StrangerDanger

This seems odd. Anytime I install the stock retaining screw, I screw it all the way into the bottom until it stops. Never had any issues with stocks not being able to grab the threads and tighten itself up. I’m thinking the threads on the stock stay bolt may be stripped off the end.

Pretty cool. Looks like the front barrel hanger is like 6 inches long to support the bayonet. It also uses a different magazine cap that interfaces with the ring mount of a standard bayonet. I wish Kip from Carriercomp had went ahead with building his bayonet mount for the M4 which used a Sog blade rather than a traditional M9 bayonet. I don't think he ever released pictures of the assembly, but I could be wrong.

I considered that actually. However I tested the fit with brand new OEM extensions that had never had Loctite applied, and they only show minimal wiggle. Old used extensions have thread locker dried inside the threads which might be tightening the fit to some degree. The first RMW extensions I received would rock to all sides once screwed in to depth. When measuring the tubes, the outer diameter was undersized approximately 75 thousandths of an inch compared to an OEM tube. For those not familiar with these kind of measurements, figure 100 thousands to be a 1/10 of an inch. RMW undersized the tubes after finding tolerance issues with the OEM receivers. Some would fit, others would not. I don't know where the issue is because I've installed probably 200 of the OEM extensions and never encountered an issue where the tubes fit sloppy in various receivers with replacement OEM extensions.

I'd call back and try to get someone else on the phone. It seems like they didn't understand your issue. Hopefully they'll just be willing to replace the stock and send you a new one.

Have you taken the sling assembly out of the stock previously? I'm not understanding how you voided your warranty.

I did see that recently. I needed to have two of the extensions replaced since the tolerances were so loose that when you screwed the extension in, the extension would rock back and forth due to poor thread engagement. Regal made me two new ones with larger specs which came with the drain holes. One extension fit nice and tight, the other would only thread in four full rotations before binding. Both tubes are dimensionally the same since they both fit into one receiver. The second receiver is nogo with either of them. So I'm going to guess there is some tolerance slop between receivers which can be a real pain in the ass to build a part for. Its been kind of a headache and has delayed two projects significantly. I'm really interested to see how RXArms tubes compare.

Probably the best route since that stock retainer screw is like 40+ dollars these days and the stock itself might be damaged as well. Definitely a weird failure.

The screws for the buttpad are a philips screw. Put some oil on the driver and it will push into the two holes on the buttpad. Then you just have to feel your way around until the driver engages the screw. Correct on the receiver extension being the recoil tube. This disassembly guide I made a few years ago might help lead you thru some of the inspection. These assemblies are a pain in the ass to take apart, but it is doable. However if the polymer ring that is molded into the middle of the stock that aligns the center bolt is broken, it may be trash.

What kind of heat source are you using? Sometimes MAPP gas is the only option.

I've seen this a lot with the OEM aluminum trigger housing. They're all mostly cosmetic. Mostly it's flashing and molding marks. There are also tons of pin hole voids present in the aluminum. Certain areas you can use a metal file to remove the high spots. You can then do a quick Alumablack finish on the aluminum to hide the work.

Here are the components inside of the stock. The threaded end on the right screws into the bottom of the receiver extension. There is also a plastic guide loop that the center shaft goes thru. I'm wondering if it may have broken and is allowing it to move around. I'd want to remove the buttpad to take a look to see what kind of movement is present in the assembly. If you don't want to deal with any of that, Benelli will likely warranty the stock for you.

Looks great!

You can also remove the iron sights pretty easily. I find they clutter the optic and add extra unneeded weight. Decide which stock position you want to use primarily. I find the RMR to sit too low for the middle position of the collapsible stock. Fully extended it works fine. You can buy a spacer that fits between the RMR and the Scalarworks mount to raise the optic from Reptilia. They have 2.5mm and 10mm options depending on your preference. You'll have to modify the screw that come with the spacers to fit the Scalarworks, basically you're just shortening them to the needed length. This one is set up with the 10mm spacer.

The wings of the carrier are likely bent. I've fixed a few of them by putting them in a vice and whacking the elevator with a rubber mallet. It doesn't take much force to tweak it.

You're right. I never noticed that it was canted to one side. I'd probably experiment with the two stocks. See if both stocks behave the same way on the black M4. If so, that means the issue is with the extension. If the issue is only present on the black M4's stock, then we can try to sort out which part is out of spec.

The receiver extension was installed wrong. Those notches on the extension should be facing top dead center. From the photos it appears to be canted about 10-15 degrees to the right. The extension will need to be removed with heat assuming they applied thread locker to the components, chemically cleaned and retimed correctly. You’re also missing a snap ring in the end of the extension. *Edit, never mind, I see it in one of the photos above. *When the extension is being instead, it has a tendency to turn when tightening the jam nut. Happens to me all the time during my installs. You have to apply counter torque to the extension with a 19mm wrench on the flats while tightening the jam nut. If you aren’t checking the work with a collapsible stock afterwards, this alignment issue can present itself.

The pistons shouldn’t be an issue. They don’t move much or get crazy with the amount of gas blown out of the Argo system. Hopefully it isn’t another set screw job.

Please get a picture of the tab kind of like how NCSwamp13 shows it.

Any info on how it attaches and detaches? Do you need to remove your mounted items in order to get it off of the barrel assembly? Weight specs?

Remove the rear most top rail screw and recheck to see if the barrel will seat. If the tip screw protrudes from the receiver on the inside, it will obstruct the barrel from seating.

Nice work and functional improvements.

BTW, did you make that purple chair? I made something almost identical in shop class.

On the front sight, the tower will still be welded to the barrel, but you can remove the hood and front sight post. It’ll give you a little less obstruction thru the optic window. Given that it’s a shotgun, you don’t even need sights to be in the ballpark at shotgun distances. You can use the glass hood of the optic is a big ghost ring. In the event the optic is obstructed by dirt or some kind of debris, the irons wouldn’t help much anyway. You’d be better off just looking over the optic. I see what you mean with that switch pack. I’ve never handled that remote switch. It would be difficult to get it thru the rail.

Looking good. I would probably ditch the extended choke and the iron sights. You’d see significant weight cuts from that alone. You’ll also shorten the overall length with is critical for a defensive shotgun. The Benelli is already extremely long as it is. Every bit of length you can remove will make it more functional in close quarters. In a shoot house, even an 11.5” AR feels long when you’re approaching corners. I remember having to clear a mine with a 10.5” AR a long time ago when we were looking for someone. About half way thru, I dropped it to slung and went to my pistol for the remainder of the search. Do you have pictures of your light activation system? Could you mod the rail to permit looming the wire internally to protect it from damage?

Something magical about thumping plates in the dark.