Steve Rose
-
Posts
234 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
15
Posts posted by Steve Rose
-
-
One other thing....I have seen some of that cheaper Federal ammo that has slivers of the plastic hull protruding around the metal rim. That can cause the shell to not seat fully into the chamber and stop the bolt from closing. Inspect a few boxes of shell to see if your ammo exhibits that problem. I used to use the WalMart Federal ammo too but started having issues with its quality. I now use only Winchester AA ammo in my M2 and SBE. Yes, the ammo is $2 a box more expensive, but ammo related issues just don't happen now.
-
10 hours ago, YMEJake said:
My grandson worked on the farm picking rocks and more to purchase this for shooting Trap in the Minnesota High School League. Tonight I watched as his 12 ga Benelli Montefeltro mis-fired 5 or 6 times within 50 shots. They are shooting some cheaper federal ammo but come on, that seems ridiculous for a shotgun in this price range. Another on the team has the same problem. Might be the ammo, but nobody else has problems. The worst part is that he seems to loose confidence or rhythm and misses quite a few after this happens. 3 misses for sure that one time. He is chasing that elusive 25 hits and this gun is really hurting him. Is there a cure or should I just buy some more expensive ammo? He likes the gun to the point when I offered him my Browning over and under, he wouldn't try it. Pride of ownership I guess and I like that. He has another shoot on Monday, HELP!!!!
When on the line and loading his gun is your Grandson placing a shell into the receiver then pushing the bolt release button to let the bolt slam shut? (That is the way to do it).
If he is holding the bolt handle to let the gun close slowly, or in any way hampering the gun's bolt from closing, that may be the cause of his misfire problem.
-
I looked at a couple of Benelli bolts today and did not see any with that mark. Given the location I suspect that the assembler missed the mark and hit the edge the bolt when driving the bolt handle retainer pin into place, or the bolt fell off a table somewhere along the way.
From the picture it appears to be a cosmetic issue. Unless your bolt shows evidence of a crack going into the body of the bolt I would not worry about it.
-
?
Where specifically is the missing chunk or gash?
-
I've seen several recoil pads (especially the early Limbsaver pads) that turned to goo at a certain point in their life. Reasons tossed around were bad rubber compound, reaction to the carpet glue used in some gun safes, and reaction to oil - but I've not yet seen a Benelli factory pad go soft. Maybe 15 years is the life span? I have a factory Comfortech pad on my personal M2 that is pushing 10 years old and still in good shape.
All things considered 15 years is a good run - if the recoil pad gets a good bit of use. I'd probably good with the same type of pad and hope for another 15.
-
5 hours ago, TorchRedTulsan said:
Thanks but I ordered one from FFT as soon as I saw they had them in stock. If I mangle the one I have while drilling/tapping, I'll reach out
Drill/tap a blind hole about .250” deep. (Don't drill all the way through – that can weaken the attachment of the stud to the shell latch.)
-
1
-
1
-
-
Use good quality rings. With the heavier recoil from most “turkey” load you wan to make the sure the scope stays in place. Cheap rings “might” work OK, but if they let scope move at the wrong time you can bet it will be the shot right before you call in the best gobbler you've ever seen.
Remarkable: I would be interested in know what the Benelli “maximum weight addition” formula is, and how the formula factors in the ammo's recoil impulse. Can you message more info?
-
11 hours ago, CGray97 said:
Recently picked up a vinci on trade. Love everything about the gun as I’ve owned one previously. However, took it out to shoot the other day and ran some light dove loads through it...I’m running into issues here. I ran several sets of 3 shells through the gun. Mostly Remington, a few fiochhi. What I noticed is how slow the bolt closes back after a shot goes off often causing a FTE and failure to feed the next shell and also notice how slow the gun is throwing the shells....I ran a 3” turkey load through it and it did just fine, ejected and locked the bolt back no problem. I’m curious if anyone has experienced this as well? I’ve heard maybe replacing recoil spring? Just seems with the lighter loads they aren’t producing enough power to eject and feed the next shell. Any help would be greatly appreciated and I apologize for not knowing all the technical terms.
What is the velocity (or Dram Eq.) and shot weight of the problematic ammo?
-
The rings need to be tall enough to position the scope's objective lens above the barrel or ventilated rib (scope not touch the barrel/rib). Without knowing your scope's objective size (32mm, 40mm, 50mm, etc) I can't give you a good answer. Maybe a local sporting goods store can show you a few examples to pick from and help with the decision. Also some scope manufactures have charts available recommending a ring height for their various scopes.
If I had to make a guess...when using a scope with a 40mm objective “medium” rings will often work.
-
I'm not seeing one in stock at the usual sources. You can get on the back order list at Benelli
-
Can't give you a specific without knowing which shim your gun has now...but changing to a shim that INCREASES the stock “drop” will help your move your POI lower.
Even with the max drop shim installed the SBE3 is still probably going to shoot a pattern that is 70-80% high, that is just the way the gun is designed.
-
-
If you can increase the drop and add left cast by changing shims that will help bring the POI down and to the left. The butt of the stock is like a rear sight, you move the butt (or rear sight) the direction you want the POI to move.
-
You are on the right track with your methods. You can also hold the drop lever up, cycle the bolt continuously (while continuing to hold the drop lever up) , no need to press the lever for each shell in the magazine.
-
1
-
-
34 minutes ago, blackpowder1 said:
Hi fellas,
Interesting to see someone picking up my thread 5 years after I started it. I think the confusion with the "cartridge drop lever" or the "red dot" lever on the Benellis is in part due to the fact that this option departs from the traditional operating modes of semi-auto shotguns. With the Benelli-Type actions (as well as many others like Stoeger, etc.) the gun reloads only when the action is cycled by pulling the trigger AND firing a live round. Just cycling the action does not drop the next cartridge on the lifter. You have to press the red drop-lever every time. This is a departure from the traditional operation of, let's say, the Remington 11-87 and others, which drop the next cartridge on the lifter by merely cycling the bolt. One just has to be aware of that. However, the need or advantage of having this "cartridge drop lever" option is questionable. I really can't see much purpose in it....
The cartridge drop lever sure helps in unloading the magazine tube when you want to empty the shot shells out of the gun (without pulling the trigger). The Italians will probably tell us American we've been design guns wrong for all these years ?
(glad to see you are still checking in here 5 years later too? )
-
9 hours ago, Daniel said:
I had a bad experience with that feature turkey hunting. I accidentally pressed that button walking in woods hunting with full gear on and called four turkeys in pulled the trigger all I hear is a ‘click’ and turkeys ran off. Cost me a turkey. Never understood why that button is there! Gun has never let me down before sick to my stomach.
Pressing the button and allowing a shell into the action did not cause your gun to “click”. If a shell was in the chamber your gun's bolt was slightly open / out of battery (look up “Benelli click”) or you had a dud shell.
You can press the button (aka “cartridge drop lever”) placing a shell onto the lifter when gun I cocked and a shell in the chamber with no adverse affect. Its similar to “ghost loading” the Benelli.
-
-
12 minutes ago, jimbo45 said:
That sticks out way farther than the gg&g. I dont know how it wouldnt hang up on pretty much everything. Shame we cant buy salient arms or agency arms releases they look pretty good.
The Salient bolt release button is the Arredondo part, available from several sources (requires drilling and tapping your gun's bolt release). The Agency Arms looks to be a custom part.
-
1
-
-
The bead will unscrew. You might need to using a little heat (soldering iron) to loosen Loctite. Parallel jaw pliers or a Machinist clamp works well on the fiber optic front bead. The mid bead can be a pain to get out without any damage given the really small head that wants to be held with vise grips (if you do not have a little pin vise) to remove, just replace it if needed.
-
1
-
-
Yes. The SBE2 and SBE3 bolts are same with the exception of the “anti Benelli click” parts added to the SBE3 bolt body and bolt head.
Some of the 3 Gun guys have been using the Ethos bolt in the M2 for the same purpose (the Ethos bolt has the same “anti click” design)
-
1
-
-
You can move the back end of that HiViz to the left if it helps you (you only see the end of the fiber bead with the gun shouldered) - but the best practice when shooting moving targets is to focus your eyes on the target, not the bead (in other words....don't look at the front bead when shooting)
-
1
-
-
The adjustable rear sight is specific to the SLUG BARREL
-
If the M2 is available in the configuration you want (and 3.5” shells is not part of your list) then there is no good reason to go for the SBE3.
The SBE3 does pattern high, the M2 shoots a more traditional pattern right down the rib
-
1
-
-
"Mobil" choke tubes for the SBE 1
M1 bolt question?
in Benelli
Posted
That is normal.