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sidearmor rail fit question


Hookster

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Nice! Let us know how you like it when you get it.

 

Plenty of lightening cuts along the bottom of the rail.

3615581535_d2aa5cdab6.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3392/3615581535_d2aa5cdab6_b.jpg

 

3615581477_8915b9e307.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2449/3615581477_8915b9e307_b.jpg

 

Anyone remember the old SideArmor rail system from years ago? Where it was just a picatinny rail that extended off the receiver to a barrel clamp? They've changed it significantly since then.

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Wow. Never seen those before. If they had longer lengths of those, I'd get them for mine.

 

One trouble with ladder rails on the top rail is it obscures the iron sights. With a ladder rail in place, you can just see the top blade of the front sight.

That's their reason for having the center channel cut. Without it, the sights would be obstructed. The rail itself sits about 0.20" higher than the factory rail because of the top cover.

 

If you're going to run an optic, this doesn't matter at all.

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I wish I'd known about that "buy it now" price when I ordered mine a couple of days ago but no matter. Mine has already shipped so I should have it in hand on Mon. or Tues. If anyone is thinking of ordering one they do have free shipping which is nice these days. I hate when you order some small part that they send in by mail in a letter envelope and they still charge 8.95 or whatever for shipping.

As far as using a rail ladder on the top rail to help with routing wiring. I have a original Benelli front sight post off of my M1S90 (I replaced it with a Meprolight) Anyway, it's a good 1/8" (if not a little more) taller than the M4/ Meprolight post. I wonder if that would be enough to visually clear the rail ladder? I'd of course be sacrificing the night sights.

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The issue will then be that your rear sight is not at the proper height.

 

I attempted to get SideArmor to revise their rail. But they started ignoring me. I said they should have extended the rail to the rear of the M4. Remove the rear sight and use the 4 or 5 mounting holes through the thicker part of the receiver along with the 5 factory mount points to secure the rail. Then profile the rear so the factory rear sight bolts to the Sidearmor rail. This would raise the rear sight enough to allow for a true spec picatinny rail along the top. No sight channel would be required. The bolts would need to be replaced with slightly longer than stock ones.

 

The front sight would need a riser. This is the most complicated part to produce since the front sight post is actually the threaded part that the 5.5mm nut attaches to. This squeezes the front sight hood between the brazed on sight tower. If a spacer was used, there wouldn't be enough thread on the sight. So a replacement front sight would be required with longer threads.

 

True spec side rails should be standard. There is no reason for them to be center cut like they are now. The weight savings is minimal at best.

 

I may bug them again to try to spearhead a revision.

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I think I might be ok with the taller post. The M1S90 it came with used the same LPA rear sight as the M4. Meprolight sells the same shorter front sight post for both the M1 and M4.

 

http://www.meprolight.com/default.asp?catid={14BA41E5-A292-435D-B40C-B413BFEBCA91}

 

so I think I should have enough elevation adjustment to make it work

But anyway, I'll know more next week after I start playing around with things. I'm also looking at the new 135 lumen 2.5 hour run time Streamlight TLR-1 but I still have my eye on the scout as well

 

http://www.streamlight.com/product/product.aspx?pid=80

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When you get it, you'll be amazed at how light it is and impressed by the machining along the bottom. Their photos on the site do not give it justice. The shell carrier they offer is pretty slick too.

 

 

X2 on that!!! Just received my Sidearmor rail today and I'm very pleased so far after my initial look at it. The quality of the machining and finish is great!! I'll have time this weekend to do the installation and start playing around with light/switch placement and wire routing. I'll post some pics as things get farther along. :D

 

Hookster

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Glad you like it. I could never wait till the weekend to install something like that.

 

I'm going to get a few of those ladder rails you posted with the wire loom in them. I think that will clean up my top rail and get rid of the zip-ties. I deburred the zip-ties, but there is still a hand hazard there.

 

Do you have the 5.5mm wrench for the front sight post?

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I was tempted to slap it on yesterday after I opened the box but just didn't have time to do it right. Yeah, it looked like those looms would be just the ticket for the way your switch wire is routed as long as they secure well.

 

I got a wrench from here:

http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-Metric-Wr.../dp/B000IBOOBM

 

Good quality tool without having to buy the entire ignition wrench set from Sears.

 

Hookster

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I will be posting pics soon after I get the light/switch mounting completed. So far I'm leaning towards a short rail on the right side with the light and long rail on the left with the sling swivel in the same placement that you are using and the pressure pad switch forward of that. I'll be routing the wire under the Sidearmor rail between the rail and the barrel.

 

I just ordered a Streamlight TLR-1 along with the pressure switch, backplate (which has a constant on as well as momentary position) and red filter from Optics Planet. I've had a TLR-2 for a couple years on my Glock 21 and have been very happy with it. So we'll see how the TLR-1 does on the Benelli. Although I had been looking at the Surefire Scout it seem like the TLR-1 is a couple ounces lighter, a couple inches shorter, slightly brighter and less $$. I did like the fact that the scout sits a little further forward but I've been playing with my tlr-2 on the Benelli and don't find the shadowing to be an issue for me.

 

The unknown is how secure their switch mounting system is going to be. It has a couple rail mount clips that the switch mounts to. If you click on this Botach link and hit the magnified view of a couple of the AR pics on the left side of the page you can get a pretty good detail of the mounting system.

 

http://www.botachtactical.com/sttlmitali.html#

 

So anyway, we'll see how things go. If I don't like it I'll try something else. Now if my Carriercomp tube would show up, life would be complete :D

 

Hookster

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One concern you might want to address is removal of the barrel from the weapon with the wire routed between the barrel and the rail. When I pull my barrel, the collar that seats against the receiver scrapes along the bottom of the rail.

 

The Scout is consevatively rated at 125 lumens. Most people believe it is really between 175 and 190.

Even with my Scout there is some barrel shadow. It's pretty much unavoidable.

 

If the Surefire X300 could be modified so the paddle levers were momentary switches rather than constant on, I would have strongly considered using it and just hitting the lever with my thumb. Pushing the switch forward didn't feel right. This would require it be mounted on the left side. I also prefer the right side mount for sling carry.

I'm encountering this problem with my MRP that I don't want a FVG on.

Currently there is no offset mount available. I tried the LaRue I have on the left side. It works, but it could be better.

I could go with a tape switch setup, but I rather not.

 

Did you get the shell carrier? How did you like it if so?

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I've been playing with my pressure pad switch from my Insight M3X I have on one of my ARs to check for problems when removing the barrel. I think as long as I pull the barrel out slightly so there's a little space between the barrel clamp and the rail, then remove the switch and then remove the barrel the rest of the way I should be OK.

 

I've also been looking at just activating the light with fingertips of my left hand (the TLRs have momentary on one direction and constant the other) and it works pretty well with how my hand naturally sits so that's always a good option if I run into to many problems with the switch mounting.

 

I did get the shell carrier and am pleased with quality but at the moment I'm thinking that I'm going to leave it off for the time being. just to keep weight and bulk down. I can always bolt it on later if the need arises. I do have the same Specter Gear shell carrier on the stock though that you have. I've always been a fan of their stuff, I have Specter Gear slings for all my long guns.

 

Congrats on getting your LMT MRP, must have been a long wait these days. Did you get a SOPMOD stock to go with it?

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I got my MRP piston rather quick. I cheated and sniped one on Gunbroker. No way in **** was I waiting till the end of 2010.

 

Currently I'm using a Magpul M93B stock. I have a rare FDE one, so it looks good on my desert layout. I've used the M93 series since the very first prototype. The UBR is probably better. I may upgrade down the road when they are more available.

I have to send the barrel off and have it profiled down to remove some weight. I'm going to leave it at 16" so I can interchange muzzle devices. The inch and a half of length isn't worth having to pin a muzzle device on. To me at least.

I'm going to put an Aimpoint T-1 on it and maybe an Aimpoint magnifier on a Larue mount that rolls to the side. I haven't decided on the magnifier yet.

 

My wife bought me a set of Troy Industries FDE flip up sights. I liked them better than the magpul ones. The mbuis's just seem rather big. The cost is great, but I'd rather the bomb proof Troys.

 

More importantly, I think my order of 20k small rifle primers shipped from Wideners. So I can feed the beast. Next step is to buy 80 pounds of TAC powder. Literally.

Yes, I'm one of those evil hoarding bastardss. I process and shoot enough to wear out two Dillon tumblers in less than a year.

 

When Obama thinks of rooms like I have devoted to making ammunition and working on guns, a single reat runs down his cheek like the indian.

 

If the switch cable is long enough, your wire routing plan should work. Worst case is you'll have to go over the top and modify the ladder rail so the cable can pass under it.

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The Streamlight pressure switch wire is 8" so that should be plenty to work with.

 

You've got a fine wife setting you up with Troy Ind. sights. I ended up with the A.R.M.S. 40L on the back of my main AR and a Samson flip on the front. I'm also running an EO Tech with a flip to side 3x magnifier but I like the idea of going smaller/lighter like you're talking about with the T-1.

 

When I post Benelli pics I'll throw in a couple gratuitous AR pics.

 

Hookster

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I got those rail covers today from Ergo grip. They worked out great for my project. Much better than the zipties I was using. The FDE color matched my other ladder rails.

 

I sold some junk, so I got some of my other wanted upgrades for the MRP build. I ordered a BAD copy from Phase 5 like Duggan has.

P5EBRC2_1.jpg

 

I had a Wilson Combat billet bolt release, but I hate it. It split my hand open during training due to the sharp edges on it. It was also a snag hazard.

 

It's bound for gunbroker when I get this one in.

 

I shot an e-mail over to the guys at failzero to see it it would be possible to coat the LMT's BCG. I asked them to see if receiver extensions, piston assembly, uppers and barrel extensions could be coated also.

Maybe this is something I can look into for the Benelli also.

 

My wife definitely did good with the sights. They should be here tomorrow.

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I was happy with Ergo's wire loom covers too. I also got some of their regular ladder rails as well to fill in any exposed side rails I end up with. My light/switch and backplate will be here Friday so I'll get everything together this weekend and post some pics. I hope you'll be posting a couple pics of your MRP build when you get it all dialed in the way you want.

 

Hookster

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