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M1 Super 90 Recoil Spring


outershell

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Hi all. I got a used m1s90 that wont cycle, and after very thorough cleaning, more testing, and some research I determined the problem is probably that the recoil spring needs to be replaced or at least removed and cleaned. I got a new spring.

 

Anyway, there's a guide floating around online on how to do this, but I'm having problems removing the nut for the recoil spring enclosure. Basically, I've got the stock off but can get no farther.

 

I read that it has Loctite applied to it, so I've tried heating it up quite a bit with a lighter and tapping the nut with a hammer. It still is stuck and unfortunately the nut is getting pretty torn up.

 

Do I need to just take this to a gunsmith? The ones around here charge $60/hour, and this is something I think I should be able to manage on my own really.

 

Any tips?

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A lighter will not come close to getting the job done. You need a torch. You can get a cheap single-bottle torch from a hardware store. Then heat the living stew out of it while trying to turn the nut with a box-end wrench. Once it begins to turn, no further problems. Just don't tattoo your forehead with a hot spring.

 

Replace the spring with a Wolff HEAVY spring, shoot the full-load shells the M1 was designed for, and don't have another worry.

 

If you've buggered the nut up too much for a box end, use vice grips. But you have to really put the heat to it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, I held the heat gun on that thing for almost 5 minutes, and still no amount of my torquing could twist that nut. Just how easily does it turn after its been heated?

 

Unfortunately, I'm starting to think I should take this one to a gunsmith. Bah

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Ok, I held the heat gun on that thing for almost 5 minutes, and still no amount of my torquing could twist that nut. Just how easily does it turn after its been heated?

 

Unfortunately, I'm starting to think I should take this one to a gunsmith. Bah

 

How high is the temp on your heat gun? The Wagner I have has two temps. Low = 750F/High = 1000F. I blasted mine on high when I was removing the mag tube for a solid 5 - 10 minutes, very close to the reciever and that thing screwed off with minimal pressure. I suggest you do the same. Put the heat on high, as close to the receiver/recoil tube as possible, let it cool, and see if that works. Remember, if your holding the receiver in your left hand with the tube pointing towards you, you should be turning the tube towards your left hand.

 

Good luck

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How high is the temp on your heat gun? The Wagner I have has two temps. Low = 750F/High = 1000F. I blasted mine on high when I was removing the mag tube for a solid 5 - 10 minutes, very close to the reciever and that thing screwed off with minimal pressure. I suggest you do the same. Put the heat on high, as close to the receiver/recoil tube as possible, let it cool, and see if that works. Remember, if your holding the receiver in your left hand with the tube pointing towards you, you should be turning the tube towards your left hand.

 

Good luck

 

 

Use the 1K*F as stated. Heat this piss out of it, you will not alter the metalurgy of this part in any meaningful way, and being as the spring is to be replaced, it is not considered of consequence.

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Thanks, the heat gun I have is 750/1000 as well, and I was actually using the low setting. I'll switch it to high and heat that thing for 10 minutes. I'm actually pretty good with mechanical stuff; I'm mechanical engineering student.

 

So, I'm heating the end of the tube that is nearest where the butt would be-is this correct? That is the end that has the nut part. Should I be heating the end closer to the guns action?

 

Thanks a bunch for your replies fellas.

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Thanks, the heat gun I have is 750/1000 as well, and I was actually using the low setting. I'll switch it to high and heat that thing for 10 minutes. I'm actually pretty good with mechanical stuff; I'm mechanical engineering student.

 

So, I'm heating the end of the tube that is nearest where the butt would be-is this correct? That is the end that has the nut part. Should I be heating the end closer to the guns action?

 

Thanks a bunch for your replies fellas.

 

Yes, apply the heat where the tube and receiver meet. And also remove your trigger group.

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Ok, I held the heat gun on that thing for almost 5 minutes, and still no amount of my torquing could twist that nut. Just how easily does it turn after its been heated?

 

Unfortunately, I'm starting to think I should take this one to a gunsmith. Bah

Based on what I have read, I would agree that you need to take it to a qualified gunsmith. I have beeen very sorry in the past when I have figured that I could handle the situation when I really had never been there before... and then I was sorry.

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Yes, apply the heat where the tube and receiver meet. And also remove your trigger group.

 

Hold up!

 

You are trying to replace the spring itself, or the whole recoil tube receiver???

 

This guy right?

 

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/schematics/schemmfg.aspx?schemid=682&m=1&mn=Benelli+U.S.A.%C2%AE&model=Super+90+M1+Field+

 

If so, you want to heat the end nearest the butt of the gun. Jeff over at surecycle used to have instructions on how to do it, but I can't find them online right now. Post up pictures and I'll PS them to point where to heat.

 

See if this helps.

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=14617

Edited by Drundel
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Hold up!

 

You are trying to replace the spring itself, or the whole recoil tube receiver???

 

This guy right?

 

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/schematics/schemmfg.aspx?schemid=682&m=1&mn=Benelli+U.S.A.%C2%AE&model=Super+90+M1+Field+

 

If so, you want to heat the end nearest the butt of the gun. Jeff over at surecycle used to have instructions on how to do it, but I can't find them online right now. Post up pictures and I'll PS them to point where to heat.

 

See if this helps.

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=14617

 

You're correct except it's the M1 s90 tactical, and that second link is the guide I'm using. I'm trying to replace the recoil spring because it seems like that's what I've boiled its cycling problems down to. I got the damn thing used online (never again), and it's gritted up state leads me to believe the recoil spring is probably the stock original.

 

Here's an image I just took. The left side of the tube is the part I've been heating and then torquing on; it's the part with the nut that I can't tell if it's part of the tube or if it should separate. benelli.th.jpg

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Sounds like you are doing it right. Its not fun or easy, it takes heat and pressure.

 

And sounds like it very well could be your spring. I waterfowl hunt a lot and my tube is usually filled with gunk that reminds me of heavy crude.

 

Edit. I'd use blue loctite, since you will most likely take it off again to clean it.

Edited by Drundel
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Outershell, please go buy a cheap torch at a hardware store. Whatever Benelli uses is NOT blue Loctite. Heat the nut and the tube about one inch down from the nut with the blue part of the flame for a minute or two. As you have discovered, in many cases a heat gun will not work.

 

I owned two auto repair shops for fifteen years and have never known a mechanic who even owned a heatgun. If cosmetics are not an issue, as in this case, use a torch. And lefty loosey, righty tighty.

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And just to clarify regarding your question above, the nut on the top of the tube is threaded into the tube itself. The threads on the nut are about one-half inch long. The tube does not separate from the receiver; the nut separates from the tube. The process is easier if you carefully clamp the receiver in a vice. It does not need to be clamped tightly at all and must be well-protected from the vice jaws.

 

I had to heat mine until it was almost glowing red. A box-end wrench is best, but if you've already buggered the nut up to the point the wrench won't hold, you'll have to use a pair of large vice grips.

Edited by jantonio54
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I had the same problem! You can send it to Benelli or you can put the tube in a padded vice clamp it down and go for it if the nut gets to rounded use channel locks or vice grips! what do you think a gun smith would do?If the cosmetic damage is to much to bear clamp the reciever in the vice and remove tube and all and replace it with stainless steel which I highly rcomend anyway!Forget the heat they use loctite in engines which get plenty hot in some areas and the glue doesn't give up!Also be carefull how you clamp the tube you can dent it which will hamper the plunger and springs function!

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I am sure you have already sprayed gun-scrubber liberally inside the tube and flushed all the crud out and then re-lubed with CLP spray and it still did not cycle, correct?

 

Actually, I considered this but figured-before I tried it-that simply replacing the spring with the Wolff one would be optimal. I also don't have those items-just Hoppe's lube and solvent-and will probably have to mail order them because the closest store that'd have them is like a 45 min drive. I think I'll order those anyway... thanks

 

A blowtorch really isn't an option because I live in a tiny apartment without a garage or place I can use one safely-typical student situation. I don't even have anything I could safely clamp a vise to, so I'll have to get a buddy to hold it.

 

I'll let you guys know what happens. Thanks a bunch.

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Actually, I considered this but figured-before I tried it-that simply replacing the spring with the Wolff one would be optimal. I also don't have those items-just Hoppe's lube and solvent-and will probably have to mail order them because the closest store that'd have them is like a 45 min drive. I think I'll order those anyway... thanks

 

A blowtorch really isn't an option because I live in a tiny apartment without a garage or place I can use one safely-typical student situation. I don't even have anything I could safely clamp a vise to, so I'll have to get a buddy to hold it.

 

I'll let you guys know what happens. Thanks a bunch.

 

Where do you live that Wal-Mart is 45+ minutes away?! I WANT TO MOVE THERE!

 

PS. living in a tiny appartment never stopped me from doing anything I wanted to do! It is amusing that I had such well-known antics that when a former roommate had an AD with a 357 SIG noone even reported/called/knocked on the door.

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Where do you live that Wal-Mart is 45+ minutes away?! I WANT TO MOVE THERE!

 

PS. living in a tiny appartment never stopped me from doing anything I wanted to do! It is amusing that I had such well-known antics that when a former roommate had an AD with a 357 SIG noone even reported/called/knocked on the door.

 

Were they still alive?? :p

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Were they still alive?? :p

 

Uncomplicated through/through wound to the upper lateral aspect of left thigh, followed by superficial destruction of computer-case, immediately followed by a massive dent in his bed-frame, a fragmented projectile, and several impacts (minor) on the sheet-rock of his wall.

 

He drove himself to the hospital. He was not enough with himself to lie about what happened. The G32 was confiscated (TECHNICALLY on Univ. property...)

 

He got it back 2 days later

 

He was kicked out of the complex by red-tape, but noone enforced it for a week or 2 as I recall, was a few years ago.

 

He was "That guy" and the case was actually discussed in a law-class at LSU proper, lol. Indeed he was THAT GUY.

 

Short-term results, physically:

 

Bruising at entrance/exit site (roughly in a 1-2" radius). Bleeding (minor, compared to what you would expect). Lack of hearing loss was noted. Roommate in the other room sleeping says he was not disturbed. I was not present at the time.

 

Long-term physical results were:

 

Neuropathy at the site, which gradually decreased to none, as I recall. A scar. Damaged self-esteem/self-doubt (Former Marine shoots himself in the leg while cleaning his weapon, it tends to demoralize him).

 

Ammunition used was WWB 125gr FMJ-FP listed @1325fps from a 4" test barrel. Weapon, as stated, was a G32. Distance to impact was roughly 1 foot. SLug was turned to fragments embedded in wall (fragged upon impact with bed-frame).

 

As a side note, officers (I was told) swarmed and cleared out appartment (after my roommate told them where the AD occured, as all GSW's "Demand" an explanation at a hospital by a LEO). My room was entered. Nothing (not even the 2 boxes of Hornady XTP on my dresser) was disturbed. All present were asked if alcohol was involved. It was not (honestly).

Edited by Unobtanium
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  • 2 weeks later...

Sweet, I held the heat gun on high (1000 F) for fully 10 minutes and had a buddy act as a vise grip, and it came right off! Thanks a ton for your help guys.

 

I have a few last things I'm wondering about though. Since a cleaning rod can only reach halfway down the tube (the rest is obstructed by a cylinder that the spring fits over), is it okay to just spray gun scrubber and/or break-free up it and let it dry on its own? Or should I just clean the inside as best I can with a cleaning rod?

 

Also, and this may have been the main issue, when I unscrewed it the spring popped out, but the plunger didn't. So that leads me to believe it actually may have been in there incorrectly. Can you guys tell me which of these images is the correct way to reassemble it?

 

Image 1 (which I think is probably right)

rightdzf.th.jpg

Image 2 (which seems fishy)

wrongz.th.jpg

 

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Image 2 is right. If you were to unscrew your recoil tube from your receiver you would see how the indention in the plunger form a pocket for the link (on the bolt) to fit in.

 

Look at the schematic from Brownell and you'll see how it matches up with your image 2.

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  • 9 years later...

I replaced the end cap using a screw driver to pivot the end cap from inside the tube.  Then I purchased a m4 end cap that fits over the m1 tube and drilled a hole thru m4 end caps nd tube and insert a drift pin.  In the future, I remove the drift pin , then the m4 end cap comes out with the spring and follower. Very easy.  I love the m1 super 90.  Got the idea from looking at end of John browning 1897 Winchester shotgun.

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