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StrangerDanger

Benelli M4 -- The Trigger Disconnect Sucks

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Great pictures of the different recoil tubes. I am trying to find a non-collapsible tube for my M4 as a collapsoble stock is "evil" in CT. I am going to give Numrich a call to see if they have one, if not I will have a gunsmith pin the stock but would prefer a non-collapsible tube. Thanks to everyone in this forum, the amount of information here is almost overwhelming!

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Is anyone setup to mill any additional intermediate grooves in the stock tube?

 

Just curious as the collapsible stock doesn't work for me. The iron sights are only useful with the stock fully extended and that requires gorilla length arms to manipulate the shotgun. The pull length in the intermediate position is almost perfect -- but the stock comb makes an instinctive cheek weld impossible.

 

-- Chuck

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Great pictures of the different recoil tubes. I am trying to find a non-collapsible tube for my M4 as a collapsoble stock is "evil" in CT. I am going to give Numrich a call to see if they have one, if not I will have a gunsmith pin the stock but would prefer a non-collapsible tube. Thanks to everyone in this forum, the amount of information here is almost overwhelming!

 

i have the same issue. if you go with a non-collapsible tube this means that your c-stock will be locked at the fully extended length, right? i probably want my c-stock locked in the middle position.

 

i spoke to a couple gunsmiths recently, and i told them i wanted to find a way to pin the stock to the tube. they said the way they like to approach this problem is to find a way to "pin the pin" so to speak. they prefer to find a way to lock the "adjustment mechanism" making it inoperable rather than actually locking the stock to the tube. sounds like a reasonable approach, but i'll feel better once i take them the Benelli M4 (11707) AND the Benelli c-stock so they can look things over closely.

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i have the same issue. if you go with a non-collapsible tube this means that your c-stock will be locked at the fully extended length, right? i probably want my c-stock locked in the middle position.

 

I agree with you. I would rather have the stock set in the middle position vs. fully extended. I need to start researching gunsmiths in my area and make some calls. I was going to get the Urbino but when I saw the new prices on the c-stock I had to get it...now I just need Kip's 5 round titanium tube, trigger group parts,charging handle,picatinny rail & GG&G bolt release.Ime still trying to decide on an optic...either the Aimpoint micro T1 or Trijicon RMR

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Best way to deal with the middle position is to run an optic. I use the T1 and the height is perfect. Use of the iron sights is doable, but not intuitive. A skilled machinist could mill additional grooves. However, they might not heat treat them like the factory does. Note the discoloration on each groove.

 

There is a m1014 tube on gunbroker right now if I recall. They go for a premium due to people needing them in commie States.

 

Numrich only has 2 and 3 position tubes. None of which are properly marked. The stripped units are 2 position, and the more expensive complete assemblies are 3 position.

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So I guess back on topic, is getting the inside of the buffer tube polished worth it? Or do you think at some point someone might offer a lighter AL or Ti version?

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The only person who might take on such a project would be carriercomp. Not sure if he's really interested in doing it though. I'd be all over a 7075 aluminum unit.

 

I don't see it happening any time soon though. Few are willing to go through the trouble of taking it off for a nominal weight savings.

 

Polishing wouldn't hurt, but I doubt you'd see any beneficial result honestly. Coating it would probably yield better results. Np3+ would be a good one. Maybe ion bonding.

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The only person who might take on such a project would be carriercomp. Not sure if he's really interested in doing it though. I'd be all over a 7075 aluminum unit.

 

I don't see it happening any time soon though. Few are willing to go through the trouble of taking it off for a nominal weight savings.

 

Polishing wouldn't hurt, but I doubt you'd see any beneficial result honestly. Coating it would probably yield better results. Np3+ would be a good one. Maybe ion bonding.

 

 

Yea i wasn't as worried about the weight so much as the issue described above with the action not operating properly

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Best way to deal with the middle position is to run an optic. I use the T1 and the height is perfect.
Confirms my "intuitive" judgment.

 

-- Chuck

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Best way to deal with the middle position is to run an optic. I use the T1 and the height is perfect. Use of the iron sights is doable, but not intuitive. A skilled machinist could mill additional grooves. However, they might not heat treat them like the factory does. Note the discoloration on each groove.

 

There is a m1014 tube on gunbroker right now if I recall. They go for a premium due to people needing them in commie States.

 

Numrich only has 2 and 3 position tubes. None of which are properly marked. The stripped units are 2 position, and the more expensive complete assemblies are 3 position.

Will the Numrich 3 position tube fit a 11701 M1014

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Thanks! I just ordered one. I booked marked your tutorial on the disassembly/assembly. Was there any particular heat range(temp) that you maintained and did you use a commercial heat gun?

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I used a cheap Stanley heat gun i got from Home Depot for like 20 - 25$ to do my carriercomp mag tube. It says that says it's a 1000? I don't know if that is watts or degrees (which I wouldn't believe). It had a high and low setting. I baked it on high and it took all that time.

 

The more heat you have, the faster it will go. Higher heat may damage the finish or temper of springs if not removed. Even the front of the receiver couldn't be touched for very long after heating due to convection.

 

Source your tools ahead of time. Removing the spring retainer from the base of the existing recoil tube is probably the biggest ***** if you don't have the proper tool. The new one will arrive assembled, so it's plug and play.

 

Take a picture of the inside of the receiver with the trigger pack removed. This will help a lot when it comes time to screw the new tube in. The tube can be screwed in by hand. So knowing the seat depth is important. I set mine flush with the inside of the receiver. It will screw in further. Avoid this, or your pistol grip won't thread onto the weapon. Use the collapsible stock in the collapsed position on the tube to act as an alignment gauge. The comb of the stock will point to the center of the rear sight housing when properly indexed.

 

Expect to spend 2 hours on this job. It's not as hard as most make it seem. There is just only one way to do it properly. If you run into any trouble, let me know.

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where are you guys going to have the np3 applied..robar's reputation is anything less then stellar...far as i kown bowie tactical does not offer this type of service?...bowie tactical would be my first choice as that guy can be trusted..any ideas?

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We had considered it. No ones really an expert, so we're kind of guessing on if it would help at all. You'd need a high speed camera to figure out if the weapon was cycling any faster or not.

 

For now, it's working. So no need to dick with it.

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