NoTycoon

Don't mean to steal the thread but, the 7 shot tube will hold seven shells once you trim the length of the spring. There posts on this subject on this site.

Early on, my M4 had the same issue. I determined that the bolt did not come back far enough to fully cock the trigger. I put in a lighter recoil spring to solve the problem. As I recall, in later years, I went back to the factory spring after the gun was better broken in. I have had my M4 for about 15 yrs. My only current issue is needing to use hotter loads in cold weather (Win XX low brass #8). I can run cheaper loads (Win white box, Rem Target, Estate) only in hot weather.

I was one of them. Reached out to Kenny and that was his first question.

To both of your issues, have you opened up the hole in your receiver? The spring on the Kenny bolt release must pass freely through the hole. The factory hole is too small.

J Kenny will help you with problems. He only responds thru Facebook Messenger. Reach out and see for yourself.

I did make it myself with a Dremel tool and a drill. I did the same to the rear BUIS by drilling out the two white dots. I have sold all to another member on this site.

I have put a few thousand rounds over that extension. Nothing has ever made contact. I do get a bit of carbon build up and just scrape it off at the end of the season. With the CC tube (7 rnd) and the 3 round extension, I can feed 10 in the tube. When a stage permits, I can start with 12 in the gun: 10 down the tube, 1 in the chamber, and 1 ghost load.

The aluminum heat shield is bolted to the fore grip, 4 bolts down from the top sides. Both parts are from the ATI Raven Forend package. Unfortunately, it has been discontinued, and no longer in production. The other parts of the Raven package were junk. The stock was too heavy and complex, and the tube extension and tri-rail would not stay tight. The only good parts were the Forend and Heat Shield. If you can find one, grap it. For multi-gun competition, I flip the gun upside-down and rest the but stock on my shoulder to reload. Therefore, I need the heat shield to keep from burning my left hand (either that of the MJ single glove).

Cerakote on my 3-gun collection.

Mine works. You will need to open up the size of the hole in your receiver where the button shaft goes through.

The best heat shield for the Benelli® M4 is the ATI Raven Deluxe Forend-Heatshield. They are no longer in production but can still be found from time to time. I will not part with mine. The rest of the ATI Raven kit was crap (heavy collapsing stock, tri rail that would not stay tight, etc.) but the forend and heatshield are great.

My order took 18 days back in Sept 2019. Let me know your order number and I will reach out to them on Fakebook.

Neither did I. I had to create an account just to communicate with J Kenney.

J Kenney does not communicate through email. You have to use Facebook message.

Correct, a Mesa with a cheek riser.

I shoot my M4 with a red dot. At first, I used the Scalar rail with a Triji. for the co-witness. What a confusing mess. Next, I removed the front and rear iron sights. This was better, I just didn't like the Triji. Finally, I removed the Scalar to go back to the factory rail and a Vortex Venom. I discovered that the rail could be mounted backwards to bring the red dot to wear the factory sight used to sit. I just cut off some over hang. This is my 3-gun competition gun.

The best place to mount a flashlight on an M4 is just forward of the foregrip. There are many types that will mount to the mag tube or between the mag tube and barrel. Google search for "BENELLI M4 LIGHT MOUNT"

I, too, flip the gun over to load and a heatshield is mandatory. I have an ATI Raven forend and matching heatshield. The heatshield screws on to the forend, so no modifications to the gun. Here is a picture looking down the barrel. I don't believe these are produced any longer. Note: ATI sold these as part of a full kit. The ATI Raven stock was too heavy and cumbersome, the mag extension was worthless, and the forward rail section would never stay tight. The forend and heatshield were the only valuable parts.

I would suggest getting a shorter fixed stock (Mesa Tactical) rather than the adjustable. The 7 round tube is a must and you may want to add an extension (+2 or +3). Before getting into other mods, we would need to know: What are you going to use the gun for? (Home protection, 3-gun competition, or just a Tacti-cool plinker)

Usually once a year just before the start of 3-gun season.

Merry Christmas everyone. My kids got me a CRKT Provoke Karambit. Oh what fun...

I don't know the size (and I am not going to remove that stock now that it finally holds tight). It looks to be about half an inch in diameter and fits the diameter of the screw. Just take your screw into a hardware store and find one that 1) has an opening large enough for the shaft of the screw, and 2) has teeth that will touch the face of the screw head.

I had the same issue with the Urbino stock on my M4. Then I found a External Star Washer Serrated Zinc in my tool box and mounted it on my Urbino stock retaining screw. It has not loosened since.

Don't "pull" the trigger; squeeze it. Use the pad of your finger, not the crease. Now, here is a drill for getting over the anticipation of the recoil. With red dot on your target, squeeze the trigger just enough to feel some resistance, then release the trigger back to no resistance (not all the way back out). Repeat this adding a little more pressure with each subsequent attempt. If you do this correctly, it should surprise you when the gun actually fires. Repeat the drill until you get a feel for just how much pressure is needed to fire the gun. You don't want to over pull the trigger (i.e. jam it hard into the rear position). If ammo shortage is a concern, do some dry fire practice at home. Again, you want to learn just how much pressure is needed to release the hammer. Let us know how you do.

I have these on my shooting glasses: OPTX 20/20 Hydrotac Stick-on Bifocal Reading Glasses. ?