truckcop

Your description needs a bit more as it is unclear what you mean by " . . . the shell stays in line with the chamber . . . " Is the spent casing being extracted from the chamber and not ejecting, or does the spent casing remain in the chamber? If it is being extracted from the chamber then there's possibly an issue with the ejector. If it stays in the chamber then the first thing to look at is the extractor. In addition, is it happening all the time or just once in a while?

Suggest that you actually try it out with a number of different loads. Semi-auto shotguns are notoriously inconsistent in how they operate with different loads. I've had M2's that operate perfectly regardless of the load and M2's that were finicky. It's the same with patterning. Shoot your gun with a variety of loads including "low load" shells. If it works, carry on. If not, either change loads or fiddle with pieces-parts. No sense in spending money up front for additional pieces-parts if it will work without having to do that.

Oh, for crying out loud! art950, you have responded to a post that is over 13 years old and the poster you responded to hasn't visited the site since one day after his post. The last post to this thread was 8 years ago. Are you familiar with the term "necropost"? "A necropost is a post on an "old, abandoned thread that has been considered 'dead' for a while...that no longer serves any purpose but is bumped back up to the top of the forums by someone posting in it." Necroposting is seen as a form of spam and clogs up the forums with old and unneeded topics." And now, you've made me do it too. ADMIN: could you please lock this thread???

If it's happening with the bolt locked back the rattle will be the inertia spring behind the locking head within the bolt body. When the bolt is in battery, the locking head is pushed back against the spring. When locked back, the inertia spring is free to move back and forth. Not sure what it would be if the bolt is forward.

Go to Benelli first. Replacements on your own dime are not cheap.

Yep, had a friend break two on his original SBE. Last replacement was the newer stamped steel riveted version. He hasn't broken it since. He was mostly shooting geese with 3 inch mags. My older M1's still have the cast version. So far, so good on them.

Oh, the possibilities. (not enough info - happens all the time? once in a while? All ammo? Just one type? Evidence of firing pin strike on case? None such? Had the gun since new? Just picked it up at the pawn shop?) As a start: Ammo - if you're using one type of ammo, try others to see if results are same. If not, stick with the ammo that works. Dirty firing pin/channel - remove the bolt, disassemble, clean, reassemble. (no lube on firing pin) Worn/broken firing pin tip - replace firing pin Light hammer strikes - Dirty lower - clean the lower Previous owner dicked around with springs to try and lessen trigger pull weight - good luck with that one. Report back results. ?

Assuming you're asking about the "item number", as Benelli calls it on their list of firearms models. I doubt you'll find anything on those 90's HK imports. Benelli USA probably doesn't have records of those guns. You might do an inquiry with Benelli Italy by the serial number. They may have what you're looking for. I've got a couple of old manuals from back then but they don't indicate "item numbers", only model designations, i.e., Super Black Eagle, M1 Super 90, etc. Just curious. Why?

All semi-auto shotguns (yes, even Benelli) can be finicky about the ammo it likes. It's like Forrest Gump's mama said, " . . . you never know what you're gonna get." There are a plethora of threads here from folks who have issues with their Benelli (fill in the blank) not reliably cycling along with a plethora of different answers about what works and what doesn't. You will find that the Federal Grand is or isn't an okay decision when you actually take it out and shoot it. I've got M1/2's and 4's and each version has different loads they just don't like and sometimes it isn't consistent between different guns of the same model. After much trial and error, I've found loads that are consistent across the board for MY guns. You're dealing with one gun. Shoot what you got there. It will either work or it won't. If it works for you, all the better and buy more. If it's inconsistent, move on to something else.

"Disappointing that the article nor the display carton mention use of Federal’s Flitecontrol wad. That makes such a significant difference in pattern and shot consistency in my own testing. " According to another article it does not use the FliteControl wad. It uses their "Triple Plus Wad System".

Benelli does have a history of changing things up like that and folks not realizing it until they try to fit something that don't really fit any more., i.e., mag tube threads, forearm design, barrel configurations, etc.

If the barrel is cut off, that really sucks for the dealer. Someone like Briley might be able to make a custom length choke but that would probably cost as much as a used barrel.

For that last check, close the bolt fully and run a dowel down the muzzle and check the barrel length. Is it whole number, i.e., 21", 26", etc., or is it 25 & 3/4, 27 & 7/8. Might give you a clue. I need to go to sleep now.

One more errant midnight thought: Possible muzzle damage that caused someone to hack off the last quarter inch or so at the muzzle? Just spitballin'. The end of that vent rib doesn't look quite right in the pics. Might just be the lighting or camera angle.

1988 with a vent-rib? Haven't even seen one of those. My first M1 Super 90 from the mid 90's was a military/police version with a fixed choke. Perhaps the field versions from back in that era were also fixed choke, in which case, someone may have attempted to thread this barrel and ended up doing it badly. I have no idea but it's just a thought. Does the muzzle end of the barrel flare out ever-so slightly? That's an indication that it was originally made for interchangeable chokes. My first, fixed choke barrels don't have that slight flare at the muzzle and were unsuitable for aftermarket choke-threading, even trying Briley's thin-walled chokes. Sent one of the barrels to them and they sent it back saying it was a no-go for threading. Not enough material at the muzzle. Are there any markings on the barrel back near the receiver that specify a choke?

look through the trigger pin hole and see where the mis-match is with the bushing. You might just need to give the rear of the trigger guard and slight push forward and then up into the receiver

Flat portion of the spring should definitely protrude into the bushing through that slot. Give a little tap, maybe?

Great minds think alike ??

That spring retains the pin by catching on one of the grooves in the pin. It's just above the safety button, on one side or the other.

Re: Taran Carrier (lifter, elevator, whatever) I've put TTI's carrier in several of my guns and was going to do it on my M4. However, like you, it hasn't bitten me yet. The pic below shows why (IMHO). Left is M1/2(I can't remember which) with a TTI. Right is M1/2 with factory carrier. Middle is the M4. The factory M4 extends further into the loading port and the shape of the tip is different than that of the factory M1/2. The M1/2 will definitely grab your thumb during a hurried standard reload. There's not as much room between the end of the M4's carrier and the front of the receiver so the thumb-bite, I've found, is much less likely. Hence, I didn't see the need to change it out. But that's just me.

Dude, chill out. I was being general about this and other websites, not specific to you. Do a search here and other gun sites and you'll find a ton of such posts I mentioned. I didn't say there's anything wrong with add-ons. I've got plenty myself, along with boxes full of stuff I purchased, installed, and then removed. More power to you (and me). It keeps the industry alive. That doesn't take away my original thought that many folks, (NOT MEANING TO POINT AT YOU SPECIFICALLY) purchase a firearm, or motorcycle, or car, or boat, or whatever, and then never, or hardly ever fire, ride, drive, etc, keep it in the safe, garage, slip, or wherever, and then wax moronic about scratches, rubs, and general wear and tear that comes with actual use. Somebody here, not too long ago, had a complaint about some flaw in the camo-wrap finish on their gun after actually using it in the field. Oh, the horror!! Anyway, no slight intended.

Good. Do it more then. ? I'm always amused when folks hang a thousand bucks of extra doo-dads off their new toy and then complain when it gets a scratch on the barrel or a rub mark on the receiver.

What else can you do to it? Have you tried actually shooting it? Just a bit?

I've got one on one of my competition guns. The name (MatchSaverz) is a clue. I've used it a number of times in man-on-man events to win when there's a quick reload needed upon the bolt locking back. As something useful for a defense/fighting firearm, not so much. But that's just one opinion.

Yes, HK was doing the importing at least into the 90's. Use the pics if needed. They've been out there for several years. They even popped up on a Google search I did a while back.