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tucker301

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Everything posted by tucker301

  1. Another excellent suggestion, regarding the inside of the forearm! Thanks again. Maybe Benelli will will put us on the R&D payroll Your posts have been tremendously helpful. Glad you're here. I was beginning to think this forum was all about M2's and SBE's.
  2. Thanks for the tips on the ammo and the rubber gasket! I never thought of doing that, yet it's such a simple fix. I had to break out my Dremel tool to get the gas system components properly cleaned! Sheez! Other calibers: 25-06 would be great. I'd also like to see them match up to Browning on the WSM's. If the R1 were offered in the 300 WSM, that's the one I would have bought. The other night, while doing my second cleaning, I noticed that the barrel lock follower easily tightened about two clicks past the red index mark. I'm going to test again with it in that position. Maybe that will help with the accuracy as well. And finally, YES...**** YES! The piston flopping around on reassembly is annoying!
  3. They manufactured cheap firearms for Sears from roughly 1888 - 1914. Even in good condition, the firearm wouldn't be worth much at all.
  4. Do you mean the cap which holds the plastic plug in place? If so, simply insert a small screwdriver into the center hose and pry the cap upward to remove it. Place your hand over it as it comes out to prevent it from flying across the room.
  5. Well, I finally got the chance to get my new R1 to the range under decent weather conditions. After laser boresighting the Leupold VXII 3-9X50, I was ready to tear some paper. I tested using two factory loads: Hornady's 150 gr. Interbond and Federal's 125 gr. Power Shok. The range was 100 yards from a solid benchrest setup. The Hornadys were first out of the gate with groups of no better than 3.5". Pretty abismal performance for a pricey deer rifle and a quality ammunition. The Federals performed only slightly better with 2" groups. I noticed marked vertical stringing with rounds 4 and up. Cooling for 20 minutes was the only cure for that. I also noticed that the fore-arm cap is subject to work its way loose if it's secured only hand tight. Tightening the fore-arm cap more securely with a coin fixed that problem, but it also raised the point of impact about 3.5 inches. Not good. There is an exceptional amount of creep in the trigger, bu after the long travel it is fairly crisp. Cleaning up after 40 rounds reveals quite a bit of fouling on the internal gas system parts, some of which prooved very difficult to remove. After cleaning, I thought I'd go back this afternoon and see how the first shot placed on a cold barrel. The placement was about where I'd hoped it to be, but the groups still string and average 2" or more. By comparison, I also fired my Winchester Apex .45 caliber muzzleloader this afternoon, and it actually out-grouped the Benelli at 100 yds., easily placing three rounds within a 1.5" ring. While I'm not ready to give up on the R1 yet, and will go ahead and use it this deer season, I have to say that I am thus far disappointed with the rifle. I expected more for my $1,000, but most of all I expected more from Benelli.
  6. The fore-end cap I'm referring to is the external cap which doubles as the sling mount. Not the one that locks down the barrel (with red dots). Thanks for the responses. I didn't realize I'd posted the safety conversion notes in that section.
  7. While the mods quickly deleted my post regarding changing the R1's safety for southpaws, no one seems quite so eager to answer my simple question regarding the proper amount of tightening on the fore-end cap. Well, anyone can be the hall monitor. Seems we're heavy on those and short on teachers.
  8. What kind of calendar is that? I think I may want one!
  9. Is finger tight sufficient for screwing down the fore-end cap, or should a I use a coin or tool to go a bit beyond finger tight? It's pretty small and I can't get a very good grip on it.
  10. Well, that was fun! I just finished reversing the safety on my new R1 for left hand use. On a difficulty scale of one to ten, I'd have to give this task an 8. The exploded parts diagram that ships with the rifle is certainly helpful, if not absolutely necessary. The most annoying thing is that you have to remove every single component of the trigger and hammer group in order to access the safety. Come on Benelli, take a hint from Remington!! The diagram is oriented as though looking from the muzzle end, with the safety closest to you. A word of caution - The parts diagram wrongfully shows the trigger pin bushings (016W) being inserted with the flat head on the shooter's left-hand side of the trigger group. Re-assembly this way is possible, but you'll find that the retaining clip (018A) on the rearward pin bushing will interfere with the operation of the No-Load Indicator lever (219W). It's better and easier to install both pin bushings from the shooter's right side of the group. Also, be very careful with removing the safety for reversal. You can easily damage the rubber pin that makes the safety a quiet safety. In fact, I sheared mine off and ended up removing it altogether. The safety now "clicks", but no more so than a Remington or Browning.
  11. I just picked up a R1 30-06 today. The catalog shows the rifle with a Leupold style scope base in one photo. Does anyone know the Leupold or Redfield catalog number for this base? Yes, I have scope rail shipped with the rifle. Just looking for my favorite.
  12. The R1 ships with a Picatinny scope rail. This accomodates most Weaver and Millet style rings. However, the Benelli catalog shows the R1 with a Leupold/Redfield style base in one of the photos. I'm still looking for the Leupold catalog number. [ 09-05-2004, 08:12 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]
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