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GG&G release pad M4 installation??


xamoel

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hey guys,

 

finally the GG&G release button for my M4 has arrived. no sharp edges at all, feels great, looks great.

no i just need to get it installed, and the only problem i have (till now), i don't know which hex screw i shall use. i tried 2mm and 2.5mm, the 2.5 is a tiny bit to large, the 2mm is too small.

nothing is said in the instructions, so it's up to you to tell me what i need :D

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hey guys,

 

finally the GG&G release button for my M4 has arrived. no sharp edges at all, feels great, looks great.

no i just need to get it installed, and the only problem i have (till now), i don't know which hex screw i shall use. i tried 2mm and 2.5mm, the 2.5 is a tiny bit to large, the 2mm is too small.

nothing is said in the instructions, so it's up to you to tell me what i need :D

what do you mean hexscrew, CAMELTOE??:eek: they dont come complete with all parts needed to assemble?? it came with no screw??

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ok, wrench is found.

now for the next problem: how did you get out the OEM roll pin, in order to remove the carrier latch?

from bottom to top seems obvious, as it gets tighter to the bottom, at least i think so.

how hard will i have to hit the damn pin till it comes out?

 

next question: GG&G manual says to use the OEM spring, why did they include a new spring then? and why should i place the NEW roll pin in the receiver from bottom to top? why not the other way round?

 

thanks

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I think I drove mine out from the top down. The reason being it is easy to slip off the pin from the bottom and scratch your receiver. I forget what size punch was required. You could try skeeters corn cob tool, but I'd opt for a punch and a 4 ounce hammer.

 

Once you drive the pin out, the catch will fall away from the receiver. Pay attention to where the spring is before you remove the pin. There isn't anything that holds the spring in place. So once the pin is removed, you won't know where to put the spring exactly.

 

When reassembling, use a smaller pin or a small drill bit to act as a slave pin. Put it in from thr bottom. This will hold the assembly together while you drive the roll pin in. Pay attention to how far the roll pin is driven in. It has to be deep enough that it doesn't stick up into the channel the bolt carrier reciprocates in. You don't want to drive it too far down either and have it poking out of the receiver. You could mark the punch with a pen while it is inserted through the top and resting on the factory installed roll pin. You'd know how far to seat it then for sure.

 

You may reuse the old spring if you like. The spring supplied is the same. You can reuse the roll pin also if it isn't damaged during removal.

 

A vice will make this job magnitudes easier. Remove the bolt carrier group, barrel and trigger pack. Specialty punch sets like a roll pin starter would make this even easier.

 

If you're worried about the finish, use masking tape in layers to cover the work area.

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hey CAMEL, drive the pin out from bottom to top!! and back in the same way. just tape both sides of the hole with duct tape just to be safe/ and if you feel you dont have a steady hand. keep tapping with punch till pin is out and upon re-assemble, use some small needle nose to hold pin while starting it. the hole is not bigger or smaller on either end. its just waaaaaaay easier hammering with no obstructions from bottom to top. TS

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The roll pin holder eliminates the need for the plyers. I highly recommend them for anyone who works on weapons. I have awesome German made plyers, and they don't do half as well as the roll pin holder.

 

You can drive it in either way. But you don't have a tactical corn cob holder to punch the pin out. :p

Either way, rig up a slave pin to hold the assembly in place while you drive the roll pin in. As the pin is seated, it will push your slave pin out.

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  • 8 months later...

I'm having a **** of a time getting the factory carrier latch pin out. The only punches I can ever find in local hardware stores are tapered. For something this small and long, you need a long, skinny punch. Where do you find something like this??

 

As a substitute, I've been trying a precision screwdriver and a huge claw hammer. After pounding on the thing like crazy, I've managed to get the pin all the way to where it starts peeking out from the top hole. But I can't seem to get it any further. This is insane. In fact, I had to pound on it so hard that the vibration loosened the titanium mag tube and the buttstock. Advice?? :confused:

Edited by AggiePhil
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I'm having a **** of a time getting the factory carrier latch pin out. The only punches I can ever find in local hardware stores are tapered. For something this small and long, you need a long, skinny punch. Where do you find something like this??

 

As a substitute, I've been trying a precision screwdriver and a huge claw hammer. After pounding on the thing like crazy, I've managed to get the pin all the way to where it starts peeking out from the top hole. But I can't seem to get it any further. This is insane. In fact, I had to pound on it so hard that the vibration loosened the titanium mag tube and the buttstock. Advice?? :confused:

 

The only advice is to get the proper size punch, period. I can't remember what I used to do mine but I'll try to go out to the shop in a bit to see. I own and run a welding/machine shop so I realize my tool inventory might be more than average. The other thing you should have done is put a drop of CLP in the bottom of the hole a day or so before you did the mod. That will allow the clp to penetrate enough where the pin won't require much force to remove. Don't sweat it too much, I'll get the punch size for you and walk you through it if you like. You could PM me your number and I'll call you on my dime.:)

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Thank you, I appreciate it. I will get the proper tool, even if I have to order it. Sucks, but I know the importance of having the proper tool for the job. I also tried dropping some Kroil down on the pin but I didn't do it until I was already pounding on the sucker. Once you figure out what size punch it is, do you have a preferred website for ordering them? Like I said, when I tried Sears and Harbor Freight, all they had were larger tapered punches. Nothing "precision".

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Thank you, I appreciate it. I will get the proper tool, even if I have to order it. Sucks, but I know the importance of having the proper tool for the job. I also tried dropping some Kroil down on the pin but I didn't do it until I was already pounding on the sucker. Once you figure out what size punch it is, do you have a preferred website for ordering them? Like I said, when I tried Sears and Harbor Freight, all they had were larger tapered punches. Nothing "precision".

 

No problem. The correct punch size is 3/32". There is probably a metric equivalent but 3/32" is close enough that you won't have any issues. The proper terminology is "roll pin punch" and they are available from Brownell's as well as a plethora of on-line retailers. Like I said, I would be happy to walk you through it if you want. There is a bit of a trick to getting it all back together and you will benefit from a 3/32" slave pin or drill bit (in addition to your punch) to keep things aligned while reassembling.

 

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5551/Product/ROLL_PIN_PUNCHES

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