aznwhip
-
Posts
198 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
15
Posts posted by aznwhip
-
-
Damn it..... Now I want an FDE M4 lol
-
1
-
-
11 hours ago, joeryu said:
Been lurking here for a few months as I’ve been getting my build together and after countless revisions I’m close to where I want it… thought it would be time to share~
No concern about barrel heat and cable contact?
-
11 hours ago, D'zaster said:
SD, Yes the top piece of the IWC mount is reversed which allows clearance with the Agency guard. This leaves a bit more gap between the IWC halves which looks a bit odd but it's tight and holding up well so far. I have an Arasaki mount to try as well. Work in progress.....
That's actually an interesting idea. I'll try reversing mine and try to see if I like it. So by gaining that slight extra clearance, you'd still have to go with the pic rail and can't scout mount it?
-
GG&G is a good option. FFT, TTI, and Briley also have options. Agency has one, but not for individual sale (have to do the full upgrade package to get it). If you want something easier to install, Dave's Metal Works has the Speed Bar.
I have the Briley one only because I was having them do my trigger group so they were willing to do the install as well for free. Really though... don't overthink it. It's simply more surface area so as long as it doesn't protrude to the point where it might catch and suits your own individual aesthetics.. just get what you want.
-
18 minutes ago, ZarZ said:
Is that the Briley rail? Also that the 4.5" or 7" Modlite button? Also looks like an Arisaka scout mount? How you like the rail? Is it a pain to assemble/break down the shotgun?
Agency rail. Really not a big deal pulling weapon apart unless I'm deep cleaning the pistons, which I just have to undo some more screws... A bit more work, but that that much of a PITA. Would be a pain the the field but I'm not stripping down to that level in the field. 7". I had the 4.5 and was too short. Would be fine if I moved light to other side. Arisaka mount cause the Agency rail covers the IWC mount unfortunately. I prefer a remote button cause I've split thumbnail before keeping thumb on back of light button.
-
1
-
-
Modlite mod button lite.
-
New updates.... Swapped the optics from a Trijicon RMR back to Aimpoint T2 on scalarworks mount. Handstop swapped out for an Arisaka indexer. Playing around with the new Warrior Poet Society sling as well
-
2
-
1
-
-
-
Debating switching my optics back to T2. Anyone looking for a lightly used (200ish rounds) Trijicon RMR RM06 Type 2 3.25 MOA + Scalarworks mount. $500 shipped for both?
-
quality tube and parts. A bit slow to get, but quality takes time, especially with the high demand.
-
Briley Short LOP trigger group
-
1
-
1
-
-
If you want to cowitness, RMR on scalar mount works great.
-
1
-
-
12 hours ago, StupidManThing said:
Lefty?
-
why would you need to break glass in HD situation? That said, pretty sure you can also just swing the gun itself or the butt pad to break any glass.
-
1
-
2
-
-
Wtf lol. Wow that's overkill on the scales. I agree if all you want is grip from the AA, just get OEM stippled. That to me kills any reason to have AA be not adding functionality with the mlok.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Unobtanium said:
I have no issues with constant on. I turn it on. I shoot what needs shot. I turn it off. If I want to be more stealthy than that, I just eliminate all signature and use i2.
So lights on shotguns are primarily for HD situations right? Last training course I got specifically addressed signature reduction with having lights on like that. Shouldn't leave it on for adversary to be able to see you or see you coming from a different room. The preferred method is operate with momentary on/off without grip compromise.
-
16 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:
Never understood the bottom angled hand stops on the forend of a shotgun. They’re slowing you down on the reload since you can’t just slip up or down the handguard. You now have a hump to move your hand around.
I agree with this part. I ran hand stops for a bit and ended up hating it for the reason you mentioned. Switched it up for an indexer which I like much better as I can still easily slide up and down to reload by simply lifting a finger and faster back on target as I don't need to fumble with ideal grip location with the physical index point. Also when quad loading, it provides a beneficial physical stop to quickly get second load in if my hand overshoots.
Real question though... For those with OEM guard... How do you handle light activation? I see lots of people just running a straight light with rear light activation button, but constant on isn't always ideal right? Even mounted on the left side, you'd have to compromise your grip to turn on and off. I guessed you could drill into the guard to mount a remote.
-
1
-
-
https://www.libertysafe.com/products/ammo-can
Or you can get those old office paper/binder metal storage cabinets.
-
6 hours ago, Unobtanium said:
My issue is that the handguards must be removed to field strip, it then takes tools, etc. So you aren't going to RTZ any lasers, and it's an extra pain to deal with. No and no thanks.
The only thing it prevents you from getting to is the pistons.... And when are you ever going to need to strip the pistons? Everything else is strippable.
6 hours ago, pi314 said:I get that AA looks cool, but is there a practical purpose to the AA design.? I am new to all of this and would like the opinions of people who have been doing it for a while.
By chance I came across the AA handguard when it was in stock and took a pass. Is it just me or does that look like a bear to clean? One of the things I appreciated about the M4 was the elegance of simplicity and I have a personal preference for the minimalist approach. I get that it's fun to trick out a sweet gun, but some of the things I've seen seem over the top and remind me of a 4 cylinder front wheel drive fart-can coupe with a huge plastic spoiler on the rear. No offense! ?
Additional mlok rail I'd say is a practical purpose. Allows for mounting light, buttons, indexer, hand stop, single shot reload, sling mount, etc.
-
2
-
-
11 hours ago, Morton said:
Everybody has his overpriced something. I notice Dave has a 2rd extension tube for $85 and I got one from Botach for $50.
Yet having seen it, it looks too overworked. I don't think it needs that stiffening rib in the middle. I like this plain release tab. It's simple and military looking.
Then again, what is Dave's "speedbar" made of? The RxArms piece is made of 1095 hardened spring steel: You can't just hammer or bend 1095 spring steel around a die and ship it.
I wouldn't call the RxArms piece a ripoff. Not with $350 7rd tubes and $85 extension tubes for the M4 selling like hotcakes. lol
Maybe came off a bit strong in hindsight... Was just feeling ornery I guess lol.
Dave was the first to come up with that design, made in US, quality work, and quality component... At over half off the RxArms variant. The overpriced comment was referring to the product you brought up, not the rest of their lineup.
-
Overpriced rip off of Dave's Metal Works Speedbar design.....
-
3
-
-
3 hours ago, LowBoost said:
1) I plan on getting a Briley 3Gun MLok handguard. I would prefer the 13" version, which I need to remove the factory sling adapter and ring. Is there any advantage or disadvantage from 8" or 13" handguard that I may be overlooking?
Weight
3 hours ago, LowBoost said:2) It seems the Modlite M600IB is a nice candidate. Which mount would work for the Briley handguard
Any mlok mount will work. I'm partial to quality of Arisaka mounts though.
3 hours ago, LowBoost said:4) Any experience what works best between RMR, SRO or H2/T2 optic?
Didn't try SRO, but did play around with an RMR and T2, both on Scalar mounts. I preferred the RMR, bit that's personal. Both were fine and quality.
3 hours ago, LowBoost said:5) Any recommended or must have upgrades? Besides weight and looks is there any other benefit from the Briley carbon extended tube?
Sling. Trigger. CF tube if you're chasing weight savings.
3 hours ago, LowBoost said:I already have the FFT 3/4 charge handle and plan on getting the extended bolt release. Once I get the extended mag ext tube, which brand of follower, would you recommend?
Follower honestly doesn't matter much. It holds the spring and pushes the round. Not rocket science. Just get one made in the US as they're all pretty much the same.
3 hours ago, LowBoost said:I live 20 minutes away from Briley, should I just spend some extra money and have them do the trigger work and install their carbon tube and handguard? Maybe and extended carrier?
If you buy their trigger, only they can install the trigger. They won't send it to you to install. Install the tube and guard yourself... That's easy.
-
Great guard.
-
Got any sketch diagram of design?
Edit: nevermind, saw it on your site.
Best Benelli M4 Trigger?
in Benelli
Posted
1) no issues at all. Trigger (SLOP) with A&S
2) much crisper and short LOP is amazing. There's not even a question how amazing it is compared to OEM.
3)never tried shootingsight hammer