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Birdog19

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Posts posted by Birdog19

  1. MJ -

    I did a search for REIN and see you've been chatting this up for a while.  If you purchased the pic rail piece with the IWC, then I'd think installation would be easy on either side of the IWC mount.  Remember, the screw holes in the pic rail from IWC are not along the centerline of the rail, so it can be installed "upside down" if you will, to slightly raise or lower the rail and thus your light.  If you purchased the remote light switch as well, the only thing I can think of is to get another pic rail from IWC and mount it on the opposite side of the light for the remote switch.  This will force your support hand all the way forward on the foregrips in order to get a thumb on the switch buttons.  I take that back, the IWC pic rail is not much more than an inch long with only 2 rail slots, I don't think that will be substantial enough to mount the CD switch which is pretty beefy and 2 3/4" long.  Maybe an aftermarket pic rail would work, dunno.  If you don't get any solid ideas here, I'd give IWC a call and tell them what you are trying to do.  They can be helpful!  I do like the idea of both a remote switch and tail cap switch as they support light activation while shooting from either shoulder.

    Other options is to get rid of the OEM grips and get a Briley or HAYL Rail or Agency Arms system.  All those are M-Lock and CD is Pic rail, so you'll still have challenges but easily overcome.

    I look forward to your adventure!

    • Like 1
  2. I'll be curious to see how you like the combo of a red dot sight and the orange dot on your XS front post.  The first time I shot an orange clay launched off a steel popper I was distracted for a nanosecond between the red dot and orange clay.  There were 3 such targets back-to-back during a local 3-Gun and I missed all 3 clays.  I found it distracting in the fast target acq. required for finding the clay and nailing it.  Needless to say, I as pretty disappointed in myself!!  I can't believe I just admitted that to the group -- It must be Sunday and I just went to confessional!

    8 minutes ago, StrangerDanger said:

    Those XS sights are designed to be used so you put the tritium dot completely over the X of your target rather than the top edge of the front sight post. I have a set for a Glock 36 when they were named Ashley big dots. That might be why they’re a little taller. 

    They were great for easy pick up and speed, but terrible for accuracy beyond minute of man. The front sight blade was also much wider than the oem ones so you obstruct a lot of the target. The big dots were designed more for room distances to contact shots. Push a B27 out to 15 yards and that dot obstructs the 8 ring in. 

    Agree with SD.  I have installed and experimented with several different sight combinations on my gen 1 Glock 17.  I had XS for a while and liked them fine enough, but eventually found them to be too fat as SD stated.  Same with Speed Sights.  eventually ended up with Dawson Precision using a black rear square notch and a red fiber optic post.  The notch and post are paired to give me enough vision on both sides of the post for target alignment given older eyes and reading glasses condition.

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 1
  3. It's not too tough a job but it does appear daunting at first.  It will definitely boost your confidence once completed.  Stranger's guiding light is as always, awesome. 

    I think the most difficult part of all is getting all the parts lined-up to insert the trigger pin bushing.  The trigger pin bushing retaining pin spring (or trigger guard pin spring) can be a pain as well.  You'll notice that the trigger pin bushing has slots cut into it, one on each side.  I've found that if you line up the jaws of the pin spring so that they feed into those slots it is much easier.  Just line everything up and put you thumb over the pin and the spring to hold everything in-place and use a flat head screw driver to push it and seat it in- place.  You might want to play with those 2 pieces before even starting the re-assembly just to see how they work together and how tight they fit.

    Good luck, we're all depending on you.

  4. Fett -

     

    Welcome back!

    I'm running the CC mag tube and that's what people seem to lean toward.  The Briley CF is pretty new but it is being used a bit too.  I haven't heard anything negative about either tubes on this forum but others may disagree.  Seems like aesthetics (color) and weight are the biggest drivers of choice.  I have not seen anything on poor fit or workmanship for any option mag tube, but over to others for their experience.

    Along those lines, here's what I have for 7-round mag tube weights:

    Nordic:  10.5 oz

    FFT:  5.6 oz

    CC:  5.3 oz

    Briley CF: 3.4 oz

    If you go with a CC tube you get the follower and Wolff spring as well.  I think I am running a cut-down Nordic spring I got when I went with a 12 round tube.  It works and the Wolff spring is still in its packaging awaiting its turn.  Some folks get a little antsy about cutting down springs but there are some good and varied post on here about that.  Bottom line IMHO, it's not a big deal.

    Nice work on listing all the links from past posts!!  I try to save all the helpful links on a word doc for quick reference when needed.

    ATB, Birdog

     

    • Upvote 1
  5. Rudy -

     

    Search "slings' in this forum and you ight be able to find a post that discusses your exact concern.  Actually, it's all of our concerns with a non-collapsible stock, you can choose to go with 1 of 3 other options.  1)  yo can replace the 1" sling receptacle with a Noveski quick disconnect plate.  I've recently completed this task and there is much discussion on this forum.  3)  there are sling attachments that include a buckle to attach to your sling that will take you from standard sling (1 1/4" - 1 1/2"width to 1" Benelli M4.  3)  Go to Blue Force or Magpul and research their options for sling and attachment points and decide which way to go.  But, before you do, search this forum for content on such matters....it has been discussed before!

  6. Heynow- Dude!  You are well on your way.  Guessing you've been scouring this forum for recommended M4 accoutrements and builds.  If so, nice work. 

    The Dave's Metal Works speedbar works just great.  Though, everytime you disassemble the gun for cleaning you'll hear that familiar cling-clang of Dave's "Redneck Tactical" speedbar falling on the floor.  Same with reassembly, "Oh shit, I forgot to put the speedbar in".  It does work very well though and at a fraction of the cost of GG&G.  I had one on my M4 for a few years but finally "upgraded" to a GG&G shell stop/bolt release combo.  They are pre drilled and ready to go..., when they are in-stock that is, a key condition there.

    You'll like the Dave's MW safety in combo with the A&S safety spring.  The way A&S trigger housing allows for the safety and spring install is nice and easy.  Some have notice the pressure to disengage the safety is possibly too light.  My jury is still out, but I have noticed just handling the gun and resting it on my knees, lap, whatever, has disengaged the safety.  Something to look for.

    You are on your way!

  7. 2 hours ago, rhodesengr said:

    A good way to practice with your gun is to find a local trap range. Get #8 (or 7.5) target rounds like Federal Topgun, or Remington Gun Club. M, IM, or F are good chokes for trap. 

    I agree.  Either trap or skeet is a great way to work on malfunctions, tactical re-loads, emergency re-loads, shell change-out, etc.  Get a shell pouch  https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015017764?pid=538068  or a fanny back will work and set a full box of shells in it with the carboard lid ripped off.  You can pre-arrange all the shells to be oriented in the same direction if you want.  Then have a friend start throwing clays as fast as the throwing machine will cyce them.  If shooting skeet, they can launch either pairs or singles.  If he's hand slinging them that will work too with a bit of practice on the thrower.  Mix a snap cap into the mag tube to practice the "dry-click" and then cycling the bolt with both weak and strong hand.  Load only a few in the tube and practice topping-off or recharging a dry gun.  You'll learn to differentiate the sound the gun makes after the last shot with the bolt locking back.  This kind of training gets your blood boiling and in a good way, for sure!

    The first time I did this was with a 12 round mag tube giving me 12+1.  My buddy kept pulling and I kept a shooting.  After 13 shots and seeing the sky filled with clay "flak burst" it was nothing but school girl giggling!

    I'm no expert on chokes but I've got a Carlson cylinder choke in my gun with zero restriction for home defense using 00 Buck.  For a 30'+ HD shot I'm not sure what would be more better but I'm open to suggestions.  If shooting trap, I'll use a more restrictive choke like modified.  There are guys running tactical or door breacher chokes that seem to claim a reduction in muzzle rise due to the porting.  I have no experience in that.

    Another though.  It's your first gun and an expensive one at that.  But, don't treat it like a baby, run it hard like a tool and make it do what you want.  I think of it like running a drill driver...loosen chuck, insert drill, reverse the drive to tighten chuck and drill the hole.  Reverse the drive and loosen chuck, replace with driver, reverse the drive and tighten the chuck, run the screw into place.  Rinse and repeat.  I know, I'm weird.

    You just need to get that thing heated-up!

    • Like 1
  8. I'm going to take a minute to address what Shekkie said in his last paragraph and set a slightly different course:

    Shekkie said, "The biggest thing I’d stress is training. The best firearm/ammo does no good if you are fumbling and unsure of how the weapon functions. Getting to the point where everything is automatic is the goal."

    Break-in the gun with more powerful loads and break yourself in as well.  I'd buy a box of dry fire Snap Caps to practice manual of arms.  I purchased a box containing 9 rounds from "B's".  One thing I don't like about them is they're about an 1/8" shorter than regular live rounds, but this doesn't pose a significant problem.  Nine is a good quantity because you can have 1 chambered and 7 in the tube and another ready for a tactical reload.

    While boring, I'd read the manual thoroughly to learn the mechanics of the gun.  If you can get a copy of the USMC M4 Operator's Manual, do it.  OPERATOR'S MANUAL FOR THE SHOTGUN, COMBAT 12 GAUGE, SEMI-AUTOMATIC M1014  (1005-01-472-3147).

    Things you'll learn:

    a)  You just can't rack a round from the mag tube unless you depress the shell release lever first to put a shell on the carrier.

    b)  With a bolt locked back and empty chamber, you can insert a shell through the ejection port and momentarily press down on the round then remove your fingers.  The bolt will run the shell home as soon as you release the pressure without snapping your fingers and you don't need to use the bolt release button.

    c)  How to unload the gun without repeated racking and cycling each round through the chamber then ejecting.  You can't just do that like Chuck Connors (The Rifleman) did to unload the gun, you have to hit the shell release lever every time before racking (see a) above).

    d)  How to Ghost Load a round on the shell carrier.

    e)  How to change-out a chambered round for a better option, e.g. changing out buckshot for a slug.

    f)  And a whole lot more.

    I'd also look at some 3-Gun videos on Youtube to checkout their reload techniques.  They rarely (if ever) use M4s, but some techniques translate well.

    I've been around guns for most of my life and thought I knew a thing or two about a thing or two, but you need to understand your Benelli M4 manual or arms.  I learned the hard way after fumbling and bumbling.

    Of note:  This forum is awesome for sharing lots of great info for maximizing the utility of the M4, but techniques for manual of arms is somewhat lacking.  Maybe most members think that we all know our shit when it comes to running and gunning but I am witness to the fact that this is not always true!

    Best of luck.  Sorry so long!

     

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 4
  9. 11 hours ago, Shekkie said:

    It took me less than 1/2 hour. Easy, IMO, with the Stranger Danger instructions. 
     

    Nice job Shekkie and most grateful thanks to Benelliwerks and Strangerous Dave.

    A few things to add to your most excellent range/garage report:

    1)  A 13mm 8/1.0mm nut must not be the industry standard.  I really wanted a nylon lock nut but neither Lowes or Home Depot had them.  They did have plenty of 8/1.25mm stuff.  I did manage to pick up a 4-pack of regular 8/1.0 mm nuts that worked just fine on reassembly....now what do I do with them?  On another note, I didn't see a lot of inventory on their shelves; lots of empty holes...my first reality check that COVID has hit the manufacturing and logistics pipeline.  The Chinka'nese hit our Lines Of Communications!

    2)  The Mutherland must have been saving money on blue Loctite as I was able to remove the stock bolt nut without heat or retard strength (per SD).  There wasn't much Loctite to remove.  Easy do.

    3)  Here is where stupid must be overcome by money and time.  I inventoried my tools and found that much of my 3/8" socket tools had found other more needy homes (they grew legs).  However, the 1/2" socket drives and extensions were plentiful with the exception of deep socket metric.  Off to Lowes to get 1/2" drive deep socket metrics.  That accomplished, taking the nut of the stock bolt (stock butt end) is pretty simple as far as reach and access goes.  However, the tunnel in the forend of the stock is where you need the 10" extension.  Using a 1/2" socket set, things were pretty tight and confined getting through the tunnel.  Maybe a little petroleum jelly would have made life easier -- as it usually does in tight fitting situations....not that I'd know.  I ended up accepting defeat on taking that hill. While in full retreat mode, managed to pull the 13mm socket off of the 10" extension.  Shit the bed!  I was able to reseat the extension in the socket and slowly twist and ease all lost tools out of the stock.  Back to Lowes for 3/8" stuff.  Money, time, gas, whatever.

    4)  With a 3/8" socket drive set-up, I used the actual stock bolt retaining nut as the salve nut to remove the stock retaining plate.  As the tutorials described, tighten it down pretty good then apply heat to the retaining plate through the butt end of the stock and work it, until she likes it.  Then, all is so good.

    5)  I used my Lowes 13mm bolt as the salve bolt on reassembly and all went according to plan and as described in the tutorials.  After my cross-country travels to un-f#ck myself with the proper tools, I'd have to agree with Shekkie that half-hour to 45 mins is all it takes.

    6)  I found SD's tutorial to be excellent (read it 15 times before picking up a tool), but I also found Benelliwerks' Anatomy of the M4 Manual to be an outstanding cross reference to the task.  If you are unaware of Benelliwerks' manual, give him a PM shout.  He charges a few bucks for a PDF download version but it is excellent reading and a great pictorial-tutorial.  You'll know your gun better after reading it!!!

    7)  OBTW, The Noveski Sling Plate is NOT a full swivel/rotational quick-disconnect receptacle.  In other words, it is very much positioned and locked-in after insertion - it won't swivel once locked-in.  Only training and experience will tell if that is a deal, or not.

    Birdog - OUT!  Time to cook dinner.....

    P.S. rum-drunk

    • Upvote 2
  10. 2 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

    If you get stuck, hit me up. Hardest part is getting the 13mm nut off of the stock screw with nothing to grab it by. 

    One thing I was curious about on reassembly.  As you thread the stock retaining pin/bolt onto the threaded stock retaining plate, does the stock retaining plate bottom out on the bolt threads?  Or, is there some resistance as the retaining plate compresses the 8 retaining spring washers against the swivel plate?  You and Benelliwerks caution against over tightening because the salve nut will have to be removed once assembly is completed.  Just curious as to how much to tighten the stock bolt onto the stock retaining plate?

    And, thanks for the offer of assistance -- I may need it!

  11. 1 minute ago, Milspec said:

    Glad I could help.  ?   I noticed they actually have them in stock now.

    There is now 1 less in-stock at Optics Planet!  I've seen SD's tutorial on replacing the sling plate before and I was confused.  Reviewed it again this morning along with Benelliwerks' manual before I purchased.  I think I'm now ready to tackle the job.  Just need to pick-up a 13mm 8mm x 1.0mm pitch locking nut (slave nut) to get the job done.

    • Like 1
  12. Looks great.  I'm just about where you are with just a few components being different manufacturers or materials (titanium vs steel).  My next step, if I ever get to it is to have the loading port enlarged and shaped to make dual and quad loads easier.  After that will be to have the internals NP3 coated...am hoping the NP3 market will open up a little; sooner than later.

    • Upvote 1
  13. Here is another follow-up email from Todd at FFT:

    Al:

    As a follow-up to our email this morning - about an hour ago I received an email from my rep at Benelli about all the H20 stuff I have ordered - a ton of it - and seems much of it was considered discontinued some time ago and my orders are large enough that I'm getting the last of it.   There are a number of things on the site that will either never be back in stock, or will remain in stock until the inventory is depleted, and then gone forever, at least directly from Benelli.

    Same with the desert camo replacement gear - I've been snapping that up and it seems it too is coming to an end.

    What this means to me as far as the H20 stuff is that it is indeed all NP3.  If any of it were Cerakote, it wouldn't be discontinued.

    Hope that helps.

    Best Regards,

    Todd

    FFT
     XXXXXXXXXXXX      XXXXXXXXXX

    I could see maybe getting various components to rebuild the trigger pack, for example, but it' pretty cost prohibitive.  Also,one needs think about replacing USA parts used for 922r compliance back to OEM parts.

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