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Posts posted by Benelligunny

  1. Well the Legacy pad is a screw on so that rules that out. However, the side vented, pull out recoil pad of the Monte is interchangeable with any comfort pad as long as it's a 12ga. So yes, an SBEII pad will fit a Monte.

  2. No, there should not be a gap. If the gun is a newer one, there should be 2 plastic shims between the stock and receiver. One drop shim and one cast shim. If this is a replacement stock then you might have gotten the wrong one. Like a 12ga stock on a 20ga receiver. 12's are wider than 20's. Could be an old style stock trying to fit on a newer style gun. Pics would help.

  3. It doesn't matter what shim is in it if you are turkey hunting and shooting straight down the rib. Shims are for flying targets. I doubt if the barrel is not bent that it's shooting 2 feet low. Take the trulgow sights off and sight it with 2 3/4" standard loads. This will take the flinch factor out. Turkey loads pound you and you develop a flinch. Quit using a lead sled for sighting. You wont have it in the woods so it will have no bearing on where you can shoot.There is one thing you can check. The barrel stop ring on the front end of the mag tube or the mag tube itself may be loose or both. In older guns this sometimes gets loose as the Loctite ages and oil seeps in. With the barrel and forend off, try to turn either one. They should not move. If the barrel stop ring is very loose then it could be backed down. Here's what happens. If it is too loose, when you tighten the mag cap, it can bend the barrel down making the gun shoot low. If it is too far forward it can make it shoot high and also keep the barrel from seating to the receiver properly and cause other variously bad problems. Ideally, the stop ring and mag tube should be tight. Install the barrel without the forend on and look at the gap between the back of the barrel hanger on the barrel and the front of the stop ring. There should be only a small light gap or a measured .002" to .004" gap. It might be difficult to understand but the mag tube assembly can be very responsible for point of impact. So, check these things out. Put the "D" shim and plate back in, take the aftermarket sights off, stack the beads (don't line them up one directly behind the other), use a factory full choke (some aftermarket chokes are junk) and try again. If it is an older SBE with the flat rib instead of the raised, step rib it should shoot a 50/50 pattern at 25 yards.

  4. Many Benelli's of similar type have the same manual installed with them. Instead of making 200 different manuals they just make 20 and that covers similar models. The standard 12 and 20ga Legacy has never had a removable rib. Only the 28ga.

  5. Did you buy it used, has there been a trigger job done on it? Just saying because some folks sell off their problems. In any case, if it has not acted like this in the past, I would pull out the trigger assembly and check for trash/debris in the assembly. I would also remove the trigger. Just insert a punch from left to right only as far as needed to release the trigger (not the drop lever spring) it makes it easier to reassemble. There might be a lot of debris under the trigger that is keeping it from resetting properly. Also check for cracks in the guard itself and function of the trigger disconnect. The shell may be popping out because the hammer is not staying back and keeping the drop lever tripped. If possible I would do a complete trigger assembly teardown as there may be built up debris under the hammer keeping it and the trigger from resetting properly. Often I have found a small piece of lead shot lodged between the trigger and the safety that can cause this malfunction so clean it over a clean table and see what falls out.

  6. Thanks for saying that Truckcop, and I really mean that. I hate it when I get a gun in and the note says "gun jams", "wont cycle", "wont recycle", "don't work". My favorites are when a customer that doesn't know the name of a part makes one up for it like the "pushy/pulley thingy that works the heavy thing back and forth". My current favorite is the "reserve chamber flap" which took me a few minutes to figure out. Sometimes it brings a smile to my face and sometimes it leaves me scratching my head and wanting to scream.

  7. Just a quick FYI. The M1 Tac with rifle sights is a close up gun. You do know it is not meant for any long range work? This is why there have been no replies because there are no other sights Benelli makes. If by chance you still want to pursue this then by all means do so. You will have to learn how to measure the dovetail and design one on your own. There are companies out there that do make what you need but you need to think outside the box. And it has nothing to do with shotguns or rifles. Many of us here could tell you but what fun would that be and the learning process is so important.

  8. No, go back and look at the post. Put down the receiver and trigger assembly and bolt (leave the bolt alone). The barrels extractor CUT radius may be where the problem lies. Please do not be ashamed of not understanding this or even it being out of your league. It is for most people. I'm sure that if you saw it done even once you would say "WOW" that was simple! Brownells has the replacement spring. The Benelli part number is 60691.

  9. Well with that many rounds it probably wouldn't hurt. As always, cleaning and oiling is imperative. The Benelli click I have found is mostly unrelated to a used recoil spring. Many times it's actually a battered extractor cut on the barrel. Many people get too wrapped up in whiz bang springs and accoutrements while overcomplicating the obvious. Often this little radius is overlooked. It gets pounded every time the bolt slams shut by the extractor. With time a burr can build up and when the bolt tries to close the extractor can get stopped or delayed by this burr. This keeps the bolt from getting to complete battery and thus misfiring creating the Benelli click. Judicious use of regular or diamond needle files on this radius can go a long way to curing this problem. Just make sure the radius and curvature of the cut is kept.

  10. Yup, Gorilla glue would probably work just as good. But in any case I would let it cure before putting the pad back on because I know that Gorilla glue. If it over runs to the pad it might become a permanent attachment.

  11. It is a better system than the previous ones. A couple of more notes on use and assembly. The main screw in the receiver that holds the long cylinder plunger pin in may have Loctite on it and a heat gun may be needed to heat it and loosen the Loctite. It is also wise to put a dab of Loctite on these threads when reassembling. The main barrel nut (with the big spring)...there are no indicator marks anymore. Simply tighten this until it comes to a complete stop. The spring tension will hold the necessary tension on the barrel. Still keep it clean and lightly oiled but yes it does last better than the old system.

  12. Super glue! I would suggest taking the pad off the cage first though. Rough up the inside with a little sandpaper and the outside of the cage. Test fit it first. Use a fresh bottle of the gel or thicker kind if you can get it so it doesn't run so bad. Run a bead in the stock where the cage seats and on the sides and put a little on the outside of the cage. Find a work table or wall inside an outbuilding, not the kitchen table, push the cage in, press and hold it against a hard surface for a minute and you're done. Wipe off any excess that might squeeze out quickly. Let it cure and fume for at least a few hours before putting the recoil pad back on.

  13. On the set screw put a little dab of Loctite on it and just turn it until it stops. No pressure or torqueing. This will get very hot and expand with shooting. No set torque on the manifold screws. Use blue Loctite and tighten them from the inside out opposite sides like a head bolt pattern on an engine. Tight enough to where they all stop with the same amount of snugness. Don't gorilla fist them into oblivion.

  14. This is the first Nova you've seen I take it. They are plastic injection molded around a metal receiver. This is just over run in the plastic, not a crack. I wish I had a dollar for every time someone asked this question. It works ok? Good. Go out, shoot, have fun, be safe. This is normal.

  15. Two other things I would check. 1. Make sure the channel in the locking head is free of debris/fouling. With the bolt apart, just put the firing pin through the locking head and see if it protrudes freely. Many people clean the gun but forget this important area. It should protrude almost 1/4 inch and the locking head spin freely on it. 2. Some barrels develop a burr on the extractor cut from the extractor hitting it. This can be removed with a small file. The burr can catch the extractor and stop the locking head from turning into battery and cause a misfire. Also, a little more liberal oiling may help.

  16. Codger76...you probably don't need all that stuff anyhow. In the process of working on many Ethos guns I have found the cartridge latch spring to be too heavy. This pinches the shell during feeding and sometimes does not allow the carrier to raise the shell. Trim about 1 1/2 coils from the cartridge latch spring and make sure during reassembly that the open end of the spring goes into the back of the latch, not against the wall of the receiver. As with any Benelli, make sure the bolt rails are oiled.

  17. I have found that the chances of this type of wear increase if cheap steel case headed ammo is used. It is much harder than brass or the aluminum receiver. Guns that have had nothing but WinAA or Rem STS or Fed Gold Medal show very little or no wear most of the time. So yes, most of this is an ammo issue. There is no tweaking of the extractor that will effect this.

  18. Yes, it is true most of them are a little off center. No I was not talking about the carrier, I was talking about the trigger guard itself. The SBEII is plastic, the older SBE trigger guard is aluminum. The plastic ones can warp some coming out of the molding process and this is what causes the tile in the axis. Some of it is in where the pin rides and some is in the outside where the carrier sits. Yes it can be fixed and modified correctly, no it's not a simple answer. Tweeking the raised side of the carrier just fixes a symptom of whats happening, it's not a working problem solver.

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