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kimurabean

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Posts posted by kimurabean

  1. Hello - I am looking to re-coat my M4 with cerakote and I have a question about stripping the original finish. I have the sand finish and over the years it has been scratched up. Before I work with a friend on blasting the finish off, he asked if there was a chemical I can use to strip the finish easier than stripping with silicone. Just doing my due diligence before I dive right in with "blasting" it off. BY THE WAY - this is by far my favorite shotgun ever.

     

     

    image.png.d20827a899e9541abeac3d491933b969.png

  2. Hey guys, its been a long while since I last posted on this site. a few years later and Im trying on some new gear for my M4. Quick question, does anyone have any instructions (pictorial) on installing factory trigger group's Axle Bushing, pins, etc. I removed it years ago and I used to have an old printout pictorial from this site, but I cant seem to locate it or the link. Any help would be appreciated.

  3. Also, I checked on some cold-weather lubes for duck hunters, and I found the following thread.

     

    http://www.duckhuntingchat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=152266

     

    It says to get FP-10, for cold weather lubrication (link below). It also says I should use "a small thin layer" of lube. I never did that. I thought I was supposed to slop it on thick when Im not shooting it regularly. That may also be my problem...too much lube.

     

    Lube Link : http://www.amazon.com/Shooters-Choice-FP-10-LUBRICANT-ELITE/dp/B0000C529R/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389577598&sr=8-1&keywords=FP-10+LUBRICANT

  4. StrangerDanger;

    Here's some answers to your questions.

     

    Q1: How many rounds do you have on your weapon?

    A2: approx 1000...over a period of 12 months.

     

    Q2: How cold of a climate are you operating in?

    A2: Im in ATL, but I go out shooting every month or two. I liberally lube the trigger assembly and the rest of the gun, but that seems to be hindering the trigger action, etc rather than protecting/helping.

     

    Q3: Take the trigger group out of the weapon and manipulate the moving parts by hand. Feel for gritty movements or if the parts bind at all.

    A3: I just did this and I do not feel anything grinding.

     

    Q4: I like to have spare pins and springs on hand so that I can compare the springs with a new unit.

    A4: Where do you purchase a new set of springs for the trigger assembly? Straight from Benelli?

     

    Q5: I'd try a new lubricant that is meant for cold weather environments.

    A5: I was using Frog Lube for a while until it started getting cold. However, each time i've seen the hammer almost slow, there has been a cold snap over the week before I go shooting. Also, I clean my gun, then stash it away for almost a month thinking the gun is fine. But I probably need to clean the gun regularly or the night before I go shooting. Oddly enough, I think its pointless to have a home defense weapon like the M4 when its gums up when sitting in the closet for a month or so over the winter.

     

    Q6: Are you certain that the bolt is fully seating?

    A6: Most definitely...it seats fine.

     

    Q7: Any markings on the unfired round's primer that the hammer dropped on?

    A7: Actually, YES. I came on this site after today's visit to the range when I noticed the PRIMER had a very light dent from the firing pin. It looked as if the firing pin was ever-so-slightly hitting the shell's primer. I assumed it was a dud until it happened a couple times. I wanted to blame the crappy shells, but the NobleSport Shells I purchased seemed fine. Link to the shells (http://www.ammunitiontogo.com/product_info.php/pName/250rds-12-gauge-nobelsport-hunting-2-34-3-14-dram-1-18-oz-7-12-shot-ammo/cName/12-gauge-birdshot).

     

    Maybe the shells?

  5. Quick Questions regarding lubing the trigger assembly. I noticed you have points on the trigger assembly where you recommend lubing. Let's say one has been lubing many areas of the trigger assembly other than those noted. Would that be a reason the trigger starts having issues hitting the firing pin when the temp gets cold?

     

    I wasn't sure where to lube, so I started lubing all of the trigger assembly points that have springs, etc.

     

    If this was a mistake, how would one completely clean the trigger assembly...by disassembling the whole thing and cleaning all the parts with solvent? Also, is there any type of lubing to the trigger assembly you recommend outside of the ones noted in this documentation?

  6. Thanks for the info guys and gals. Just wanted to let you know I finally got a chance to test some 3.25 dram 12g bird shot rounds and the M4 didn't jam once.

     

    Here's a little gun porn..

     

    BEFORE...

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]2028[/ATTACH]

     

    AFTER... ;)

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]2029[/ATTACH]

     

    I love my M4....

  7. That comes with the correct length spring, so you're good to go with that kit, ( aside from needing a heat gun. )

     

    I ordered the same thing for mine, but decided to replace the follower with one from FFT, too.

     

    So I assume using a heat gun is to seal the tube into place or remove the old tube?

  8. The only thing odd about using an M4 for trap/skeet/sport clays is the odd looks you'll get from the folk shooting 391s. :p

     

     

     

    lol - i think those are the rentals they offer at the range. Kinda like the old used-up driver they offer beginners at the driving range. BAZINGA!

  9. How well lubed is your M4? How broken in?

     

    Low recoil 1 oz shells are pretty light to cycle the action ( a well lubed, well broken in M4 may cycle them reliably), simply go with a higher pellet load (1 1/8 oz or more), standard recoil shell (higher dram) and see how well it works.

     

     

    I lube that sucker up pretty good with Frog Lube. I just recently loaded these rounds in my Shopping Cart. I did some reading on the DRAM rating and I think a 3.25 Dram, 1290fps 12g round will do. Ill check it out next range trip and get back with you.

     

    Link to rounds from AmmoToGo.com

    http://www.ammunitiontogo.com/product_info.php/pName/25rds-12-gauge-estate-2-34-3-14-dram-1oz-8-shot-ammo/cName/12-gauge-birdshot

     

    Thanks for the quick reply...

  10. This might sound a little odd, but I take my Benelli M4 trap or skeet shooting regularly. Today, I was using the shells they sell you at the range (Low Recoil 12g, 1oz #8). Out of the 75 shells I shot, 4 or 5 of them jammed in the barrel so bad I needed to use my needle nose pliers to pull the shell out of the barrel.

     

    Assumption 1: I assume the low recoil shell doesnt have enough kick to push back the slide far enough to completely eject the spent shell.

     

    Assumption 2: I also assume I need a different round with enough kick to push the slide (not sure thats the right terminology) completely back to eject the shell.

     

    I spoke with my local armorer, he recommended using a shell made for real game instead of a shell labeled "target", "clay" or "sporting".

     

    I am looking through various bird shot vendors, but I want to make sure I buy a bulk load of the right ammo.

     

    Any suggestions as to what ammo I should use?

     

    My home defense rounds are PDX 12g 00 Buck, so I think Im good there.

     

    Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

  11. I recently purchased a SIG716, SIG P220 and a Benelli M4. Ive used Frog Lube each and every time I've cleaned my guns. I love Frog Lube because not only is it for lubing, but you can also use it to clean all the mechanisms in the firearm. I just wish it wasn't so expensive.

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