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les_garten

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Posts posted by les_garten

  1. 17 minutes ago, RxArms said:

    Thanks!  I’ve been asked about the SBS.  I haven’t looked at the mlok spacing, and I don’t have a 14” barrel to test out as that is illegal in Canada (14” barrel semi auto).

    chances are slim… 

    however, it might be possible to hack off some front slots with a good aluminum cut off blade, and debur and then do a touch up annodizing kit on it.

    m4 barrel is 18.5 inch, so I guess the SBS would need a heat shield that is 4.5” less. Just measured and you’d lose the front 3 slots.

    maybe I’ll try to make a few during the production run and I’ll send one off to someone to test… :)

    Get some good measurements from some folks here and it looks like you could do that, clever fellow that you are.  Isn't the muzzle end floating?

    • Upvote 1
  2. What is a M4 T-Pro?   

     

    It looks like a Europe only thing.   I was wondering if anybody knew if some of the different parts on it fit  the "Regular" M4?  Like the Bolt release?

  3. On 12/31/2020 at 2:30 AM, StrangerDanger said:

    The issue lately seems to be the polymer OEM trigger frame having a wandering or new spec. Lately I haven't seen any of the polymer frames function with the FFT trigger kit. You're hammer is definitely hanging on the disconnector shown in your photo. This is the exact issue I usually see and I've rebuilt around a 100 of these trigger packs.

    You have three directions you can go to fix this;

    1. Buy an A&S Engineering trigger frame. They copied the original OEM aluminum frame specs which allows these trigger kits to drop in.

    2. Return the FFT trigger kit, and send your polymer OEM frame to Briley. They fit their parts to the OEM polymer trigger frame. This could also be done with the A&S Engineering frame.

    3. Try to remove material from the FFT hammer seer. Not an ideal solution since you'd be removing surface hardened and NP3 plated material from the seer contact face.

    Personally, I would go with the first option. You'll really like the A&S Engineering trigger frame. It will also count as another US made part.

    https://ansshotguns.com/?product=enhanced-trigger-guard-benelli-m4

    SD, If i get the AS Housing and send it off to Briley for their trigger, that parts would i have to buy to leave my poly trigger group stock?  Safety I know, I have a Tararn Tactical lifter as well.  What would the additional parts cost?

  4. I bought the M4 mainly as a Bear Defense gun for my retirement dream of RVing to Alaska.  Has anyone taken an M4 into Canada?  I have all the bits that should make it legal like a Field stock and 5 rd mag, etc.  It's not clear to me if I could take it.

  5. 8 hours ago, SSP said:

    Thanks Les_Garten! So ironic, I ordered dummy shells yesterday. Per your recommendation, will have to test the spring action of the tube and cartridge drop button with this method.

    The ghost load actually seems more intuitive as you’re sneaking a round in  the ejection port in that instance? Will practice the former and let you know. Been an over-under guy most my life with shotguns so this is green as a blade of grass to me

     

    Good deal!  The thing to remember is that if the trigger has not been pulled, ie as in discharging a round, a shell won't drop unless you hit the shell drop.

    So to get a shell moving...   Pull trigger, shell drops at the same time.  Or hit shell drop, and shell drops onto the lifter.   This is handy if you are cocked and chambered with 00, and want to load a slug.  You rack out the 00, then rack again to lempty the shell lifter, and then you can put the slug in thru the ejection port without loading another shell off the now empty lifter.  This is what you want to get down when you play around with the Dummy rounds.

    Welcome to the Benelli M4 Fraternity!

  6. Ohh, I don't know why it tells you to hold back the bolt BTW.  You can lock it back.   Also, not simultaneously, just pull the bolt back and then hit the shell drop.  Get some dummy's and play around with it, it did that soon as I got the gun.  Much fun can be had there!

    • Upvote 1
  7. I'm not the most knowledgeable person to respond to this but I'll give it a try and make a suggestion.

    The M4 has an interesting and sometimes confusing "manual of arms", at least to me, a non shotgun type person.

    It is saying indirect because you are loading the magazine and then letting the shotgun action load the chamber.  A direct load would be to pull the bolt back and drop a shell in through the ejection port, let the bolt go and the shell goes directly into the chamber.

    You have to know about the cartridge drop because if the trigger has not been pulled and the shotgun has been cocked, you can rack the bolt all day long and it won't load a shell unless you hit that cartridge drop.   This can be very handy for switching out slugs and buckshot. 

    So a suggestion would be to buy 4, or 5 or more Dummy shotgun shells and play around with them.  Will help with your next task which is to learn Ghost Loading, it comes after the indirect loading lesson!

    ?

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 1
  8. 1 hour ago, Kahamu said:

    True. I kept my m600df on my m4 for now. I'll have to check the clearance once I'm able to snag a rein 2

    I kept the M600DF on my M4 as well.  The Rein is a bit large, and it is a thrower more than a Flooder.  I like the Surefire cause it's a good compromise for a shotgun.  The Rein will go better on an AR maybe.

  9. 22 minutes ago, Milspec said:

    Son of a B!  Every time I buy something the next best thing comes out.  It happened with my Elzetta and now the Rein!

    70k candela is a big boost.  Lumens dropped to 1,100 not that it really matters.

     

    I have 3 different levels of Elzetta strength.  I use them still on occasion to look in a closet or a crevice.  I cannot believe how much more light I have gotten used to.  They seem like incandescent now!

    • Like 1
  10. On 1/2/2022 at 4:05 PM, SHARP1983 said:

    Anyone have a set they don't need and willing to sell? Gonna try stippling but I want a spare set Incase I screw up ?

    I've got an extra set I could send you, but I'm hanging onto them in case I screw up my DIY stippling job.

    My practice runs have not been pretty, so maybe you shouldn't rely on mine...  

    ?

  11. 8 hours ago, kilyung said:

    I stick a short cleaning rod up the recoil tube while stuffing the spring back in. Doing it so makes me not care about the drainage hole and I won’t be dunking my M4 in water any time soon.

    If the drainage holes are a concern, it wouldn’t be difficult to drill them in.

    Once the spring is in, getting the retaining screw back in is made easier with Doge’s retaining screw driver tool. 

    I do see how the lack of hole may make the Doge tool even more interesting...

  12. 1 hour ago, rubicon20032003 said:

    There’s no drainage hole to help compress recoil spring.

    Can you explain what you mean here?  I'm pretty ignorant about the M4 compared to most of the guys here.

    I did open it up and play around with it.  It certainly solves the issue I had with the LOP.

  13. 1 hour ago, rubicon20032003 said:

    Only thing bad is there shipping item out is slow .I bought one a few days ago and still hasn’t gone out 

    Interesting, I bought mine on Saturday, shipped Monday.   This is not going to be an Amazon prime type experience though.  Small company making a few one off parts for Benelli Nutz...

    Mine is supposed to be here Friday.

    • Upvote 1
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