notrabmas
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Posts
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Posts posted by notrabmas
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Huh. Still, one moldy gun isn't enough to turn me away from the stuff. If there are more incidents, I would consider it.
There are two recent reports of Frog Lube growing mold. http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/9270041023 -
Should have said that this for my Benelli M4 haha. I've found videos on how to clean a shotgun, but they used oil instead of CLP. I know how to take apart the Benelli and everything, I'm just not entirely sure how to use it because the paste is thick (like car wax) and the liquid appears to be thicker than oil.
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Hi everyone,
I bought some Froglube CLP paste and liquid and I am not entirely sure how to use it. I've used oil before, but I'm not sure how to use the paste and liquid. It came with a soft cloth and paint brush. I assume I should apply the paste to the choketube, put the liquid on a patch and run it through the barrel with a jag, rub the paste on the bolt, and lastly, put some of the liquid on the trigger assembly with the paint brush? I know I am supposed to heat the parts, apply the CLP, and then wipe off any excess CLP after 30-60 mins. Also, I don't have to wear gloves when I use it right?
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Like an original stock-version Benelli M4 stock? I have one you could buy. PM me if you're interested.
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Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the point of the Benelli M4 to be able to fire pretty much anything (except sabot slugs)? I'm pretty sure the factory choke can fire slugs and buckshot.
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Did you look at he Velcro 3gunner side saddle? They weigh nothing when shells are removed.
A true spec top rail is a good choice if you're going to mount something. I like the lightweight carriercomp of the FFT copy.
Mounting a light is tricky. I've struggled with it on the m4 for 9 years. I've thought about building some of the mounts I made to sell, but I wasn't really sure if anyone was interested. I sent the set I made off this morning to be professionally Cerakoted so they will look better!
Pay close attention to how much weight you are slapping on the M4. It's easy to turn it into an overweight pig.
The weight feels pretty good so far, I would consider the other ones if I hadn't spent $350 on it haha. I feel obligated to use it because of the cost. The only think I really have left to add is an Aimpoint Micro t-1 and a surefire x300.
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Wanted the side saddle, a mil spec rail, and I planned on adding a flashlight. I know your set up you made is perfect for a flashlight, but I am definitely not handy enough to do it. Will do on everything you told me.
The barrel is probably fine. At worst, there is a small mark where the screw made contact. The mark would be concealed when installed anyway.You should be torquing the rail screws to 16-18 inch pounds. You want to tighten them like you do the lug nuts on a car. Don't just crank one down and move on. Put each one in loose, the. Start snugging them up. Blue locktite is recommended. I would also wire brush the fasteners clean, then prep them and the receiver with locktite primer.
Guessing at the torque needed is dangerous. Either it will be too loose and shoot loose, or you risk stripping the fine aluminum threads. You won't be happy if you strip the threads. You'll have to find a gunsmith to install helicoils.
Those SideArmor rails put a lot of weight and strain on those five finely threaded holes. They get shocked each time you fire the weapon since it is bound to the barrel. If you could watch the weapon fire in slow motion, you'd see the entire top rail flex.
What did you add the SideArmor rail for anyway?
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1 more question though. How do you take the barrel off with the sidearmor rail system on? Do you just turn the knob? Are you supposed to use loctite on all 8 screws (5 on the receiver, 3 in the front clamp)?
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Found the washers in the original rail. The bolt was slightly scratched, but it is not damaged at all. Thanks again everyone. I don't know what I would do without this forum haha.
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It was the screws in the receiver. Mine didn't come with any washers though. I just used the factory screws with locktite.
Edit: Should I file down the screws?
Your warranty is fine.Why the barrel won't pull free is odd. I assume you have take. Off the magazine cap and loosened the knob on the front of the SideArmor rail. I'm wondering if the fasteners holding the rail to the receiver are installed correctly? If the screws are too long, and entering the barrel, they could be binding the barrel. Try backing the screws out several turns each, and try to pull the barrel.
Look at the Sidearmor instructions and see if you're supposed to use the washers from the factory rail.
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The sidearmor system does interfere, but the part that does interfere was removed and the barrel still doesn't come off. The retaining but is off, as well. I'm starting to think somehow the barrel is stopping the bolt from releasing.
To take off the barrel you simply remove the retaining nut on the front of the mag tube and pull the barrel assembly straight off. I pull and lock the bolt back first.I don't know anything about the sidearmor rig and if it interferes or not. If so, take it off and leave it off until you figure out what's going on with your M4.
BTW - I have had 3 M4s now, each one fed Walmart Bulk Pack with no issues. I have heard others have had issues.
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Hi everyone,
I'm going through some problems with my M4 I have no clue what to do. I recently bought one (3 days ago) and installed the Sidearmor Mod 3 rail system, used locktite on the threads of the screws and everything. However, now I have no clue how to take the barrel off. I know you are supposed to turn the knob and it loosens the front. My second problem is I fired it for the first time today (fired about 7 birdshot loads which all failed to eject [kinda expected them too]) and then I put 1 slug in the chamber and fired it. After I did, I went to put another slug in the chamber, but the bolt is retracted all the way in the receiver and stuck. I pushed the bolt release, but it didn't do anything. I took out the trigger assembly (which was difficult because of the bolt) and it wouldn't budge at all. I know I should completely field strip the gun, but I can't take off the barrel. What do I do?
Also, does putting on the sidearmor system void the warranty?
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Not meaning to be pedantic or an arse in any way but you are turning the stock the correct way and not tightening it, right?
Turn the stock counterclockwise, right?
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I went to the main Benelli website (in a mobile version) and clicked on the link at the bottom that says to go to the full website. It allowed me to go straight to the forum. This is on an ****** btw.
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll try it again tomorrow.
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The Trigger Assembly must be removed.
After that, I've never had an issue. Removed many of them.
I removed the trigger assembly too. Mine must be on super tight.
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I tried with a friend and it didn't even budge. I'll have to try the vice tomorrow morning. Was it this hard for you?
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I'm trying to remove the stock on my Benelli M4 to change it to the Urbino stock, but no matter how hard I try and screw off the stock, it won't budge. Any advice? I know I'm turning it the right way and I have it completely stripped besides the stock.
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It has a lot to do with how big a Benelli dealer your LGS is, mine sells a lot of Benellis. He had M4s in stock the day I ordered mine, just not what I wanted.
Ahh that makes a lot of sense then. Hopefully mine comes in early.
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I receive mine about three weeks after I ordered it.
Wow, I don't know what's taking mine so long.
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That is what I paid for mine in January as well.
Have you received yours yet? I was told mine would arrive sometime in mid-April or possibly later.
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I ordered one from my LGS for $1699 in the beginning of January. Maybe I was lucky?
Finished building my M4
in Benelli
Posted
Did you use buckshot and slugs or target loads?