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Benelli M4 -- Aimpoint T1 Yay or Nay


StrangerDanger

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Innnnnteresting!

 

I forgot that the Sidearmor system uses the factory handguards ... see, if I buy a rail I will specifically want to use a small VFG.

 

The rail looks good though, not nearly as big as perhaps I thought ... if only it was made to proper specs, I would probably buy it.

 

I still disagree with your light setup choices, but to each their own ... it looks like you get your intended effect and the end result looks clean and well done. I still contend that a push button, support side mounted light is the best of all worlds, and much simpler ...

 

I am curious about your plan on employing the light though ... are you going to strobe with it, or have it on every time you grip the gun, or on command for 15 seconds or so at a time as you clear rooms, or what ...

 

It seems to me that such a pressure switch, located on the fire control grip, would be easy to accidently hit with some grips, or if it was hard enough to activate that this was not an option, that it would sometimes fail to activate when you wanted it to with less than optimal grips ...

 

I'm sure you will test all this though ...

 

I hope it works out for you.

 

Also, if you haven't read a guide such as this one, I suggest looking at it ... I personally found it very helpful, as it just concerning the practical use of a weapon light ...

 

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=20&t=446092

 

ETA - I forget, are you running an optic in a larue mount on the rail? If so, I am very interested to hear if the mount gets destroyed or not ...

Edited by Duggan
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The Sidearmor definitely is a NO-GO for a FVG.

 

I'm liking this setup a lot. I don't run around with the light on constant. I use it as a true momentary illumination device. Activate, deactivate, move, sweep and so on.

The way the grip is cut puts the switch in a pocket, so the rubberized outer grip is slightly over the top of the switch. So you have to consciously press into the grip to activate the light. The strip is the length of my middle, ring and pinkie finger. I found when I was normally holding the Benelli, I wasn't squeezing with my fingers. I was pulling towards my shoulder. So the majority of the pull was applied to the first to second knuckle.

 

I have yet to have any AD's with the light even when slung from my 2 point GearSector sling. I intentionally let the grip slap against my side to see if it would illuminate. Nothing. Plus, I'm not running secret ops missions for General Clancey. So AD's with light aren't that big of a concern for me.

I'm going to trial run a method to activate the light easier to see if it is better or worse. Just a simple spacer between the grip and the switch will pre-load tension on the switch I think.

 

My biggest problem with tape switches was the install. Most systems I've seen assembled leave wires hanging everywhere. With this setup, I have 1.5" of wire exposed. From the back of the light to the top rail. Not bad for having a 40" switch.

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I ran 200 rounds through the M4 this evening. Everything ran great. I want to run a few more times in the dark. However, I had to remove my extension since I sold it for 150 bucks.

So now I patiently await for Kip's Titanium tube.

 

The iron sights work okay even though they are blocked by the ladder rails almost flush with the tritium bead.

 

Light activation was fluid. I found I could strobe it if I wished. The only thing I wish the Scout had was low output nav LED's. I have a Surefire Helmet light, but the activation/deactivation is poor and the picatinny rail mount I have won't fit on the Benelli.

 

Cleaning the weapon was easy. No tools required to disassemble the weapon.

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I frown on dot optics that do not offer the ability to control the intensity of the dot. The newer reflex might be better. The old one was less than stellar.

Here in the desert, the lighting conditions are extreme.

 

If I was on a restricted budget, I'd get the Aimpint H-1 for about the same money as the Reflex.

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I got my Aimpoint T-1 today. The package size is perfect. I mounted it 4 spots from the furthest to the rear lug. I switched the throw lever to the left side of the optic. This will present less obstruction to the charging handle.

 

It seems that the pistol grip stock is fine for my arms. I tried shifting closer to see if it would be better with a shorter stock, but it felt the same.

 

I can't fully reassemble since I don't have a magazine tube right now. However, the Sidearmor rail holds the barrel in place. So I got a good feel for it.

 

On the highest setting, I think you could see the dot if you were aiming into the sun. That thing is nuclear bright. Having owned the CompM4 recently, I can say that there is no reason to subject yourself to the weight, size and expense of it.

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On the highest setting, I think you could see the dot if you were aiming into the sun. That thing is nuclear bright. Having owned the CompM4 recently, I can say that there is no reason to subject yourself to the weight, size and expense of it.

 

Thanks for the info. I have a T-1 on a LaRue mount that I moved to an FN PS90 while I waited to find out about Kip's rail. LaRue says "no problems" on an M4 with a stock rail, but I've seen the pics that put that in doubt. Eventually I was going to get another optic so I appreciate your insight on the M4 sight compared to the T-1, especially for carbines and shotguns.

I have a Leupold Mark 4 CQ on an AR-15, a EoTech 516 on an M1A (EBR stock), the T-1 on an FN PS90 and a naked M4. I want to buy the right optic and swapping what I have to different weapons is an option. The EoTech on a 7.62 rifle might be the biggest mismatch right now. So far my only gripe on the T-1 is that the "dot" seems to bloom even at intermediate settings so it may not be right for a rifle. It's like a 4 MOA dot with a bloom that makes it an 8 MOA blob.

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I have big concerns about the LaRue mount and the out of spec rail. So to try to prevent any damage, I cranked the throw lever so tight that it takes both of my thumbs to release/close it. I then cut the ladder rail as close as possible ahead and behind the mount to act as a cushion. That's why I left some room behind the optic on the top rail.

I figure that much clamping force on the side should limit the need of the recoil lug.

 

The cheek weld is much better than when I was using the EOTech 552. On it, I felt like I had to lift my cheek off the stock to center myself behind the reticle.

 

Mine only seemed to bloom on the very highest setting indoors. My guess is that setting is meant for use on Mercury killing space zombies. I like to find a setting where it works for daytime and night time use without having to adjust the intensity. I plan on setting it, and leaving it on 24/7. 50,000 hours should be long enough. That's about 5.7 years. For comparison, my 2 pound EOTech ate double A batteries in 1000 - 1500 hours, and would turn itself off after 8 hours of on time. Weak.

 

What I like about the T-1 over the CompM4 is the lack of that massive battery compartment. A lot of that optic obstructed your field of view.

Matched with my light setup, this seems like cheating.

 

I'm going to put one of these on my MRP. I'm more concerned about close range speed than accurate 200+ yard shots.

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Thanks for the info. I have a T-1 on a LaRue mount that I moved to an FN PS90 while I waited to find out about Kip's rail. LaRue says "no problems" on an M4 with a stock rail, but I've seen the pics that put that in doubt. Eventually I was going to get another optic so I appreciate your insight on the M4 sight compared to the T-1, especially for carbines and shotguns.

I have a Leupold Mark 4 CQ on an AR-15, a EoTech 516 on an M1A (EBR stock), the T-1 on an FN PS90 and a naked M4. I want to buy the right optic and swapping what I have to different weapons is an option. The EoTech on a 7.62 rifle might be the biggest mismatch right now. So far my only gripe on the T-1 is that the "dot" seems to bloom even at intermediate settings so it may not be right for a rifle. It's like a 4 MOA dot with a bloom that makes it an 8 MOA blob.

 

 

Funny, because LaRue whined at me for putting it on the "non-spec" rail on the Benelli M4 when I shredded their mount. Oh well, they refunded me and so that's all that matters I guess. Maybe they think everyone uses low-brass birdshot :rolleyes:

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It's tough for them to cry that it shouldn't have been used on a M4 with the factory rail when it is shown on their website with it mounted.

 

If someone was dead set to use the LaRue on the crap rail, they could mount something behind it that uses a cross bolt. Then seat the mount directly against the LaRue.

 

Whenever my mag tube gets here, I'll put it through some love. Beyond just birdshot.

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It's tough for them to cry that it shouldn't have been used on a M4 with the factory rail when it is shown on their website with it mounted.

 

If someone was dead set to use the LaRue on the crap rail, they could mount something behind it that uses a cross bolt. Then seat the mount directly against the LaRue.

 

Whenever my mag tube gets here, I'll put it through some love. Beyond just birdshot.

 

 

Buy 2 boxes of 3" slugs. That should be enough to warrent a call to LaRue. Then again my mount was adjusted correctly, not torqued to **** and back.

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