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Stevejg16

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Posts posted by Stevejg16

  1. I'm using a Blue Force Gear Vickers Padded Sling. I put an HK 1" Sling Snap Hook on it and attach it to the small hole in the Benelli Collapsible Stock. I have a Surefire Rail so I have a GG & G Sling Thingy (Heavy Duty) on the other end of the sling.

  2. looks great curious where do you hold on to it at? Looks like no room between the light and the 2 shell holder.

     

    Great observation.....I put the light there just for the picture, I can get a good grip behind the light but, I'm not even running a light on the Benelli, I pulled it from my LWRC M4 SBR.

  3. Great to hear. Function test the **** out of it. I'd even jolt it on the rubber butt pad on the ground. So do you have to mail the defective ones back?

     

    I will do that. I did mail back the other parts and inavertantly sent him the Factory Trigger, we'll swap the parts in the mail. He is still not sure anything is wrong. After becoming an expert in changing the trigger group out (about 10 times) I think the disconnector was sitting forward just enough to catch.

  4. I'm sure this will get straightened out. The disconnector appears to be barely hanging on your hammer hook. The finish was probably a little heavy on it which is causing it to hang up. Since the hammer isn't the issue, it'll be on either the disconnector or the trigger itself as being out of spec.

     

    When the hammer hook pushes down, it hits the disconnector. This is why it has the spring loaded detent. This allows the disconnnector to be pushed back slightly to allow the hammer to pass by, then engage the disconnector hook as long as the triggger is pulled to the rear. It appears to be catching on the disconnector even with the trigger released.

     

    If you pull the trigger pack out, and cycle the hammer by hand, did it hang up on the disconnector?

     

    There are always what are called tollerance stacking events for any mechanical device. No matter how precisely made. It is difficcult to control the tollerances on a finish.

     

     

    Yes, the trigger does hang up on the disconnector with the trigger pack out.

  5. That's why I was confused (newbie). Now I realize that the list on FFT only has the 13 parts relevant to the Benelli M4.

    The list I received from the ATF is the all inclusive parts list.

     

    And yes, this topic has been beaten to a pulp but, it's still confusing. I couldn't get a straight answer from the ATF regarding the Surefire M80 Forend. There are vendors that have a "Made in the USA" flag on this product and yet Surefire sent me an email stating that they are not compliant to "Made in the USA" they are "American Act" compliant. Because the rubber rail covers are made elsewhere.

     

    So, would this add an extra part to the list? It's still confusing.

  6. This is a copy of an e-mail I received from the ATF this morning.

     

    Is this the "same" list, or are there added parts?

     

    -------

    -------

     

    Federal law 922® states in part, it shall be unlawful for any person to assemble from imported parts any semiautomatic rifle or any shotgun which is identical to any rifle or shotgun prohibited from importation under section 925(d)(3) of this chapter as not being particularly suitable for or readily adaptable to sporting purposes except that this subsection shall not apply to—(1) the assembly of any such rifle or shotgun for sale or distribution by a licensed manufacturer to the United States or any department or agency thereof or to any State or any department, agency, or political subdivision thereof; or (2) the assembly of any such rifle or

    shotgun for the purposes of testing or experimentation authorized by the Attorney General.

     

    Federal regulations at 478.39 states (a) No person shall assemble a semiautomatic rifle or any shotgun using more than 10 of the imported parts listed in paragraph © of this section if the assembled

    firearm is prohibited from importation under section 925(d)(3) as not being particularly suitable for or readily adaptable to sporting purposes. (b) The provisions of this section shall

    not apply to: (1) The assembly of such rifle or shotgun for sale or distribution by a licensed manufacturer to the United States or any department or agency thereof or to any State or any department,

    agency, or political subdivision thereof; or (2) The assembly of such rifle or shotgun for the purposes of testing or experimentation authorized by the Director under the provisions of § 478.151; or

    (3) The repair of any rifle or shotgun which had been imported into or assembled in the United States prior to November 30, 1990, or the replacement of any part of such firearm. © For purposes of this section, the

    term imported parts are:

     

    (1) Frames, receivers, receiver castings,

    forgings or stampings

    (2) Barrels

    (3) Barrel extensions

    (4) Mounting blocks (trunions)

    (5) Muzzle attachments

    (6) Bolts

    (7) Bolt carriers

    (8) Operating rods

    (9) Gas pistons

    (10) Trigger housings

    (11) Triggers

    (12) Hammers

    (13) Sears

    (14) Disconnectors

    (15) Buttstocks

    (16) Pistol grips

    (17) Forearms, handguards

    (18) Magazine bodies

    (19) Followers

    (20) Floorplates

     

    Therefore, to be in compliant with the federal laws and regulations ou may assemble your firearm with no more than 10 imported parts listed above.

  7. Have you tried installing say just the hammer and testing it to see if the failures happen? Also, you'll want to apply a small amount of grease to the sear contacts for optimal performance.

     

    Basically, when the weapon fires and you hold the trigger to the rear, the hammer is cocked by the cycling bolt carrier. The discconnector then engages because the hammer is still pulled to the rear. This prevents the hammer from just falling again aas the bolt carrier cycles forward since the trigger is still pulled. As you let off of the trigger, the hammer hook disconnects from the disconnector and engages the trigger hook. The hammer is then ready to fall when the trigger is pulled again.

     

    Your hammer should never be held by the disconnector when the trigger isn't pulled to the rear. This is where your problem resides.

     

    I did try just installing the factory hammer, same problem. These parts layed on top of each other look identical but, something has to be off somewhere by a few thousandths. Todd at FFT is baffled by this since all his parts are CNC'd (terminology?). We'll see if the trigger group he is shipping will do the trick. I hope so, I need those three parts for compliance.

  8. The trigger spring does go in that hole in the base of the trigger. If you pushed the trigger all the way forward, would the disconnector disengage?

     

    Since the factory FCG works, this alludes to the fact that nothing else is wrong with the weapon.

     

    Good to hear that FFT is sending you a new set to try.

     

    There was no forward play in the trigger at all. I've learned so much in a few days. If the new FFT trigger group gives me the same problem I'll have to look for another supplier. But, will always appreciate the customer service he gave me.

     

    "StrangerDanger", thanks for your input. I would still be wondering WTF. I'll post my results. Still waiting for my Titanium one piece extended magazine from FFT so, I do have some time to comply with 922r.

  9. The pictures helped a lot. The hammer is hanging up on the disconnector. When the trigger is let go, the hammer hook should come off the disconnector and engage the trigger hook. So either;

     

    1. The hammer is out of spec (possible but unlikely)

    2. The Disconnector is out of spec (Unlikely)

    3. The trigger is out of spec. Or, it is possible that the trigger spring is not installed correctly.

     

    I would install the factory hammer and see if the issue still exists. If the problem is still present, pull the trigger pack out and verrify that the spring is seated correctly and functioning. The spring should be returning the trigger to its forward position. If you can manually pull the trigger forward, there is something wrong. Listen to hear if the disconnector is disengaging and allowing you to pull the trigger normally.

     

    If the spring seems fine, swap to the stock disconnector on the FFT trigger and try again. If the problem still exists, swap back to the stock trigger.

     

    The goal is to determine which part is causing the problem.

     

     

    Before I even get home and check the info you gave me, I'm thinking it's going to be the trigger spring. I thought it went into the "hole" just forward of the "trigger". I can't tell from the schematic, can you please explain the positioning of the trigger spring in reference to where it lies against the trigger and inside the trigger guard? Thank you for your time!

     

    UPDATE...... The FFT Trigger Group didn't work for me. Changed back to factory Parts, no problem. I'll let everyone know how the customer service is at FFT. i'm just disappointed parts would get sent to a customer like this.

     

    Just talked to Todd from FFT, called me back in two minutes after I sent him an email. He is sending another trigger group to

    me immediately. He's confident that his parts are spec, this is the first problem he has heard about. Great customer service.

  10. Can you take pictures of the trigger pack? I'm not sure what you mean by saying you were having issues with floating a round. You mean having a round chambered, and another round on top of the elevator?

     

    You could try dropping the stock parts back in one at a time and performing the function check. I'd start with the hammer. Then do the disconnector. Then the trigger. If it still doesn't work, try it with the stock parts. If it still does not work, something may be reassembled incorrectly.

     

    Yes, I do mean a round in the chamber and another on top of the elevator, this "seams" to be engaging the disconnector. When this happens, I cycle the bolt, it ejects the chambered round and loads the round that was on top of the elevator and the hammer still won't drop...then, only when the magazine is empty and the bolt is locked to the rear, I can push the bolt release and the hammer will drop. Here are pictures with the hammer cocked, disconnector engaged, hammer forward.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]1378[/ATTACH]

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]1379[/ATTACH]

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]1380[/ATTACH]

     

    I just noticed something...I lock the bolt back, drop a shell in, drop the bolt closed, load dummy rounds in the magazine, press the trigger and the hammer falls, manually cycle, ejects chambered round and loads a round in the chamber, hammer will not fall, press cartridge drop lever, cycle again, ejects and loads another round, hammer will not fall, cycle bolt and cartridge drop lever until magazine is empty and bolt locks to the rear, press bolt release and hammer drops. This sounds like "operator error" (Meaning I did something wrong replacing the hammer, trigger, disconnector. It seamed pretty straight forward and pretty easy). Or is this how the gun is supposed to function dry firing and manually cycling using dummy rounds?

     

    If the pictures don't offer any clues, I will post of video. This is my first Benelli so, I (obviously) am a newbie. I'm learning as much as I can, this forum is certainly a big help. Thanks!

  11. I just bought an M4. Installed a Hammer, Trigger, Disconnector from FFT. Seems to function (dry fire) fine. When I try to float a (dummy) round the hammer won't drop. It seems by pulling the bolt back just enough for the chambered round to be able to be manipulated down to clear the bolt resets the disconnector. No matter how careful I am not bringing the bolt too far back. Is this normal or could I have screwed up something in the trigger group install?

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