Jump to content

Monty question?


rodburner

Recommended Posts

First off I wanted to say "Hello" to everyone. This is the first time to the site and surely not the last.

I got a Benelli Montefeltro a couple of years ago and love the gun. All I use it for is quail hunting. The first time out I was using the IC choke and the guy I was with told me I needed to change it because I was blowing limbs off the tree way up in front of us. So I changed it to the skeet choke and I don't see much difference in the pattern. My question is, is there a choke that I can buy that will open up my pattern a little? I've shot wood and water to see the pattern and it still seems real tight to me even at 40 yds. Another question I have is, can you get different shims? For me, it doesn't seem to break enough from the stock to gun. Thanks in advance for all the input and I hope to learn a lot more about my Benelli, from you guys...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First off I wanted to say "Hello" to everyone. This is the first time to the site and surely not the last.

I got a Benelli Montefeltro a couple of years ago and love the gun. All I use it for is quail hunting. The first time out I was using the IC choke and the guy I was with told me I needed to change it because I was blowing limbs off the tree way up in front of us. So I changed it to the skeet choke and I don't see much difference in the pattern. My question is, is there a choke that I can buy that will open up my pattern a little? I've shot wood and water to see the pattern and it still seems real tight to me even at 40 yds. Another question I have is, can you get different shims? For me, it doesn't seem to break enough from the stock to gun. Thanks in advance for all the input and I hope to learn a lot more about my Benelli, from you guys...

Welcome to the forum. I quail hunt down here in Texas and have settled on the improved cylinder choke. It is a bit of a compromise between skeet and mod. It gives a nice wide pattern for covey breaks and close range work, but yet holds the pattern enough for longer range shots probably better than skeet.

 

Shims: My Montefeltro Silver 20 gauge came with the "C" shims installed but I got the shim kit with it. When I mounted the gun, I was looking AT the barrel instead of DOWN it. I installed the "D" shims, lowering the stock a bit, and that seemed to help. Read the manual and it will help you through all that if you want to try it.

 

Hope you enjoy your new gun... I sure like mine!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Pro. I have the "D" shims in mine but I think I need another notch. I still have to shoot below the bird to hit them. I'm shooting high. Also, I've tried the IC and skeet chokes and can't tell any difference. I shot a piece of wood to check patterns and I can't tell one from the other. I thought there might be an aftermarket choke that would open it up a little. Thanks again for the help..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Pro. I have the "D" shims in mine but I think I need another notch. I still have to shoot below the bird to hit them. I'm shooting high. Also, I've tried the IC and skeet chokes and can't tell any difference. I shot a piece of wood to check patterns and I can't tell one from the other. I thought there might be an aftermarket choke that would open it up a little. Thanks again for the help..

Shims: To be honest, I would wish for even more stock-drop myself... wish they made an "E" shim! Wonder what would happen if we ground off the titties on the "C" shim (which prevent installing two shims) and installed it along WITH the "D" shim??? There would be a lot of 'black' showing between the stock and receiver, but it might help us get the drop we're looking for. Some of the Forum Senior experts like Tucker, M1014, Novaking, Cleefurd, etc. might have some ideas about the feasibility of this maneuver. Hope they'll respond with some coaching on this. I am still having to mount the gun pretty high on my shoulder to be able to look down the barrel, although the 'D' shim is much better than the 'C' shim for me... just not quite enough correction.

 

On the choke pattern issue: If your skeet and IC chokes are patterning the same... it makes me wonder if you might be patterning too close? Back up to 30-40 yards and see if you see a difference. Takes a little time for the pellets to spread out to their full potential for a given choke. Just a thought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shims: To be honest, I would wish for even more stock-drop myself... wish they made an "E" shim! Wonder what would happen if we ground off the titties on the "C" shim (which prevent installing two shims) and installed it along WITH the "D" shim??? There would be a lot of 'black' showing between the stock and receiver, but it might help us get the drop we're looking for. Some of the Forum Senior experts like Tucker, M1014, Novaking, Cleefurd, etc. might have some ideas about the feasibility of this maneuver. Hope they'll respond with some coaching on this. I am still having to mount the gun pretty high on my shoulder to be able to look down the barrel, although the 'D' shim is much better than the 'C' shim for me... just not quite enough correction.

 

On the choke pattern issue: If your skeet and IC chokes are patterning the same... it makes me wonder if you might be patterning too close? Back up to 30-40 yards and see if you see a difference. Takes a little time for the pellets to spread out to their full potential for a given choke. Just a thought.

 

 

Thats funny, my wife had the same idea about putting shims together but she suggested the "C" and "A" or any combination that worked. The only problem I see is we would have to make a new metal piece that goes in the stock. I just happen to work at a blacksmith shop and may try it. I can't find anything about an "E" shim so may have to do something.

As for the choke issue, if you'll notice in my first post I was shooting at 40 yds. I shot a duck and when the bb's hit the water it looked like a full choke. A guy on Hunting.Net suggested a cylinder choke. I had never heard of one until now and looked on Midway USA and found one. It's about $20 so I may get one and try it. Only other thing I can think to do is shorten the barrel and I would rather not do that. Another guy directed me to some shells called spreaders and I have never heard of them either.

If I can get my barrel dropped I think it will help me tremendously, but I do think I need a wider pattern. I e-mailed Benelli and waiting for a reply. May never get one but it's worth a shot. I may have to call them..

Thanks again, and I will figure out something if I have to take my Remington youth model hunting. Nothing more aggrevating than missing a bunch of birds....

Edited by rodburner
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats funny, my wife had the same idea about putting shims together but she suggested the "C" and "A" or any combination that worked. The only problem I see is we would have to make a new metal piece that goes in the stock. I just happened to work at a blacksmith shop and may try it. I can't find anything about an "E" shim so may have to do something.

As for the choke issue, if you'll notice in my first post I was shooting at 40 yds. I shot a duck and when the bb's hit the water it looked like a full choke. A guy on Hunting.Net suggested a cylinder choke. I had never heard of one until now and looked on Midway USA and found one. It's about $20 so I may get one and try it. Only other thing I can think to do is shorten the barrel and I would rather not do that. Another guy directed me to some shells called spreaders and I have never heard of them either.

If I can get my barrel dropped I think it will help me tremendously, but I do think I need a wider pattern. I e-mailed Benelli and waiting for a reply. May never get one but it's worth a shot. I may have to call them..

Thanks again, and I will figure out something if I have to take my Remington youth model hunting. Nothing more aggrevating than missing a bunch of birds....

Shortening the barrel would not be the way to go. A GOOD choke will cost more than $20. Check out this site:

 

http://www.briley.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=36

 

I bought a set of these and just love them. Extended-ported and they pattern great and look great. I would STILL recommend the IC for quail... Or the light modified (better for more lengthy shots). Improved Skeet is between Skeet and Improved Cylinder and would be better for closer ranges. Best of luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats funny, my wife had the same idea about putting shims together but she suggested the "C" and "A" or any combination that worked. The only problem I see is we would have to make a new metal piece that goes in the stock. I just happened to work at a blacksmith shop and may try it. I can't find anything about an "E" shim so may have to do something.

As for the choke issue, if you'll notice in my first post I was shooting at 40 yds. I shot a duck and when the bb's hit the water it looked like a full choke. A guy on Hunting.Net suggested a cylinder choke. I had never heard of one until now and looked on Midway USA and found one. It's about $20 so I may get one and try it. Only other thing I can think to do is shorten the barrel and I would rather not do that. Another guy directed me to some shells called spreaders and I have never heard of them either.

If I can get my barrel dropped I think it will help me tremendously, but I do think I need a wider pattern. I e-mailed Benelli and waiting for a reply. May never get one but it's worth a shot. I may have to call them..

Thanks again, and I will figure out something if I have to take my Remington youth model hunting. Nothing more aggrevating than missing a bunch of birds....

 

Shorting the barrel will do nothing for you. Barrel length has nothing to do with patterning of a shotgun. Your on the right track with chokes. Cylinder choke will give you the most open pattern. I think IC like PRO said will do just fine. Some one said patterning board. Excellent idea! Benelli's shoot a bit higher then american guns. This lets you see what you are shooting at better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest cleefurd

My input is only concurring with several points made above;

 

>Shortening the barrel is not necessary or advised.

>The Briley choke mentioned is superb.

>The "shot-spreader" round is interesting, and may be required if the fields you hunt have short corridors that don't let the conventional rounds open up. But first I'd find reviews on it.

 

Make one change at a time, and pattern board each one. Water and limbs may indicate where your pattern centers but don't give a good "snap-shot" of shot dispersal. Please let us know what you find.

 

Thanks for the invite, in all honesty, I may learn more than I offer with regards to the "shim" details, since I have no such adjustability in my current arsenal. I AM considering crossing over for at least one "civilzed" shotgun, and being asked to contribute to this discussion besides being flattering, is humbling too. For now I may ask my 1st question...

 

Montefeltro or M2? I already have a BPS upland special, two M4's, and an M1. Just looking for something more refined. Nothing detailed since I don't want to side track the post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shorting the barrel will do nothing for you. Barrel length has nothing to do with patterning of a shotgun. Your on the right track with chokes. Cylinder choke will give you the most open pattern. I think IC like PRO said will do just fine. Some one said patterning board. Excellent idea! Benelli's shoot a bit higher then american guns. This lets you see what you are shooting at better.

..."This lets you see what you are shooting better..." nice reply and we thank you Novaking, but after 40+ years of shooting, I HAVE to see that target ON my barrel, not above it... I'm just too old to adjust. What did you think of my extra shim-add idea to try and drop the stock? (look back up in the thread to "Monty Question). Nobody is helping here. What is your opinion? It has been my experience this forum that any kind of forward thinking becomes ignored on the forum. Even the "crusty" kick-a** dudes don't respond. Tell me I'm an idiot or to try it... whatever. Old dudes and new ideas don't often mix, I guess?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't see why your shim idea would'nt work. I think when you find the right combination of shims you might take them back off and apply a couple drops of hot glue so the one without titties ( I like that word) doesn't ever try to slide out on you. With hot glue you could always seperate them later if you wished.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been adjusting myself to shooting high but it still seems awkward. I can probably train myself on that one but I still feel like the pattern needs to open up. My dog holds birds well and I shoot extremely close range when firing at birds. Occasionally I have a longer shot but not normal. Oklahoma is pretty open and I can usually see where the birds land and pick up the singles. As for the pattern board idea, I shot an old house with the different chokes and honestly I couldn't see a whole lot of difference. Of course there's a little difference but not a lot.

Here's the choke I was looking at for around $20. I know nothing about chokes so you guys bare with me. The only shotguns I have ever owned were fixed so this is all new to me. All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!!

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=317393

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is your gun shooting high or is your gun not mounting right for you to see flat down the rib? There is such a thing that the choke threads aren't pefectly square in the barrel making the gun shoot high. or low or left or right

PrairiDog: not buying this. Shim adjustment is the answer. Tell you what I am going to do... i will put in BOTH C and D shims and see if that straightens out my Montefeltro. I will have to shave (grind) off the "titties" (lots of folks seem to love that word?) so I can slam it right ahead of the D shim. We'll see how it works. I will report later

 

"Damn the torpedos... Full speed ahead!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pattern it appropriately with paper to establish a baseline, then make the appropriate changes and pattern again. It might save you a lot of tail-chasing! (You can't even be sure of what you're trying to change!)

 

 

Banjo MD, I am sure of what I want to change. I want to change the shims and I want a bigger pattern.

Prairedog, The gun doesn't shoulder right for me to see down the rib. I see a a lot of the top of the barrel and I don't like it. In most cases I have to aim a foot below the bird to hit it, of course that depends on which way it's flying and how close it it but you get the idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

..."This lets you see what you are shooting better..." nice reply and we thank you Novaking, but after 40+ years of shooting, I HAVE to see that target ON my barrel, not above it... I'm just too old to adjust. What did you think of my extra shim-add idea to try and drop the stock? (look back up in the thread to "Monty Question). Nobody is helping here. What is your opinion? It has been my experience this forum that any kind of forward thinking becomes ignored on the forum. Even the "crusty" kick-a** dudes don't respond. Tell me I'm an idiot or to try it... whatever. Old dudes and new ideas don't often mix, I guess?

 

I think Mudhen did something like that or told someone to grind 2 shims down and put them together. I would pm him and see.

 

I like longer barrels for dove and waterfowl, and I like shorter barrels for upland and turkey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rodburner, you said "I want a bigger pattern." bigger than what? You don't know what size you have now. Establish a baseline so you can see the difference (is what I'm saying).

Your gun is shooting high if you're seeing that much rib that it is a "ramp". Establish the center of the pattern then shim the stock down; repattern and adjust as necessary.

You'll get it (unless your neck is 10" long!:D)

Good luck and keep us posted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think Mudhen did something like that or told someone to grind 2 shims down and put them together. I would pm him and see.

 

I like longer barrels for dove and waterfowl, and I like shorter barrels for upland and turkey

 

 

Why do you like a shorter barrel for upland if barrel length doesn't make a difference. It's hard for my to belive that a shorter barrel won't throw a wider pattern than a longer one. If the bb's come out sooner, I would think they would start to spread faster. Like I said before, I don't know much about this stuff but I do have a little common sense. I would definetly not cut the barrel off of a $1000 gun. (Maybe not worth a $1000 but sure cost close to that). But it was an idea.

What do you guys think about the Hastings choke?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why do you like a shorter barrel for upland if barrel length doesn't make a difference. It's hard for my to belive that a shorter barrel won't throw a wider pattern than a longer one. If the bb's come out sooner, I would think they would start to spread faster. Like I said before, I don't know much about this stuff but I do have a little common sense. I would definetly not cut the barrel off of a $1000 gun. (Maybe not worth a $1000 but sure cost close to that). But it was an idea.

What do you guys think about the Hastings choke?

 

I like short barrels because I can shoulder these guns faster for quicker shots. That may be different for one or someone else. I like longer barrels on doves because of the longer sight plane between my eye and the front bead.

 

I know nothing about Hastings chokes. I've had good luck with briley chokes and carlson chokes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rodburner, The length of the barrel has nothing to do with pattern,That is after about 17 inches. The choke does most of the pattering. try your skeet choke, that might be the best for covey rises. On shimming, your gunna have to get it shimmed to your eye.On a proper fitted gun, you ought to be able to close your eyes ,throw the gun to your shoulder, and open your eyes, and be looking flat down your barrel. While looking flat down your barrel,if the center of your pattern isn't hitting bulls eye, then the gun has other problems that need to be changed. By the way, I live in okla. where do you live.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I added the "C" shim to the "D" shim and went hunting this eveing. I hit 5 of 7 so I would like to say that it made a tremendous difference. Thanks again for the help. I would still like to have one shim instead of two if anyone had an idea of what I could make one out of I would love to hear it. I was thinking wood since it goes between the stock and gun. I work in a welding shop so I also have the option of metal too. Which one do you guys think would be best? Or do you think I should go with plastic since that's what the original ones are made of.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...