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[ATTACH=CONFIG]1912[/ATTACH] THE WINNER is "JOHN P." Congratulations !!!! Click on photo to enlarge I am going to giveaway (2) M4 Piston Gas plug O-Rings and (1) M4 Front sight retaining nut and 1 Benelli sticker to a chosen pick , I will write down every persons name who comments and randomly pick a winner. Contest ends Februany the 28th ,Winner will be notified shortly after . No Obligations, Just Post Thats All !

SONS of GUNS Benelli M4 Shotgun REDJACKET Modification FULL Auto mod !!!! Tonight on Sons of Guns on Discovery Channel !

Does anyone have experience installing the GG&G model 1350 sling plate on an M4 with the C-stock attached? From what I've read, the installation process with the Benelli import stock requires removal of the buttplate to re-locate the mounting threads inside the stock (to compensate for the 1-2mm increase between receiver and stock interface caused by the plate). I am wondering if installation with the C-stock is even possible/ advisable, and if so, does one just screw it on behind the installed plate? Also, does anyone with this setup notice the gap between pistol grip and trigger guard thus created, and if so, is it annoying? Thanks!

Here are the links thought it would be informative on how much they are going to be worth in the eyes of the beholder . http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=276014992 http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=276020011 http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=275789301 http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=275284310 SOLD http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=274881488 SOLD http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=273911868 SOLD http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=273799892

LNIB - Box was opened when I received it, but the items appear like new or unused. $350 shipped. contact me at [email protected] [ATTACH=CONFIG]1256[/ATTACH]

My M4 that i just purchased has a small button Bolt release. However i have seen pictures (primarily of the M1014, but a couple on what i believe are civilian M4) that have a much larger, rectangular Bolt release. I have done a few cursory searches but an unable to find where i might purchase this modification, does anyone know where it can be aquired? or is this not a modification for the public?

I just installed the Geissele US-made hammer (acquired through Carriercomp) on my m4, and it functions flawlessly so far. Upon close inspection, the Geissele unit I received differs slightly from the Benelli OEM in several respects. One such difference is that the surface finish on the Geissele does not coat the entire hammer: there is a small patch directly behind the rear sear (the one that engages the disconnector) which seems to be bare tool steel. It may be that the corresponding region by the front sear (trigger engagement) is similarly un-coated, though I did not note this. Did anyone else observe this on their Geissele hammer? Is this a design feature, or is the surface coating on my hammer defective? Does anyone know how the Geissele is coated (Benelli coats theirs with a phosphate, I think)?

I managed to obtain an aimpoint micro H1 at a good price, but it does not include a mount. I am wondering what those of you who run a micro on the m4 use for your base/ mount, and how you like it. It looks like there are a number of options out there: Larue LT661, American Defense T1-L, ARMS Inc. micro mount, the factory mount (where can I get one of these??), etc. I have Kip's mil-spec picatinny rail, so there should be no compatibility issues. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated!

*Note: These forums don't allow me to post more than 2 images, and the ones I posted seemed not to work, so I have to link the images as URL's. Apologies! The flickr set is available here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/86193645@N00/sets/72157626271744939/ I've read on several threads here about the importance of keeping the recoil tube clean on the m4, and I decided it would be a good idea to clean mine. After removing the stock and the circlip, I soon realized that I would not be able to remove the recoil spring retaining nut without a specialized flathead screwdriver (16mm wide by 2mm thick blade!). I posted a thread awhile ago asking if anyone knew where to get such a specialized tool, but to no avail: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25736&highlight=recoil+tube Try as I might, I was unable to locate a screwdriver of the necessary dimensions (though maybe Benelli makes a special tool for the purpose?) So, I decided to make one, and chronicled the process in case it might be of use to others. 1) Draw out the plans for your tool. I used digital calipers to take exact measurements (all in mm) 2) Obtain a length of O-1 oil-hardening tool steel (ebay), 1 inch wide by 5/16 inch thick 3) You will need some basic tools: dremel with grinding/ cutting wheels, metal files, fint-tipped sharpie, etc 4) Carefully mark out your tool as per your design. Measure twice with calipers. 5) Begin making cuts with the dremel. Obviously you should wear eye protection. A respirator is a good idea too. 6) Finish cutting: 7) File down the driver blades and slightly bevel all edges. Keep tabs on exact dimensions with calipers. 8) Drill a hole (you'll see why...) and sand with 200, 400, 800 grit metal sandpaper to finish the operating surfaces of the tool. 9) Make sure the tool fits and operates exactly how it should at this point. We are going to heat treat it, after which it will become un-machineable. http://www.flickr.com/photos/86193645@N00/5575431057/ Notice the wire that has been installed so our tool can be plunged into the depths of a charcoal furnace. 10) Next we harden. You will need: charcoal barbecue igniter plus charcoal, tongs or pliers, a magnet, oil (I used motor oil). 11) Heat the tool to 1450 plus degrees F. This means cherry red to orange. At the critical temperature threshold where the carbon and iron shifts phases, the steel will become non-magnetic. Confirm this with the magnet and tongs. 12) Once the correct temperature has been reached, plunge the tool into the oil bath: http://www.flickr.com/photos/86193645@N00/5576018360/ The tool should now be about 62-64 RC hardness. Confirm this by running a metal file over its surface; the file should not bite. Hardened tool: http://www.flickr.com/photos/86193645@N00/5576018296/ 13) Finally, we temper the tool to make it tough and resilient (and not just hard). I tempered in the oven at 450 degrees F for one hour, to get a final Rc hardness of 58-60. http://www.flickr.com/photos/86193645@N00/5576018416/ You may also use this opportunity to bake some cornbread, should you see fit. Here is the finished tool: http://www.flickr.com/photos/86193645@N00/5576018232/ It may not be so pretty (the blue indicates that it will be very tough), but it is extremely functional (fits *perfectly* on the recoil spring retaining nut), hard, and strong. Also very small, so I can carry it on my keychain. Total cost was $10 for the O-1 steel stock. (granted, I already had the tools, charcoal, oil, etc.) EDIT: In the design of the tool, the 6.5mm tab at the bottom (really 6.1mm after filing) is designed to center the recoil spring nut. I *should* have beveled and filed the tip of this tab so it could be used as a rear sight adjustment screwdriver. The 5/16 in stock is just a tiny bit too large to fit in the slot of the adjustment screw without filing. I'd also consider machining a flathead blade on the side of the tool for the picatinny rail screws, so as to have a "Benelli multitool" on a keychain.

As part of periodic cleaning, I would like to remove the recoil spring from my m4 and clean the inside of the recoil tube, plunger, and spring. Using snap-ring pliers, I am able to remove the retaining clip on the stock end of the recoil tube. Underneath this is what appears to be a threaded insert that would seem to accept a straight-edge screwdriver of the appropriate size. Do I just unscrew the insert with a (rather big) screwdriver? Is there a more appropriate tool for the job? How critical is the relative position of this insert in the recoil tube? I am guessing that is correctly loads the recoil spring, and is perhaps even adjustable to compensate for wear in the recoil spring. Any ideas/ thoughts?

Hi All, I just picked up my new m4 a few days ago and after putting a few (aluminum) snap-caps through it and 50 rounds of target load, I have noticed that ejection of the shells seems to be nicking the anodizing off the receiver, just above the bolt (with bolt closed, the scratching on the receiver is right above the "BENELLI" stamp on the bolt). I realize that this is not much of an issue, as it's only cosmetic, but I'm a bit disappointed that the finish is wearing on my brand new m4. Is this something any of you have experienced? Am I doing something wrong? I took some pictures of the wear: www(dot)flickr(dot)com/photos/86193645@N00/5442950005/ and www(dot)flickr(dot)com/photos/86193645@N00/5443552628/ (where (dot) should be replaced with . as I don't yet have link posting available to me). Thank you all for your thoughts!

Greetings all, Although I've frequented---and enjoyed---the forums in the past few months, this is my first post... It's a pleasure to be joining the community! After a lot of research and a long wait, I will finally be picking up my new Benelli M4 this week and can's wait! I am trying to understand what type of coating is on the barrel of the M4 because I want to know how to care for it properly. I've searched quite a bit, but the only information I have been able to find is that the barrel is coated with "heavy phosphate" (see pg 14 of the M1014 operator manual, available by googling "farrarsodfarm" and "USMC_M1014.pdf"....(I can't post links yet)) but not what specific kind of phosphate coating is used. There are many different types of phosphate coating, each of which requires different care. Google, for example, "heavy phosphate" and read about the different types at "engineersedge") In particular, phosphate coatings are quite porous, and will (generally speaking) easily wick moisture in the air and rust accordingly. The phosphate is designed not as an end-all protective coating against corrosion, but rather a medium in which the *real* anti-corrosion coating can be easily suspended. For parkerized finishes (which encompass many types of phosphate coatings), it is cosmoline or grease, suitably wicked by the porous phosphate finish, that prevents against corrosion. Google, for example, "xavierthoughts" and "parkerizing". So does anybody know exactly what type of phosphate coating is used on the Benelli m4 barrel? (e.g. Type M, Class 2 or Type Z, Class 1, or....) What are you M4 owners doing to care for your barrels, especially those of you who use them in moist environs? The M1014 manual linked above recommends light oil like CLP or MILITEC (see pg. 60). Is anyone slathering their barrel in cosmoline or axel grease and baking at 350 F? Thanks all for the great posts and for the help.

Hello, I'm new to the forum. I recently ( a couple of months ago) got my Benelli M4. My brother-in-law was nice enough to give me a Tacstar mag extension tube +2 for the Benelli M4. He's a dealer. I installed it. I was easy to install. I followed the simple instructions to the letter. I believe I installed it correctly. However, I noticed I can only get +1 in the tube, i.e., 6 in the tube (2 3/4 inch shells). Has this been discussed before? Am I missing something simple? It looks like the 7th shell only has about 1/8 inch or so left to go, but try as I might I cannot push it in there. The shell follower hits a stop at the end of the tube and won't go any further, so unless I do not screw it down all the way, I can't get 7 shells in there. Thanks for any help.

A couple or three years old, unfired, been sitting in my vault. Located in Southern California, can give you my gunshop's name and contact person for reference, or whatever else trips your trigger. I'm thinking $1,400 net to me, buyer pays all expenses. New to selling a gun online, will most likely post on gunbroker.com this weekend. Drop me a note if interested, let's talk and go from there. Carl

Hello All, I am new to this forum, so I apologize if I have asked a question that has already been answered somewhere else. Before asking, though, I spent a few hours searching without success to see if it has been answered already. What parts are the most likely to fail or need replacement on an M4? I would like to know what parts might be a good idea to have on hand ahead of time. As I understand it, the M4 is incredibly reliable and is unlikely to have a failure or need replacements due to wear. I am simply trying to plan ahead. Maybe another good question would be what have other forum M4 owners experienced as far as part replacement needs? Has anyone had any parts fail or wear out and need replacement? Thanks to everyone for your help!