truckcop

There were at least three different combinations of magazine tube/barrel/forend and some are not compatible with others. There's an old thread somewhere about some of the differences.

Looks like a garden variety older HK import M1 barrel. It has the short barrel-ring lug and the extension is the same as the M1 below. Top- M2 Bottom- M1 M1 on top - One of my old HK imports.

Top to bottom: GGG, Taran, GGG, Tac2 Nordic round

I've tried both. They each worked just fine and I didn't have any issues arise with either. The GGG machines a slot in the factory release mechanism that orients the button properly. The Tac2 doesn't do that. While I never had problems with either, personally I went with the round Nordic button (you have to do your own drill/tap for that one). The factory mechanism's post is a press fit into the internal mechanism and can loosen with use or a direct hit on the release button. If that happens, the rectangular release buttons on the Tac2 & GGG can kind of spin around and get out of position and interfere with your operation of the bolt. If the release button is round and it spins around there's no similar ill effect. That's my story anyway.

Had this happen on a 20ga. M2. Yeah, I tried the alcohol wipe-down. No joy. You could take a fingernail and bite into the plastic. I figured an improper mix/cure process on the material. Called Benelli. They sent me a new stock.

Yeah, this was back in the late 90's. I initially went to Vang Comp who advertised doing his magic on Benelli barrels but the barrel itself was actually made by GG&G. I sent them my factory 14" barrel, they fabricated a thicker barrel, threaded it for chokes and attached it to the barrel extension. (as an aside, I requested Benelli threading but they messed it up and threaded it for RemChokes - not that big a deal - I think they were fixated on 870's at the time) It's my understanding they no longer build barrels. I can't recall how much I paid. If I had waited a few years, the FliteControl wads would basically negate the need for chokes. I now have a cylinder bore choke in it and the Federal Tactical loads with the FliteControl wads pattern tighter than other pattern of choke/ammo that I've tried.

Unless you're never going to shoot it and keep it in the safe forever, fugeddaboutit. Dings, scratches, scrapes, and all other manner of cosmetic boo-boos are all part of a "working" gun. The next time you lean it against your truck fender and it slides off onto the ground it will come away with worse than that. Better yet, just take it outside right now, lean it against your vehicle and push it over into the dirt. Pick it up and do the same on the other side. Now everything's good. Wipe if off, take it out and shoot a case of ammo through it. It's like my wife's car. Every time she gets a door-ding in some parking lot, she comes home wanting to take it to the body shop. If we did that every time she gets a new ding we could have bought a new car.

Factory barrel is too thin for standard choke threading. Briley MAY be able to thread it for their thin-wall choke system. You'd have to send them the barrel for evaluation and that wouldn't be useful for the Salvo anyway. I had it done for a SBE barrel that had been muzzle-damaged and cut down to 19". I wanted to have my 14" choked so I had a custom barrel made.

Double "huh?". There is no loctite involved in removal/installation of the barrel. Other than fiddling with the two-piece handguard it is, pretty much, a quick change option.

Fixed means it's integral to the barrel, non-interchangeable.

Search the forum for "Benelli click". It's a long-time known issue with some guns. Various fixes have been tried with mixed results. I fixed one of my guns with a swap of locking heads between guns. Fixed another one by replacing the original blued locking head with a newer version chromed head. It happens regardless of the loads; heavy, light, slugs, buckshot, birdshot. Benelli never really acknowledged a problem, putting the blame on dirty guns, ammunition, not holding the gun properly, et. al. A couple of years ago they finally made a modification of the bolt on a couple of models that appears to have corrected the problem . Unfortunately, the re-designed bolt group isn't backward compatible with older guns.

Movie Prop http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/Alien_Nation

Man, 15 years ago I'd have jumped all over this. Now, at my age, the cost/benefit analysis just doesn't compute. Dang it!

Magazine limiter plug installed??

Is it 922r compliant? Sorry, I just couldn't help myself. Gary, your post actually made me smile. ? Great looking wheels. I didn't realize they had gone back to making motorcycles. I just looked at their website. Back in the day I had one of the first 4 cylinder Honda 750's. I don't remember the 6-hole Benelli from those days.

Have you tried to find a used barrel? Gunbroker, local gunsmith possibly. Or even try for used gun of the same vintage as yours.

Since a "stovepipe" is generally indicative of an ejection problem, first, take a look at the ejector on the inside of the upper receiver. It should be under spring tension and you should be able to push it backwards and it should return forward under the pressure of the spring. You should be able to see the forward end of the ejector spring hooked on a tab on the leading edge of the ejector plate.

A glimmer of hope for NP3: Robar Closure ATTENTION GUN OWNERS: With the closing of the Robar Companies the question of accessing NP3©, NP3+© and ArmorLube© coatings has come up. Coating Technologies LLC (CTL) is the owner of these processes. We are currently exploring a methodology to help facilitate individual access to our finishes. This will take some time but we will announce availability to Distributors via electronic and printed media as quickly as we can. To be added to our contact list and receive an update as information becomes available, please send an email with your name, phone number and email address to [email protected]. Please note: CTL does NOT have any gunsmithing services nor can we accept work on an individual basis. Thank you for your patience and we are looking forward to resuming our great relationship with our firearm owning friends. Robbie Barrkman CEO

I'm going to break tradition here and probably ruffle some feathers on things like shotgun triggers, especially a combat-intended instrument such as the M4. Leave the trigger alone. Not to put too much of a fine point on it, a shotgun is a blunt instrument, not a precision sniper rifle. I've shot uncountable numbers of shotgun-related training courses, a zillion rounds in academy training as an instructor, and a bazillion rounds at those little orange discs and feathered creatures that fly through the air. Not once have I EVER thought gee, I wish I had a lighter/crisper/whatever's different trigger. Never. I have a safe full of Benellis of various stripes, including the M4, as well as Remingtons (mostly 870's), Brownings, an LC Smith that granddaddy owned, and probably a couple more that I can't think of right now. I can't think of one reason to put another trigger into any of them (well, except for the 870, which requires a change of the entire trigger plate assembly if you want to switch to a left-handed safety). And, I can think of a couple of reasons why not to. Just do a search of aftermarket triggers for Benelli here and other places and you'll find all sorts of tales of woe about all manner of maladies after such installations. I'd say, leave well enough alone. But, hey, that's just me, a sampling of one. ? Let the flames begin!

Me: Doctor, it hurts when I do this! Doctor: Well, don't do that! ?? (I'm so sorry, I just couldn't help myself. Someone had to say it.)

I'm almost 100% certain that the SBE 2 barrel will fit the SBE 1. You may have to replace the forearm with a 2 version. The forearm on my SBE 1 is from a 2 so the damaged barrel I got was almost certainly from a 2. If you're only finding SBE 2 barrels, that may be an option for you.

How is it messed up? Depending on the damage, a decent gunsmith might be able to repair it. I purchased one cheap from someone whose muzzle had been blown out. Sent it to Briley, they cut off the damage portion, cleaned it up and installed their thin-walled chokes. SBE 1 barrels show up on GunBroker & Ebay but they're always very expensive.

My personal thoughts only. Others, including the OP may not concur. For a HD shotgun load, Federal LE13200 (FliteControl) is as good as it gets. Lower recoil over the higher velocity rounds. At HD distances, you'll have a tighter pattern, i.e., more accurate shot and LESS likely to have an errant pellet fly hither and yon. Depending on the gun, within 30 feet and even beyond, you'll likely get a one-hole hit on target. Some will chime in that " . . . well if yer gonna have such a tight pattern you might as well shoot slugs . . . and, well, I'd rather have more of a spread in the pattern . . .blah, blah, blah". To those I say, fine, make your own choice. Overall, the shotgun for HD, in my view, has its own disadvantages and strengths but that's another discussion. My defensive shotguns, home or otherwise, are loaded as noted above.

Sorry, SD, but you've either mis-spoken here or there's something I'm not understanding in your response. The first part of your that sentence, and I agree, in a "click" situation you hear the hammer fall because it has been reset. But then you immediately contradict that by saying the hammer is already lowered against the back of the bolt. If the hammer is already lowered against the back of the bolt, as in the case of the mechanism not resetting, you would get a mushy trigger and hear no click.

I believe you're experiencing the well-known and maddeningly elusive to fix, "Benelli Click". Before proceeding, you should Google "Benelli Click" for a plethora of discussions of this very phenomenon. The short version: The when returning to battery after having been fired, the locking head is not fully rotating back into battery and thus not allowing the firing pin to to strike the primer on the shotgun shell. It's only a tiny bit of rotation of the locking head that hasn't fully completed but it's enough. While Benelli has always downplayed the issue, It has been enough of a problem universally that within the last couple of years they have re-designed the bolt/locking head mechanism to preclude this from happening on some of its current models. Have fun with your research.