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Everything posted by truckcop

  1. Yes, but you'll need to drill/tap the receiver.
  2. For sporting clays, no. Even the TTI carrier isn't really needed for that. It's not like you're having to do speed reloads when shooting clays of any kind. The only thing that might be useful is a thicker or thinner recoil pad, depending on what you get with the gun and whether the LOP needs a slight adjustment.
  3. truckcop

    M1 super 90

    You can download one here: https://www.tngun.com/wp-content/uploads/Benelli-M1.pdf
  4. truckcop

    M2 carrier

    The "tactical" version has the standard carrier. I probably went through 7 or 8 shotgun courses over the years with the standard carrier and never got thumb bite during a course. The only time I ever had an issue with catching my thumb was when I was just farting around on my on at the range. Over the last few years I changed most of them out to Taran Tactical versions. Just because. If you use the proper technique, you shouldn't have any problem with the OEM version.
  5. truckcop

    M1 Super 90

    Yeah, I just assumed he meant magazine spring since he didn't mention taking the stock off. Probably should have clarified that.
  6. truckcop

    M1 Super 90

    You'll have to remove the magazine tube from the receiver. It will probably take some heating up at the interface to loosen up the thread locker. Those early M1's had a full-length, one-piece tube rather than a sectioned tube that came on later models.
  7. Could be one of the old "practical" guns that were marketed to competition shooters back when. It came with an extended magazine, 26 inch barrel with a large muzzle brake. Overall, it was looooong. I think they also put that muzzle brake on some regular "tactial" versions. The muzzle brake was basically an extended choke tube that was screwed into the barrel and threaded for installation of the brake. Without further info on the gun you're looking at, it's just speculation as to exactly what it is.
  8. First of all you need to make sure the pistol grip stock is designed for the M2 and not the M1. The interface between the stock and receiver is different between the two. Otherwise, just what do you mean " . . . it doesn't quite fit"? The attachment of the two types of stocks are different. The pistol grip stock ordinarily uses a sling plate that goes through a slot in the stock and the mounting lug on the back of the recoil spring tube goes through the hole in the middle of the plate. The standard stocks use a different type of locking plate to secure the stock with the lug still going through a hole in the middle. There may be differences in the stock retaining screw between the comfort tech stock and the pistol grip stock. I've removed a number of pistol grip stocks and replaced them with field stocks over the years but I don't remember any issues with mounting. But those were primarily the older M1 guns and not the newer M2's.
  9. Snap rings in the forearm?? What snap rings? There should be two "flat" washers and one spring washer (not flat - sort of bent), and one elastic ring (your "snap ring"?) that's "C" shaped with little wings that fit into recesses in the forearm. They should go into the front end of the forearm in this order: flat, spring, flat, elastic. Once installed on the gun there's no way for them to "come out" of the forearm. The barrel ring pushes against them and the magazine cap holds it all in place. Exactly how did they come out??
  10. The GGG pad comes with a modified latch so you don't have to do your own drilling/tapping. There's also TAC2 that's a bit cheaper. http://www.tac2.com/index.php?template=bbr I prefer the round shape of the Nordic but I have both the GGG and TAC2 and they work just fine.
  11. Ahh, the dreaded "benelli click" rears its ugly head for the bazillionth time. Google "benelli click" and you'll find a plethora of causes/remedies/solutions/frustrations/foul language. 🤣 The issue: locking head not rotating completely into battery when the bolt goes forward. Plethora of suspected causes noted on the interwebz: weak recoil spring, dirty firearm, too much lubrication, not enough lubrication, low-power loads, not holding gun firmly enough, riding the bolt forward when loading, gun not broken in, worn or out-of-spec parts, and on, and on, and on. Benelli has always said it wasn't a gun problem. Their line has always been that the problem was shooter-induced by riding the bolt forward when initially loading the chamber, thus not allowing the full force of the recoil spring to send the bolt forward and fully rotate the locking head into battery. While that can be the cause in some cases, it isn't in all, and, they re-designed the bolt in the newer SBE-3 by adding what they call the "Easy Locking System" that has potentially fixed the problem. I can personally attest to numerous times the "click" has occurred on several of my M1's/M2's/SBE over the years on second or third shots when the gun cycled properly up to that point. The first or second round will fire but a subsequent round will not. I even lost a police olympics shotgun match because of it. I've even solved the issue on some of those guns in different ways. I've replaced the stock recoil spring/tube assembly with the SureCycle assembly in a couple of guns. On two others, I switched the locking heads between the guns. That solved the problem I was having in one gun and the other gun continued to operate without incident. On another gun I replaced the older blued locking head with a chrome-plated one. Problem solved in that gun. Who knows what the basic underlying problem really is? I suspect that it's the tolerances between the locking head and the barrel extension where the lugs rotate into place but I'm just guessing like everyone else. Unfortunately, the redesigned bolts aren't backwards compatible with older guns.
  12. The thing you'll have to deal with when switching from the pistol grip stock to the field stock is the lock plate that attaches the stock to the recoil tube. The pistol grip stocks on the older M1's have a lock plate that extends through the stock and doubles as a sling plate on each side of the stock. The field stock lock plate is different so you'll also have to make sure you get the proper lock plate in order to attach the stock to the receiver. You could also try to convince the fuddy-duddy's at BSA that a pistol grip by itself doesn't necessarily indicate "tactical". A number of the newer model Benellis, including many of their camo hunting models utilize the pistol grip stock that aren't "tactical" models. And, in fact, a pistol gripped stock can help a smaller-statured person better control recoil.
  13. Just FYI, the older Browning A5's were NOT inertia-driven as with the Benelli. They were long-recoil operating systems where the bolt and barrel are locked together and both move rearward upon firing. At the end of movement to the rear, they unlock with the barrel moving forward, ejecting the spent case and, if there's one in the magazine, the bolt then goes forward, loading the following round. French but with English subtitles: The newer A5's that have been recently been introduced do use a version of the inertia system. The older Belgian versions, not.
  14. Nordic is the way to go, regardless of whether it covers the flag.
  15. Info from another website: Benelli SL-80 Notes: Introduced in 1978 to replace the old Benelli Autoloader, the SL-80 (also known as the 121 SL-80) is a range of shotguns which was designed for civilian, police, and military work. The SL-80 and its later versions are available in a variety of finishes, construction materials, and degrees of fanciness, from basic bluing to versions which are built using the finest quality of walnut root and engraving with gold inlays and plating. At their heart, however, all members of the SL-80 series are semiautomatic recoil-operated shotguns, stressed to fire both 2.75-inch and 3-inch shells with a variety of different special shells and loadings (though for best results, Benelli recommends that only standard loadings be used in the series). The SL-80 series is well known for the ability of its semiautomatic action to cycle very quickly while producing lower levels of recoil than comparable shotguns – though they still kick a bit hard compared to modern gas-operated semiautomatic shotguns. A shotgun expert named John Satterwhite once took an SL-80 with an 8-round extended magazine, loaded an additional round in the chamber, and then fired at a target so fast he emptied the gun before the first expended shell hit the ground – and still attained a decent amount of hits on the target! In fact, the use of recoil operation instead of gas allows the use of extended tubular magazines of almost any length (even ridiculous lengths extending beyond the muzzle of the gun, which has been done as an experiment), without any significant engineering problems. The basic civilian SL-80 is dark walnut-stocked with a semi-pistol-grip wrist and no recoil pad for the butt. It’s a basic sort of shotgun with a blued finish, steel metalwork, and barrels of barrels of 23.625, 25.625, or 27.5 inches, and fixed chokes which are normally Modified, Cylinder, or Improved Cylinder (though others were available upon request). Normal sights consisted of a ventilated rib above the barrel with a bead at the front of the rib, but rifle-type sights were available upon request. Standard magazines held five rounds, but this could be made smaller (depending upon the regulations of the country of the buyer) by use of plugs, and extended magazines could easily be mounted as noted earlier. There are several civilian variants of the SL-80, such as the Caccia hunting model, which primarily differs in the variety of finishes available, the addition of a recoil pad and sling swivels, and the different types of sights and ribs which could be mounted. The Special 80 was also basically identical to the standard SL-80, but was lighter due to the use of the light alloy Ergal for the receiver housing instead of steel. A Trap version was also built, which was heavier, used only a 27.5-inch barrel, a wider sighting rib with day-glo plastic front bead, and came only with a fixed choke of Improved Cylinder. A Skeet version was also built; the SL-80 Skeet came in a variety of finishes and fanciness, a 25.625-inch barrel, a wide sighting rib, and threading for variable choke tubes. A Super 80 Skeet was also produced, with the Ergal receiver. A single 20-gauge variant, the 201 SL-80, was produced; this was offered only with a 25.625-inch barrel, fixed Improved Cylinder choke, and simple notch and bead sights instead of a sighting rib. Finally, a specialized slug model was built; this version has a 21.625-inch non-rifled barrel, fully-adjustable rifle-type sights, fixed Cylindrical choke, a stock with a true pistol grip, and a rubber recoil pad on the stock. Several military and police versions of the SL-80 series were also produced, called the 121 M-1 series. The basic 121 M-1 uses a weatherproofed walnut stock with a semi-pistol grip and a standard extended magazine; the steel metalwork is blued and the stock finished so that both are almost black in appearance. The stock also includes a ventilated rubber recoil pad which is thicker than those used by civilian SL-80s equipped with recoil pads. The magazine includes a barrel brace to further strengthen the gun. The 19.75-inch barrel has a fixed Cylindrical choke. Sights are rifle-type, with the rear sight being fully adjustable and the front sight having a florescent white insert. The early 121 M-1s were unable to cycle shells without firing them; most, however, have a shutoff switch which allows manual loading and unloading of the chamber. The 121 M-1 is able to fire virtually any sort of 2.75-inch or 3-inch shell, including round types which semiautomatic shotguns normally find difficult to use, such as riot-control munitions, light-propellant loads, “hot” loads, and other wildcat combinations of propellant and/or pellets (and of course, a variety of slug types). Unfortunately, the very long recoil spring of the SL-80 series prevents the use of the folding stocks the military and police like so much, but Benelli would supply the 121 M-1 with a Choate Zytel synthetic stock and fore-end, which includes a true pistol grip instead of the semi-pistol grip wrist of the standard 121 M-1 as well as a thick ventilated rubber recoil pad. (This stock can also be put on civilian SL-80s, but it was not done by Benelli.) Production of the SL-80 series ended in 1986; the civilian versions were replaced by a variety of more specialized shotguns (both in grade and use), and the military and police versions were largely replaced by the M-1 and M-3 Super 90 versions (and later by other models).
  16. Here's my take after years of clays shooting. There's a hierarchy of clay-sports shooters. At the "top", and most insufferable lot of the bunch, are the trap shooters. Unless you have seven-plus thousand dollar engraved, gold inlaid over/under, you're not worthy. They look askance at us philistines who show up with semi-autos with shorter barrels that spit out empty cases all over the place. It's a "distraction" for them to have other shooter's empty cases flying through the air and then, possibly stepping on one while going to the next station. Semi-auto shooters usually have to use higher power factory ammo to ensure reliable function. They're a lot louder than the super-duper, downloaded hand loads of the O/U crowd. Their wads barely make it out the muzzle but they're so much quieter. And you really want to get the stink-eye from them? Start having malfunctions with your semi. (only partially tongue-in-cheek)
  17. First time in the new digs. Wasn't sure it was even the right place. Thought maybe somebody hacked me or the site or something. 🙂
  18. I drilled & tapped a M1 receiver for a RDS so it is possible to mount a rail. As noted in the thread, I did run a bead of JB Weld on the bottom of the rail as an added precaution. That may be a necessity if you're mounting a full-sized scope. I doubt I really needed to do it for the RMR. https://forums.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/28632-Red-Dot-Sight-For-An-M1
  19. That mount? Waaaayyy too high for a shotgun, IMHO. Larue, MI, or even the Aimpoint low-mount would be a much, much better choice. Position is pretty much shooter's choice. I prefer more to the rear myself, but that's just me. It's easy to move around (although, in reality, there's not that much real estate you're dealing with there) so try it in different positions yourself. You're the one that's going to be using it. Put it where you like it.
  20. Leave it as is. But that's just me. You want it pristine, put it in a foam-filled pellican case, lock it in the safe and never take it out. I have been known to have one of these on my work bench. It's adequate. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/touch-up-pens/presto-gun-blue-pen-prod24775.aspx
  21. Well, here's the obligatory "mine shoots it just fine" response. Now that that's out of the way, that's just about the usual way these things go. Mine has a bazillion and a half rounds of a variety of types (high-power/low-power/in-between-power, slugs/buck/bird) through it so that may be why mine cycles it. I don't really remember what I started out with so I don't recall any initial cycling issues. It won't hurt (much) to do the full-power thing initially and then try some more low-recoil stuff. I prefer that myself since, even though it's all Federal with the Flite Control wad, I find that it patterns much better than the higher power stuff.
  22. Old post from 2003 on the forum. Try it out: Just a little FYI for Legacy owners. Incase you could not figure out how to remove the plug, like myself. There is not one mention of a plug or how to remove it in the owners manual. I kind of accidentally found how to remove it from toying around with it. Step 1. Put safety on and keep gun pointed in a safe direction, make sure chamber and magazine are clear of all ammo. Step 2. Remove magazine cap only, keep barrel assembly on gun. Step 3. While holding barrel on gun load at least three shells into magazine and pull out the plug that should now be protruding out the magazine tube. Step 4. Replace magazine cap. That's it.
  23. It's unclear what part you're asking about. The part you linked to is the carrier latch. There's a pin that holds the carrier latch in the receiver that you can order. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/740510G If, by chance, you're talking about the "button" that protrudes through the receiver that you press on, no, you can't order that separately. That piece is press-fit into the latch body. If you're talking about something else, you need to clarify.
  24. "I'm also looking for a top rail for a future red dot sight. I see that GG&G's rail is highly rated...is there a better choice?" Scalarworks Sync for RMR or Aimpoint T1/2 https://scalarworks.com/optic-mounts/
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