Saw Doctor
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Posts posted by Saw Doctor
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How your headspace. It may be marginal from what I am gathering.
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oh yes.google optimal charge weight.it works.
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I lapped in the upper reciever where it spigots into the lower reciever.(hint..look for uneven wear marks where the upper reciever spigots intothe lower reciever which s essentially the recoil lug.) I noticed this on my rifle the first time I took the gun apart from a range session.It was bearing unevenly.Then I glass bedded the connection so there is no play.Make sure the forearm nut is finger snug,no more.i recrowned mine and did a trigger job.
probably have a whole day eliminating variables with this rifle before I put 30 rounds down the barrel.
the rifle is extremely hard on scopes as well.(30-06)on my fourth one in 350 rounds.hope I picked the right one.sightron seems to be holding up.next one will be a night force .
was it worth it. Yes,I own a superb killing stick that shoots at most 2 inch groups at 200 regularity shoots 1 inch groupes at the same distance.
I hate giving advice on gun smithing tips so take it for what it's worth.free.just trying to help.
Buy the way I've been handloading for 17 years and am a journeyman in 2 trades.(industrial mechanics and saw filing)worked in a machine a welding shop for 4 years.I know what i am talking about but I'm not sure if u can understand what I posted(I am not very good at painting pictures)never learned to post a pic and don't fuckin care to learn,so if you have any questions just post it and I'll do my best to clarify what I posted.
sorry about your results hope things get better with your rifle.
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Got to play with the R1 some more.Can't stress enough the importance firing those foulers.Extreme velocity spreads ran 60fps or more for the first 4 shots from a clean barrel.On a light barrel such as the r1 that translates to a full moa poi shift.
Speer Deep Curls and Superformance shot very well,but the powder is very dirty.Would like to shoot some other powder but none is available.
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Glad u like your rifle.Im just tickled myself.Cant wait to get outside and spend some more time with it.lol
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1in 11 twist is not a slow twist.Its faster than what i need,since i dont plan on shooting bullets heavier than 165 for hunting.(quicker follow up if needed)That twist should stabilize the longest 200grainers with no issues.i wouldn't worry about bullet length of a 165gr.The longest 165grainer is considerably shorter than the 200 gr sierra gameking that stabilized just fine in my rifle.
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Haven't tried tried a flat base yet.The 180s didn't shoot terrible, (1.25moa) consistently.The 200s were not tested as much as the 180s but showed some promising groups.Got some 165 deep curls to test and will get back to this thread when I can go out to the range.
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The most accurate load I have worked up so far is:
Winchester cases
wolf large rifle primer
165gr hornady sst
rl 19 powder.
I started working up from 57gr.Best accuracy came at 59grs.All rounds tested were sized in a neck lapped full length sizing die which gave .0015 bullet tension.(This was enough tension to keep bullets from moving in recoil.)
No neck turning.No weight sorting.Just super straight ammo.
If u are using any cases other than Winchester or Norma it would be prudent to drop down an additional 2 grains for starting loads.Guess that goes for any components other than the ones listed above.
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When I am finished cleaning I grease the back of the bolt lugs(happen to have synthetic axle bearing grease on hand others will work I'm sure.)assemble,let the bolt slam shut and pull the trigger to release the the spring tension there as well.
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I have probably 300-400 rounds through my .30-06 barrel that I found in sporting goods store in VT about 2 years ago. I suspect that it had been sitting in the shop for a few years prior, but it was new, fit great on my .300 WM and is a dream to shoot with the 20" barrel.
At the range the other day, I was shooting a new box of 165 gr. core-lokts and had a couple fail to fires. This would happen on the second shot after manually loading a round (i.e. jack one in, it fires, ejects, and puts in round #2, hear a click, no fire). There were no striker marks on the round. It did this maybe three times, and those rounds fired when chambered manually, so I know they weren't duds. I then proceeded to shoot an entire box of Federal Fusions without any problems and about another 10 core lokts. Any ideas?
I want to throw another thing out there, maybe related to this issue. I was always told to store semi-auto rifles and shotguns with the chamber open and locked back. Something about keeping the springs compressed. I do this with my R1. How do you guys store your R1 - bolt open or closed? Any comments on storing it like this? Thanks in advance.
Dont mean to offend but how clean is your rifle?
Are u letting the bolt slam shut from the rearmost position?
Are u using hand loads?
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I have probably 300-400 rounds through my .30-06 barrel that I found in sporting goods store in VT about 2 years ago. I suspect that it had been sitting in the shop for a few years prior, but it was new, fit great on my .300 WM and is a dream to shoot with the 20" barrel.
At the range the other day, I was shooting a new box of 165 gr. core-lokts and had a couple fail to fires. This would happen on the second shot after manually loading a round (i.e. jack one in, it fires, ejects, and puts in round #2, hear a click, no fire). There were no striker marks on the round. It did this maybe three times, and those rounds fired when chambered manually, so I know they weren't duds. I then proceeded to shoot an entire box of Federal Fusions without any problems and about another 10 core lokts. Any ideas?
I want to throw another thing out there, maybe related to this issue. I was always told to store semi-auto rifles and shotguns with the chamber open and locked back. Something about keeping the springs compressed. I do this with my R1. How do you guys store your R1 - bolt open or closed? Any comments on storing it like this? Thanks in advance.
Dont mean to offend but how clean is your rifle.
Are u letting the bolt slam shut from the rearmost position?
Are u using hand loads?
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A few things I have learned about my particular rifle.
My rifle doesn't start grouping until a few foulers have been run down it,after which accuracy does not degrade for the next 30 rounds(it may go many more but it gets cleaned after each session)
It does not shoot as well with the forearm nut tight.I tighten it finger tight and back it off a 1/4 turn and loctite it there.I mad a spanner wrench to remove the forearm nut for disassembly.The tighter the nut is the more the groups open up.
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My r1 (30-06)shoots at most 2 inches at 200 yards with tailored hand loads.It averages much less.Not as great with180s and 200s.I am not discounting the drive though.My only mods are a reworked trigger and a fresh crown.
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My rifle has the updated piston and manual.In the manual it states specifically to disassemble and clean the piston for storage.The piston itself is a more robust design and and should not be an issue with proper mantainance.As far as I'm concerned the piston is a non issue on the new Benellis.
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R1 magazines are not interchangeable with magazines from the m1a1
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I am sure the mr1 upper and lower reciever is smaller than the r1 overall.I would conclude stocks are not interchangeable.I have been wrong before.
Picatinny Rail on Forearm to mount bipod?
in R1 Rifle
Posted
It could be done provided you have enough of a backing plate on the inside.I wouldn't mount it without some sort of backer to spread load.