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about APG HD camo on SBEII


DoctorW

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I just bought a SBEII in APG HD camo. But I found there are a couple of tiny scratches, where there are some tiny pieces of camo paint peeled off.

 

I am wondering if it is normal to this kind of camo paint?

 

Would the camo be easily scratched or peeled off?

 

Would the peeled off part on the barrel continue to develope?

 

How should I maintain the camo paint?

 

Thanks.

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Benelli camo guns are notoriously bad at maintaining their finish.

 

Touch up paint and try not to drop it I guess ... it's going to happen either way, and I personally would not baby an expensive weapon ... but if you care about making the finish last, it's going to take some careful deployment.

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Doesn't duracote require baking?

 

Either way, it would probably work to some degree ... assuming it doesn't make the gun tacky/sticky/glossy etc.

 

You're going to be fighting an uphill battle trying to keep the finish in mint condition though ... it's a very common complaint.

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Yes, the Benelli camo paint is somewhat lacking...My M4 came (new) with several chips in the paint. Which resulted in a lower price at the gun shop (yes...despite it's popularity, the M4 is just like any other gun). It takes away from the value of your gun, but not the function. And short of a 're-dip', there is no good cure.

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Firstly, the finish is not paint. It is a synthetic ink film applied by immersing the weapon through a skim of printed ink film as it floats on top of water in a tank.

 

Yes, the finish is subject to peel and scratch more easily than are paints and other more durable coatings.

The simplest and most economical approach is to accept it for what it is and not worry about it too much.

 

While it is aesthetically unappealing to you, the owner, it is inconsequential to game.

 

I don't think and application of clear coat will adhere very well unless the surface of the film is prepped for good adhesion. Given that it is hardly a hair thick, that could be a tricky thing to pull off.

 

If you're concerned about rust on the exposed metal, then get some Testors and touch up the blemishes as they occur.

 

Here's a video of the hydrographic process.

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Ooooops..............

 

Seems I regret that I bought the camo version. I should have bought the matte black version. I thought the camo provided an additional layer to protect the metal from rust. But now I begin to think that it is even worse than the gun without camo.

 

Maybe a matte black gun painted by Durocoat (or similar paint) is a better idea to provide an additional protection, and a better looking as well.

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I thought the camo provided an additional layer to protect the metal from rust.

 

It does.

You've got a few scratches and nicks.

It happens. It's really no big deal. If you feel it's excessive, then contact CS and exercise your rights under warranty.

 

If you want a showpiece, you should have bought the blued metal and walnut version.

 

If, after years of use, it gets so bad that it bothers you to the point that you can't sleep at night, then send it off and have it re-dipped. There are plenty of places that do that.

 

http://duracoatinc.com

http://www.camoent.com/index.htm

 

Maybe a matte black gun painted by Durocoat (or similar paint) is a better idea to provide an additional protection, and a better looking as well.

 

I bought the black oxide in 2004 with the intention of wearing down the original finish and then having it duracoated or similar.

I clean the gun after each use, and so far it's nowhere near needing refinishing.

I t has a few nicks and scratches, but a little TLC with CLP keeps it rust free.

I don't give a rip what it looks like, as long as it isn't shiny and it performs.

So far, so good.

 

If you do decide on a duracoat job, Birdsong is the top man in the industry.

 

Here are a few pattern designs I am considering.

 

camo_eagle.jpg

 

desert_sbe2.jpg

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tucker301, Thank you very much!

 

Besides, I do not know how those guys who do finishing jobs deal with the existing finish. Would it be very easy for them to remove the now existing camo without damage the gun surface? How do they remove the now existing finish, especially camo surface? Or, they do nothing to the existing finish but just add another one? (The latter one seems stupid and not reliable.)

Edited by DoctorW
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Those questions are best directed at them.

My guess would be that they remove the finish and start back with a good base.

 

Do you know when Benelli did there camo finish, what kind of base do they use?

I mean, they would probably not dip the naked metal parts into the camo ink. Would they do parkerize or anodize before dipping into camo ink?

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