BlackDogs3
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Posts posted by BlackDogs3
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Hate to be low tech, but a rubber band around the gun over the ejector port and presto, the shell stays in the chamber. Sure beats marring up your nice shiny SuperSport.
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I'm a bit confused. Are you shooting steel #2 and #4 through a full choke? Some one mentioned using a full choke for ducks. Try the modified choke, it is basically the full choke for steel. Try patterning at 22 yards first to see if you are putting the gun up correctly. You should be seeing the back sight half way up the front sight. Are you seeing a lot of rib when you aim? You might need to lower the drop using the shims. If the problem persists, lower the drop. Shooting to the left is common and caused by miss position of the gun butt by right handed shooters. Make sure the beads are lined up and the back bead is half way up the front bead (it should look like a figure 8).
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First of all, good job on the purchase price. I just traded in a camo M1 on a new SBEII and I got $600 for the trade. Only one suggestion, the M1 kicks impressively with 3" steel loads for ducks. If this is too much for you, immediately replace the recoil pad with a LimbSaver. I have added a LimbSaver to both my 20 ga SuperSport and my 12 ga SBEII and I love the difference. Beware of the rabbit effect, my SBEII is my third Benelli in the last year (four total over the last 6 years).
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Two points:
1) I shoot steel through my 20 ga SuperSport all of the time for pheasant in Iowa and ND due to the use of non-toxic shot in public areas. Steel works just fine. I use an IC choke for game farms and opening weekend, and a Mod choke later in the season if the birds are going up wild.
2) Do yourself a favor and pattern your gun at 22 and 32 yards with the steel loads that you will be using for geese. Snap shooting at 22 yards will let you know if you are putting the gun up correctly and/or if the drop needs to be adjusted. Shoot at least three shots in a row, snapping up each one, at the patterning board. At 32 yards, you will see the pattern that you will be throwing at geese. In my experience, if you are missing geese at 32 yards with steel shot through a modified choke, it is because you missed them by more than 3 feet. Steel gives an excellent 3 foot patten at 32 yards through a Benelli stock modified choke. We have tested this using my SuperSport 20 ga, my 12 ga SBEII and my buddies new camo Vinci 12 ga. Remember, if you can clearly see their eyes, shoot at the head - if you can't, give them an uncomfortable lead (shoot some skeet and you will know what I mean)
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With the help of a gunsmith, we figured out the problem. There is a small trick to attaching the Vinci fore end to the barrel/stock. Thanks for all the help (oh, wait there wasn't any help).
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A friend of mine just purchased a new Vinci camo. He cannot get the fore end to lock onto the barrel. I have checked out the quick assembly instructions. It looks straight forward and simple. The gun was assembled when he bought it and was broken down and put in the case. Any suggestions?
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Check two books out of the library- Water Dog and Game Dog by Richard A. Wolters. Both books will help you choose and train you pup.
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The miss-fire was probably due to the bolt NOT being closed all of the way. This is a known issue with Benelli's. You can "bump" the bolt to a slightly open position and the firing pin will not reach the primer correctly. Always check to make sure that the bolt is fully seated especially after carrying the gun for distance in the field.
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hammondc:
I don't know why you would hunt turkey with steel. It's effective range is much less than lead. No, for turkey I would use a nasty 3.5" lead turkey load through a full choke or an after market turkey choke in my SBEII 12 ga. I have read, but not tried since the IM and full Benelli chokes are NOT recommended for steel, that a choke tighter than Modified with steel seriously deforms the pattern. The steel shot cannot compress in the choke, so the pellets jam up in the choke and start bouncing off each other disrupting the pattern.
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jraducks:
Good looking dog - congratulations.
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You should get to a patterning board and shoot your gun with various chokes and various lead and steel loads. You will be surprised at the results. After missing birds with steel and ranges that were easy with lead, I thought it was the difference in the loads until I patterned my new SuperSport this year with both lead and steel. Because steel does not compress in the choke as much as lead, the Modified choke patterns steel similarly to the full choke for lead loads. I have been missing birds with steel because my pattern was way too tight. I am now using an IC choke for steel and hitting a lot more birds. If the ducks are coming into the decoys, I would suggest a Cylinder or Skeet choke for steel. Try it out, you will be surprised. I would be interested to know what the constrictions are in an after market "full" choke for steel. Are they the same as lead or is it just a full choke that won't get destroyed shooting steel through it.
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I have two black labs - this is definitely the dog for your situation. We mostly hunt pheasant, but both dogs are great in the water. Labs can stand extremely cold water and are great house dogs. Zack, my 9 year old taught me how to hunt birds and train dogs and cost me a big $100. Great hunting dog but bad knees - cost me $1000 per knee to fix his when he was 4 years old. This fact and other potential lab breed problems (all breeds have medical problems that you need to look out for) is why you want to buy your lab with a good pedigree. My "puppy" (almost 3) is AKC registered from a great pedigree in Wisconsin and cost $400. His dad is a master hunter and his mom is a great pheasant dog. Izzy was retrieving bumpers to hand in the water at 9 weeks old and is the best retriever that I have ever seen (still learning from Zack about finding birds though). Get a copy of Richard A. Wolters "Game Dog" book from the library and read it. The Wolters system does not require a shock collar and works extremely well. He also has a valuable section on selecting a puppy. He has also published an older book called "Water Dog" that you should read. You do not want a "trials" level lab - they are alpha personalities that will try to stare you down. You need this in a trials dog due the amount of pressure that you have to put on the dog (shock collars set on stun) to get them up to snuff for trials. You want a hunting dog that is also a companion and a great house dog. Get a Lab and read Wolters books.
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The new Vinci is out and might be the ticket for a one gun owner. Lighter and cheaper than the SBEII. No 3.5 inch shells for turkeys but impressive new design with reported low recoil. Worth a look.
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Go out and pattern your gun before you start adjusting it. The Benelli will shoot high relative to your model 12. European guns are designed so that the target is above the bead and you can actually see what you are shooting at. You do not "cover the bird" with a Benelli.
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What do you mean by "not working"? Do they fit in the barrel but are the wrong length, is the diameter too large for the barrel, do the "not working" chokes look like the IC? Where did you get the gun? Brand new in the box or opened?
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I suggest that you take your new gun to a local gunsmith and have them help you with the fit. You must have very long arms if the 14 & 3/8 is too short. The new stocks on the 2008 SBEII are longer by about 1/2" but I don't know if buying a new stock is cost effective.
According to my gunsmith, the LOP is the distance from the trigger to the middle of the recoil pad. Drop and cast take some equipment to measure.
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Not a lefty, but I just used my new SBEII at a game farm for pheasant. Four shots, four hit birds. Great gun, I can't wait for duck season. I second LimbSaver as a recoil pad. Put a LimbSaver 10401 on the SBEII. You will be MUCH happier when shooting 3.5" shells.
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I bought a 20 ga Monte with the 28" barrel in January of last year for pheasant. Mainly so that I could shoot 3" 20 ga steel for pheasant in Iowa and North Dakota. Loved the gun. It holds five 2 3/4 inch shells and four 3" shells. I sold the Monte to my hunting buddy in October on a pheasant trip to North Dakota because he needed a gun that could shoot steel. All he had was a couple inherited Belgian Browning A5 12 ga and steel is a bad idea in an old 12 ga. He has gotten used to the Monte and now he loves it. I used the money that he gave me for the Monte to trade up to a 28" 20 ga SuperSport that I like even better than the Monte.
Suggestions: 1) Get the 20 ga 28" barrel - the Monte is so light that the extra barrel length will not affect your swing and the extended sight length makes shooting easier. It also adds mass to the gun which helps with recoil and followthrough - the Monte is so light that followthrough becomes a bit of a problem that needs to be praticed ; 2) get the Monte (or SuperSport if you have the dough) - again the 20 ga Monte is so light that the Ultra light is only 0.2 lbs lighter and the Monte can hold 5 shells; 3) A 20 ga Monte is a great gun for pheasant BUT you will need to be more accurate in your shots - not nearly as much leeway as with a 12 ga. So shoot some skeet with the new gun; 4) Both the 28" Monte and SuperSport with the extended Crio chokes pattern both lead and steel extremely well. No after market chokes needed. I believe the 24" barrel does not have the extended chokes.
PS: I would not use a 20 ga for ducks, geese or turkey. I have a 12 ga SBEII for those birds.
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Try a LimbSaver 10401 or10400. They are ~$40, easy to put on and really make a difference. Changed my new 12ga SBEII from scary to OK with 3.5" steel loads.
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I am using a 20 ga SuperSport for pheasant and its great. A light, cool looking gun and it patterns both lead and steel (for public grounds in Iowa and North Dakota) extremely well. It also has a window under the forend so that you can tell how many rounds are in the magazine.
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The Limbsaver 10401 is $40 retail and offered cheaper in a few places on the net. Only 40% of the cost of the Benelli recoil pad and a lot better.
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The LimbSaver 10401 or 10400. The 10400 is the LimbSaver "speed" pad that comes with a coating agent to make the top of the pad slick so that it does not catch on your hunting clothes. The 10400 is thinner than the 10401. I put a 10401 on my 12 ga SBEII and a 10400 on my 20 ga Super Sport. Shooting 3.5" steel loads through my SBEII Comfortech with the LimbSaver 10401 makes a world of difference and significantly reduces felt recoil compared to the stock pad.
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According to the link, the 10402 is for the Nova, the 10400 or 10401 fit the SBEII. I installed a 10401 on my SBEII and it made a world of difference. The plastic insert does look breakable, but LimbSaver told me that they would gladly send a replacement if it broke. For the newer 2008 SBEII (like mine), you will have to tape the sides of the insert for a secure fit. Benelli extended the stock of the late 2008 SBEII and this makes the insert a little loose.
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Perkis is correct. Take off the forend cap and the plug is the small aluminum rod that sits in the threaded forend nut. You will be looking at the top of it, it looks like an aluminum nail head. In the 20 ga without the plug, you can get 4 - 23/4" shells in the mag and one in the chamber. For 3" shells, its three in the mag and one in the chamber. Don't loose the plug, I'm guessing that Benelli will want one of your kidneys to replace it.
Vinci assembly
in Benelli
Posted
Unlike the other bonebutts on this forum, I will be happy to help. There is a flat retractable pin on the stock end of the Vinci fore end that looks like it should go into a hole on the stock. IT DOES NOT GO INTO THE HOLE/SLOT. Instead, the pin is designed to press against the plate above the hole/slot in the stock. This is very confusing and not addressed at all in the Benelli Vinci manual. They do tell you to align the notch on the fore end with the white dot on the barrel, but they do not tell you why this is important. It is necessary to keep the fore end pressed tightly against the barrel when you slide it toward the stock. Other wise, the pin will go into the slot not onto the plate above it and you will not be able to lock the fore end in place. In addition, the extra paint on the camo model makes the fore end fit very tightly until it is broken in. You really need to brace the recoil pad on something and press the fore end onto the stock with some force. Once everything is pressed together correctly, the lock pivots without resistance and the gun is assembled. If you are using a lot of force to turn the fore end lock, you haven't got everything aligned and pushed together. It is easy once you get the hang of it, but it stumped our gunsmith for about 15 min. He had to check the net before he figured it out and he assembled the gun the first time out of the box without a problem.