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New Product Announcement - Benelli M4 Mount from AVATactical.com - Discount Available


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No, I just know I've never regretted buying expensive ****, because even if I don't like it, I can get my money right back out of it more than some mangled hobbled together home-brew mess.

 

I think you are math challenged here.

 

Intellibeam M600 $250

IWC Body $80 if wanted

Machine work $$

Ceracoating $$

New AVA MOUNT $$

==============

equals a Bucket of Cash

 

or if my method doesn't work $20 for a Tailcap to put me back right where I am now.

 

I didn't buy cheap **** to begin with... N'est-ce pas?

 

I did invest in what I thought was a nice mount and light.

 

Now you are suggesting a new mount, a NEW FREAKING MOUNT! and an extremely expensive light.

 

Ohhh the horror...

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I get it. If you can make your plan work and if you're happy then, go for it.

 

If you choose to go new, you could cut your above estimated costs quite a bit by going with an IWC mount and a SF M600 or M300 light, and you would not have to modify, or buy anything else to make it work.

 

The scout light bodies attach directly to the IWC mount without any mods so you don't need a Thorntail body or a modified tailcap. However, if you must have an intellibeam head on your light then, I defer to StrangerDanger, and the cost does go up.

 

I'm not trying to tell you what to do, just giving you some info you might find helpful.

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I get it. If you can make your plan work and if you're happy then, go for it.

 

If you choose to go new, you could cut your above estimated costs quite a bit by going with an IWC mount and a SF M600 or M300 light, and you would not have to modify, or buy anything else to make it work.

 

The scout light bodies attach directly to the IWC mount without any mods so you don't need a Thorntail body or a modified tailcap. However, if you must have an intellibeam head on your light then, I defer to StrangerDanger, and the cost does go up.

 

I'm not trying to tell you what to do, just giving you some info you might find helpful.

 

Thanx for that info, very useful and what I need to know if my Half Fast plan does not work.

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I think you are math challenged here.

 

Intellibeam M600 $250

IWC Body $80 if wanted

Machine work $$

Ceracoating $$

New AVA MOUNT $$

==============

equals a Bucket of Cash

 

or if my method doesn't work $20 for a Tailcap to put me back right where I am now.

 

I didn't buy cheap **** to begin with... N'est-ce pas?

 

I did invest in what I thought was a nice mount and light.

 

Now you are suggesting a new mount, a NEW FREAKING MOUNT! and an extremely expensive light.

 

Ohhh the horror...

 

IWC mount $70ish

Troll the other forums and snag a 500 lumen Surefire for $180-220, or buy new for $269.

 

Flip your current AVA mount for $100 easy

Flip your Elzetta Bravo for $150 (also making $75 or something in the process per the numbers you've told us).

 

That puts your immediate outlay at less than $100, and your long-term losses at around $25-75 depending on shipping, sales, haggling.

 

So for $75, you could have an awesome setup that won't be launching lights everywhere and won't requir you to waste ammo to "make sure it won't break". Because you know what? 50-60 rounds won't show you. A good shotgun course will. I've seen people who have G2's on M4 carbines (5.56) that worked fine for range quals, etc. have issues during a 1000+ round course. So you're always gonna be thinking...will it **** the bed?

 

Not something you buy an M1014 to think about.

 

In fact, you know what? I PERSONALLY have an IWC mount in good shape that I'd sell you for a great deal if you're interested. It's super lightly used, as in, no problems with it, I just won't lie and say it's new.

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If you decide to go the M600 intellibeam route, I can do the machine work free of charge - just cover the cost of shipping. This goes for the lamp head and the tailcap. If you wanted them painted, just pay whatever cost that comes out to be. It’s pretty cheap actually. A trip there and back in the mail is the bulk of the painting price, and most of the wait.

 

Machining the tailcap isnt necessary when using the IWC Benelli M4 Mount, but it helps keep you from jamming your thumb under recoil. The lamp head still must be machined for the IWC.

 

Machining these parts is probably a 15 minutes job for both pieces with setup.

 

It does suck spending money chasing these improvements. Even with the latest and greatest, I’m not 100% happy with the results. I hate the barrel shadowing and am actively trying to find a solution.

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If you decide to go the M600 intellibeam route, I can do the machine work free of charge - just cover the cost of shipping. This goes for the lamp head and the tailcap. If you wanted them painted, just pay whatever cost that comes out to be. It’s pretty cheap actually. A trip there and back in the mail is the bulk of the painting price, and most of the wait.

 

Machining the tailcap isnt necessary when using the IWC Benelli M4 Mount, but it helps keep you from jamming your thumb under recoil. The lamp head still must be machined for the IWC.

 

Machining these parts is probably a 15 minutes job for both pieces with setup.

 

It does suck spending money chasing these improvements. Even with the latest and greatest, I’m not 100% happy with the results. I hate the barrel shadowing and am actively trying to find a solution.

 

I can use the Elzetta on another gun, I have so little in in them, I don't want to sell them.

 

Thanx for the offer on the machine work. When I decide which SF, I'll circle back to you.

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I can use the Elzetta on another gun, I have so little in in them, I don't want to sell them.

 

Thanx for the offer on the machine work. When I decide which SF, I'll circle back to you.

 

 

You can see from the pics the quality of SD's work. I have personally done business with him as well, and I will vouch, along with many others, for his responsiveness and very quick and conscientiously performed work. If you send him something, he will do good and quick and affordable work. A total unicorn in today's world of craftsmen, those 3 things aligning.

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You can see from the pics the quality of SD's work. I have personally done business with him as well, and I will vouch, along with many others, for his responsiveness and very quick and conscientiously performed work. If you send him something, he will do good and quick and affordable work. A total unicorn in today's world of craftsmen, those 3 things aligning.

 

Definitely no flies on Stranger Danger.

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  • 4 weeks later...
During the reboot, it would be great if the mount "strap" were sized to integrate perfectly with the streamlite protac series bodies...dunno if this was already done, or not, but it would be awesome. Keyed interface, nearly. Super light, and they hold up.

https://www.streamlight.com/en/products/detail/index/protac-1l

 

Is the mount being changed again?

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  • 4 weeks later...

I don't like the barrel shadowing ether but I tried everything that Stranger danger said and with AVA along with other guys on this form and I love it.. I don't any problems with my M4 im really happy with it i can say this with all the improvements that i made to the shotgun she's up to 99.9%half dam near perfect... at this point i can't think of anything else to add to the shotgun. soon i will be sending all my guns to Robar Guns and I'll report back with pic once they are done if anyone is looking to do same job as im going to do.thanks to Stranger Danger and AVA and Taran TacticalInnovations for all the hard work that these guys do here for they make it all possible.

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  • 6 months later...

Been gone a while. Back to necromance this thread for Les Garten- You can run that elzetta with some bicycle inner tube around the tailcap of your Bravo.Torqe a pound or two extra. The tailcap is tapered and scallopped so back it out towards the stock a bit beforehand.The innertube fills the gaps and gives more surface area engagement. I also added friction tape to the under side of the mount where it interfaced with the barrell.Mines been hanging tough for a couple yrs and hasn't budged in the first AVA mount...and I shoot the m4 quite a bit. I believe elzetta machined the lights for their mount or vice versa. Either way this setup is viable.Good Luck Les

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  • 3 years later...
On 2/9/2014 at 7:12 AM, AVATactical.com said:

Gentlemen -

 

After a long hiatus from meaningful shooting (Very busy time of year for my day job), I was able to finally get out this weekend to do some significant round count.

 

Background is testing with the new Surefire slick sided lights, namely the Fury series. Previously I did some quick testing with snap rings, shrink wrap tube and the results seems positive but I wanted to get a lot of rounds down range using something even more common that I suspected would work and be a bit more scientific about it before I reported back.

 

On this same issue I worked with a client who is on this board, I won't name them publically unless they wish to talk about it as well, on a replacement sling ring which is shaped to prevent movement on the Fury lights as well. Before having any made, I wanted to test these other methods and gauge interest.

 

In any event, here are my results...

 

I put over 400 rounds of buck shot, and another 200 or so of Walmart bulk-pack down the M4 today with a P2X Fury simply wrapped in plain old duct tape with witness marks on it to show any movement.

 

Here's what it looked like when I got back to the house to take a picture of it:

QOXHoGS.jpg

 

 

Even the buck was 100 pack from Gander Mountain, so it's not the heaviest of 3 in mags, but I can't imagine if this many rounds did not move the Fury anything would or could.

 

3hLquNf.jpg

 

 

I can't see any movement in the witness marks. If there is any at all it's so negligible, it can't matter.

 

So that's my results. I wouldn't expect anybody to use duct tape like this, but if you put it on your light or mount and trim it you wouldn't be able to see it. Or you can use black shrink wrap, anything that interferes with the slick on slick surfaces.

 

This is the cost of when we combine slick aluminium lights (this being the first ones I have ever dealt with - I am sure this fury series will slide around in most other mounts as well because they are slick as well) - in slick surfaced mounts. Most mounts are designed to grip the cross hatching on lights absent on the Fury.

that is very informative man thanks for sharing, i love it 

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