sure that many others had the problem but rather than announce a universal fix they probably just waited to address the problem on an individual basis. Sort of like their failure to admit to "the Benelli click" as a real thing across the system until they finally came up with the re-designed bolt on a couple of the guns to alleviate that.

For the uses you specify (or anything else, for that matter), zero difference between the two in terms of performance. Comes down to personal preference on how they feel, balance, swing, etc.

Another possibility is to go to Ace Hardware or similar establishment and find an appropriately sized E-clip/c-clip/circlip. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Fasteners-Pins-Rings-Clips/Pin-Ring-Clip/E-Clip/N-5yc1vZc2d3Z1z0u5fsZ1z0ztde?storeSelection=

Based on the OP's description, the cap retaining pin isn't the culprit. The swivel stud on the magazine cap is held in place by a spring clip. Call Benelli and they may send you one. I don't see them listed in parts catalogs. If they don't have one to send you may have to go with an aftermarket swivel stud. If you're EXTREMELY lucky, yours may have fallen back into the magazine tube and is stuck in there. Remove your magazine spring and follower and the clip may fall out. Looks like these:

Next time my wife tells me I spend too much on guns I'm just going to refer her to this thread! ?

I'm confused. You're looking to replace a rifled barrel with a "SHOT" barrel, or are you looking for a SHORT barrel?

Expensive, but they have them in stock at Midwest Gun Works.

From the schematic, there's a retaining clip on the end holding everything together. I assume there's a groove in the end of the guide rod that the clip locks into. Look at it closely since the schematic doesn't really show what kind of clip it is. It might be a type of "C" clip that just pushes off, or it might be some sort of snap-ring that requires a special tool. Put the tail-end of the guide rod assembly down on a table and pull the spring downwards away from the retaining clip. That might give you a better look at what you're dealing with. Ian at Forgotten Weapons did a field strip on one of those a while back but didn't get into the guide rod assembly. Send him an email. He can almost certainly advise on disassembly of that part.

Some of that depends on the specific model, but; Trigger: It's a shotgun, not a precision sniper firearm. Suggest you stick with the OEM parts. But that's just me. Choke: For a defensive SG, stick with Cylinder or Improved Cylinder. But that's just me. Red Dot Advantage: Both eyes open, focus on target, quicker shots on target. . Period. That's NOT just me. That's a RDS fact of life. There's a reason that competition shooters separate iron-sight classes from classes with RDS's. Other bolt-ons: Sky's the limit, along with your wallet contents. Knock yourself out. Bolt release - Nordic (btjm). Safety - OEM (btjm). Charging handle - OEM Other stuff - look around on the forum. Every doo-dad, trinket, bolt-on, screw-on, glue-on, etc., has been tried here. If I were building one, I'd think about a light. But that's just me. ?