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MikeyZ

I must be an absolute IDIOT...

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OK, pride-swallowing time.

 

I have an M4 with (what I am assuming to be) lead built up inside the bore. I have tried everything to get that crap out.

 

Yes, I have actual lead remover, and I have used mops, nylon brushes, bronze brushes, and patches to get that stuff out of there (I followed the instructions to a t). Crap is still in there, and thick.

 

All I have been shooting is #7 bird, 00 buck and some rifled slugs.

 

PLEASE, give this apparent amateur some guidance on getting that crap out. Thanks!

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What I do is run a thing soaked in lead or powder remover and let the barrel sit 30 minutes. Then I take a wire brush and go back and forth for a while, then run something to dry it through. I do this 3 times or until its out. I only soak it 1 time. It sucks but it just has to be done.

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get a 10 gauge brass bristle brush,,attach it to the rod extension then attach all that to a cordless drill get some solvent lubricant of some sort,,stick the 10 gauge brush in and turn on the drill,,variable speed trigger is the good,,soon it will all go away. lube and drill,,lube and drill,,,,

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Concur w/M1014's instructions - would keep the drill moving as if honing a cylinder block - say a full length pull in 4-5 sec and then push back - medium speed on the variable and plenty of solvent - I wonder if it might be plastic wad build up as well - I do it with the gas pistons in the up position but your still going to get crap in those cylinders, so you might want to make sure to remove the pistons and clean out the bores

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This is rediculous. Forget about power tools, they have no place around a firearm's bore. Go buy a Tornado bore brush and it will take care of your problem in 5 minutes.

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This is rediculous. Forget about power tools, they have no place around a firearm's bore. Go buy a Tornado bore brush and it will take care of your problem in 5 minutes.

TORNADO BRUSH?? wus that??:D TS

Edited by texas skeeter

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Well one dumb question to add. I beleave that all Benelli shotgun barrels are Chromed lined. And if this is the case, is it possable what you are seeing is the chrome inside the barrel its self and not lead?

 

Jesse

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Sounds like plastic from crimp area on end of shells when they open, if it's in that area i use Hoppe's #9 and a bronze brush and repeatedly work that area. But you must be careful with Hoppe's # 9 due to it getting under the chrome plating in the bore, NOT GOOD!! It will ruin the barrel and start a corrosive fester where the product enters under the chrome plating! I use it but i use it with caution and it always removes the melted crimp from end of the shells & it has always removed other junk in the bore and get it removed as soon as possible and oil the bore and i then use a bore mop to remove excess oil!

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Sounds like plastic from crimp area on end of shells when they open, if it's in that area i use Hoppe's #9 and a bronze brush and repeatedly work that area. But you must be careful with Hoppe's # 9 due to it getting under the chrome plating in the bore, NOT GOOD!! It will ruin the barrel and start a corrosive fester where the product enters under the chrome plating! I use it but i use it with caution and it always removes the melted crimp from end of the shells & it has always removed other junk in the bore and get it removed as soon as possible and oil the bore and i then use a bore mop to remove excess oil!

 

Are you sure this relates to hard-chrome, or just decorative chrome with a copper base layer?

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My understanding is the bore is chrome plated? and i would suspect it is only a thin layer of chrome and under that i think it's a layer of copper plating and when the solvent contacts it thru a scratch it will start the corrosive process. Could be wrong :eek: but this info comes from Hoppe's website.

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My understanding is the bore is chrome plated? and i would suspect it is only a thin layer of chrome and under that i think it's a layer of copper plating and when the solvent contacts it thru a scratch it will start the corrosive process. Could be wrong :eek: but this info comes from Hoppe's website.

 

IIRC there is no copper layer in a hard-chrome process, only decorative chrome or "soft chrome". Chrome is porous, and if this were the case, repetative use of FBC would have a deletrious effect.

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