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notrabmas

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Posts posted by notrabmas

    bolt is locked to rear will not release

    in Benelli

    Posted

    Do you have a new top rail installed? You may have not taken the washers out of the OEM rail and put them in the new top rail. This caused the 5 screws to protrude into the receiver and catch and lock the bolt back. Happened to me when I installed my Sidearmor Mod 3.

    Reflex sites

    in Benelli

    Posted

    As I posted earlier, I'm using an A.R.M.S. #31 mount on the OEM rail with no issues so far. AFAIK it's just the LaRue that is incompatible with the OEM rail.

    I've heard that most optics won't work with the OEM, but I could be wrong. That's why I thought everyone changes theirs. I guess YMMV though.

    Reflex sites

    in Benelli

    Posted

    SD - is it Larue Tactical LT661 mount?

    BTW Probably will not be the same when mounting on the OEM rail? I think yours is aftermarket - carriercomp?

     

    It is the LT661, but optics don't work on the OEM top rail. You have to buy an after-market one (Carriercomp, Freedom Fighter Tactical, or Sidearmor).

    Reflex sites

    in Benelli

    Posted

    Ever think about getting the Larue low profile mount for the T-1?

     

    I like the Micro T-1 too; also using SureFire Dueck off-set BUIS.

    Finally, Tennebraex just made the ARD kill flash for the T-1 available.

    Screenshot2013-05-26at90005PMaa_zpsa0f27b83.jpg

    Screenshot2013-05-26at90018PM_zpsab09b9b5.jpg

    froglube

    in Benelli

    Posted

    I've used it before and it works perfectly. It's especially nice that you don't have to wear gloves either. I've looked at the forums with the mold problems, but I personally don't think there's enough evidence to say it was the reason mold was growing.

    Stupid Question about the M4

    in Benelli

    Posted

    So should I put lube just there? Or all over it?

     

    Yes, it will break in with use. Lubricant helps a lot.

     

    014-1.jpg

     

    in this shot, it shows the hammer hook engaged on the trigger sear. To the left is the disconnector. When the hammer is cocked, and the trigger is held to the rear, the hammer hook is forced against the disconnector until the spring loaded disconnector pushes to the rear and captures the hammer hook. The hammer remains on the disconnector until he trigger is released. You'll hear an audible click when it disengages the disconnector and engages the trigger sear.

     

    Apply oil on the disconnector where the hammer hook makes contact.

    Stupid Question about the M4

    in Benelli

    Posted

    I found out about it when I took the trigger group out. That makes a lot of sense on why it is stiff; the gun is pretty much brand new and has had about 15 rounds through it. Besides oil, will shooting the gun loosen up the disconnector? What about cocking the bolt back while the safety is on to loosen it up?

     

    Try creating this problem with the trigger group pulled out of the weapon. Cock the hammer with your thumb in safe and fire. Try pulling the trigger in fire, pull and hold the trigger to the rear, and recock the hammer. This will engage the disconnector until you release the trigger.

     

    If the disconnector is what is causing the hang up, try some oil on it. Sometimes a new gun just needs broken in. I recently worked on a new 11707 that was really stiff in the trigger group area even after I swapped the fire control out for a FFT set. After oiling and working the action for a while, it smoothed out significantly.

     

    Oh yeah, don't let the hammer drop when the trigger group is out of the receiver. You can hold the hammer with your thumb to allow it to move forward.

    Stupid Question about the M4

    in Benelli

    Posted

    I found out the reason mine is stiff is because when the safety is on, the thing that hold the hammer when it's cocked doesn't allow any movement since the trigger can't be pulled. When the safety is off though, it allows it to move so that the hammer can be cocked. I hope this doesn't mean mine has a problem.

     

    Umm, I guess I'm trying to say when I pull back the bolt to load a shell (the hammer is foreard) and the safety is on, it's slightly stiff when the bolt reaches the hammer. When the safety is off, I can pull the bolt back (with the hammer forward) with no resistance. I just lubricated the gun yesterday too.

    Stupid Question about the M4

    in Benelli

    Posted

    Umm, I guess I'm trying to say when I pull back the bolt to load a shell (the hammer is foreard) and the safety is on, it's slightly stiff when the bolt reaches the hammer. When the safety is off, I can pull the bolt back (with the hammer forward) with no resistance. I just lubricated the gun yesterday too.

    Stupid Question about the M4

    in Benelli

    Posted

    Huh, that makes sense. One more question that's unrelated, you can't pull back the bolt if the safety is on, right?

     

    Lift the elevator and place your thumb on the inside of the shell stop. This is the part that actually holds the rounds in the magazine. Press the front of the shell stop inward. You may also need to press the shell into he mag tube to relieve tension. As the shell stop pushes in, the shell will eject, pushing your thumb out of the receiver and the round will fall into the palm of your hand. On some weapons, this is harder to do than on others.

    Finished building my M4

    in Benelli

    Posted

    Haha, that was me. Did you put in the stock washers OP?

     

    Sidearmor is a good thing to check. There was another user on here that did not put the stock washers from under their stock rail under their sidearmor and the screws were then protruding into the receiver and jamming up the bolt...

     

    Remove your bolt and see if there are and scratches on the top of it for one... feel in the receiver were the screw holes are and make sure there is nothing protruding even a little.

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