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Rifled barrel


dandy

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I have just purchast a SBE2 12ga whit a smooth-bore barrel. Now im thinking of hunting wild-pigs whit my Benelli loaded whit slugs instead of my bolt action rifle, since I can fire my second shot faster.

 

My question: Is there a big differens in performens betwin smooth barrel and rifled barrel? What ranges to you shoot games on using smoot barrel and rifled barrel?

 

If I should stick to smooth barrel wich choke should I shose to fire slugs whit? (If I can get it out of the rifle :( )

 

//Dandy

 

[ 06-11-2006, 11:15 AM: Message edited by: dandy ]

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On the smoothbore barrel I would use the IC choke and no tighter. I have both types smooth and rifled. The rifiled is scoped with a fixed 4 power and I'll push it to 110 yards. The smoothbore I lose most of my accuacy after 75 yards and only a bead for sighting. So for staying within 35 to 50 yards I personally like the smoothbore in thick areas for faster target acquisition. I dont know what kind of terrain you're hunting so that's left up to you.

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Rifled barrels were going $400.00+ two years ago.

 

A rifled barrel with a sabot slug, which your "particular" barrel "likes" is reliably deadly out to 150 yards or more ... with a good scope and some dedicated practice. Your smoothbore is getting very "iffy" after 75 yards. Undoubtedly the better choice is the rifled barrel.

 

Cylinder, Improved cylinder and modified are your smoothbore choke choices. You have to test the particular "Foster" slug you chose in each to see which performs best.

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yeep And you are aloud to shoot them whit slugs :D

 

I have another issue, I cant remove the fore grip on my rifle completly It slides all the way to the end of the magazine tube, But I can't get it completly off.

 

Is this normal or, cause in the manual it says remove the foreend completly.

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Dandy,

 

The forearm should come off the gun still attached to the barrel. Are you taking the bolt handle out of the bolt at the beginning of disassembly, as the manual instructs you to?

 

It works better to remove the bolt handle first instead of trying to wiggle the barrel/forearm assembly over and around the bolt with the handle still attached.

 

Once the barrel/forearm assembly is removed away from the rest of the gun, you simply pull the forearm down and away from the barrel.

 

In regards to removing the bolt handle from the bolt, most of the time you cannot pull it out with your fingers as it says in the manual. I have a 12 inch piece of small diameter braided nylon cord that use to remove the bolt handle with. I tie one end around the base of the handle, then grasp the line and give it a pull while holding the gun with my other hand. The bolt handle comes right out!

 

[ 06-12-2006, 10:56 AM: Message edited by: Remy ]

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If your pigs are tough, and you stick with your smoothbore barrel, you might be best off with a Brenneke slug, since they do not kill with massive rapid expansion, but rather with deep penetration. If you get a rifled barrel, the Federal/Barnes bullet and Winchester Petition Gold, or Remington Corelokt Ultra, &/or Hornady's SST are good penetrators.

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I havent managed to remove the bolt handel either, but I is pretty strange that you cant remove the forend, you can pull it almost all the way, but then it get stuck,

 

Im afraid of braking something, how hard can I pull?

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From a rainy Copenhagen,

 

Benelli slug barrels are very accurate and worth the 400-500 clams.

 

My SBE I has taken many deer in Iowa at some silly distances. All deer have dropped like rocks so far.

 

Just my two kroners or whatever the heck they call their money here...

 

mudhen - CA

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Rifled Benelli barrels are much more accurate than a smooth bore barrel. A rifled choke helps some.

 

My buddy killed a 10-pt Iowa buck last year with my SBE I slug gun at 197 yards, freehand, open sights, with a Win Part Gold, the deer never moved once hit, flat out dead.

 

The Part Gold gets the credit for the knock-down power, the SBE slug gun gets the credit for delivering the slug on target...

 

mudhen - CA

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