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Guest cleefurd

Kip Carrier carriercomp status

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Mine showed up yesterday. woohoo.gif Awesome quality and well worth the 5 week wait..........thanks Kip! salute.gif

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me too! the handle should have priority, as the sidearmor is already a worthy replacement for the OEM rail imho.

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Am I able to order a picatinny rail from Kip yet?

No Dibo, and as a matter of fact you may not own a benelli m4 either in Crazifornia!!:D you didnt hear?? last night they passed a complete state gun ban!! Yeah, just google it and you'll find out you are screwed!! :p

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No Dibo, and as a matter of fact you may not own a benelli m4 either in Crazifornia!!:D you didnt hear?? last night they passed a complete state gun ban!! Yeah, just google it and you'll find out you are screwed!! :p

LOL you are not nice

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LOL you are not nice

 

Yeah ya' Texas meanie!! Quit taunting us poor Californians with your Texas head games!!! It's making it hard for us to enjoy our organic vegetables and lattes!

 

H-:D-:p-K-S-T-E-R

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The weight is similar. My postal scale woks in 1/10th increments, and does little but show which is lighter/heavier etc. I need to get one that does grams soon.

 

The design concepts diameter is 1/2" too (like ours) and works very well with gloves, does not interfere with hot-reloads into the port like the 5/8" and 3/4" tend to. By the way ALL the photos are of our early proto-type, and we will never plagerize a revered competitor's product in any way. We may do limitted runs of what we call the "gargantuan" knobs that at least a few shooters favor. If we enclose the open end it could double as a floatation device.... hmmmmm.... KIDDING.

 

Near as we can tell with the postal scale the all ti version is a hair less weight, while the hybrid appears to be essentially identical in weight to the OEM knob. Our rejected (all ti) knobs are with DOD for training guns (not for deployment) and I suspect many of those 94 knobs will grow legs but they are good friends/people hence the consideration, not to mention the contracts they furnish so win/win.

 

We are producing several hundred of the hybrid version that better suits our standard, and won't list it until they are complete in order to avoid any back-order status. We have a newer knurling head that is awaiting custom angled arms direct from Dorian. As soon as Fastenal gives us the call we pick them (arms) up and resume the production on the revised version. Hated the delays but it was preferable to EVER selling an item I considered less than optimal.

 

Can you please expound in detail on the underlined/bold part?

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Guest cleefurd

My mistake ! Not a hot reload, but the "elevator-round" introduction. It has been about 7 years since the encounter, but as I recall, we noticed the dexterity required to get the extra round onto the elevator (with a notched bolt carrier gun) while employing an an excessively oversized knob made it more tedious. Also the larger diameters were more likely to wind up on the deck during remedial action. It seems the OEM diameter never EVER "auto-ejected". When the knurling on the larger diameter tries to stay engaged to an un-curling finger during release, it can index the detent on the tang... now if the operator is pulling his hand (especially grip enhanced gloved hand) in an outwardly direction while "roll" releasing the knob, the combined index and outward pull puts the bolt knob into removal trajectory. Nearly unheard of with the OEM knob, an increasing probability as the diameter and efficiency of the knurling increase. Variants that fell to this scenario were all properly equipped with OEM compliant non-rotating tang tips. This is why an un-named manufacturer of 3/4" knobs reverse engineered their 3/4" knobs to have no detents, while working with Syscom. Many folks here thought they were cutting corners, yet complained when their knobs had retaining issues. I'm not condeming or applauding any design. I do believe that the OEM curvature is the equal to knurling to keep the finger on the knob laterally, and the spartan OEM diameter minimizes the odds of inadvertant indexing during bolt release. I have tried them all, and this may sound absurd from a business stand-point, but I swear by the OEM knob. Larger diameter does nothing for a gloved hand. Only a longer one can overcome the bulk of a glove's tendency to distance the finger away from the receiver... and no one makes a meaningfully longer one.

 

Having said this I assure you there is no hand-writing on the wall (knobs will be made). We are still waiting for the Dorian Tooling Corporation to furnish us with a special order item in order to complete our hybrid bolt knobs. If I thought they were a liability, I would not sell them. But they will never be in excess of 1/2" diameter. Ford/Chevy sort of deal.

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My mistake ! Not a hot reload, but the "elevator-round" introduction. It has been about 7 years since the encounter, but as I recall, we noticed the dexterity required to get the extra round onto the elevator (with a notched bolt carrier gun) while employing an an excessively oversized knob made it more tedious. Also the larger diameters were more likely to wind up on the deck during remedial action. It seems the OEM diameter never EVER "auto-ejected". When the knurling on the larger diameter tries to stay engaged to an un-curling finger during release, it can index the detent on the tang... now if the operator is pulling his hand (especially grip enhanced gloved hand) in an outwardly direction while "roll" releasing the knob, the combined index and outward pull puts the bolt knob into removal trajectory. Nearly unheard of with the OEM knob, an increasing probability as the diameter and efficiency of the knurling increase. Variants that fell to this scenario were all properly equipped with OEM compliant non-rotating tang tips. This is why an un-named manufacturer of 3/4" knobs reverse engineered their 3/4" knobs to have no detents, while working with Syscom. Many folks here thought they were cutting corners, yet complained when their knobs had retaining issues. I'm not condeming or applauding any design. I do believe that the OEM curvature is the equal to knurling to keep the finger on the knob laterally, and the spartan OEM diameter minimizes the odds of inadvertant indexing during bolt release. I have tried them all, and this may sound absurd from a business stand-point, but I swear by the OEM knob. Larger diameter does nothing for a gloved hand. Only a longer one can overcome the bulk of a glove's tendency to distance the finger away from the receiver... and no one makes a meaningfully longer one.

 

Having said this I assure you there is no hand-writing on the wall (knobs will be made). We are still waiting for the Dorian Tooling Corporation to furnish us with a special order item in order to complete our hybrid bolt knobs. If I thought they were a liability, I would not sell them. But they will never be in excess of 1/2" diameter. Ford/Chevy sort of deal.

 

Ergo, user-error is to blame, and not design, however, design can lend itself to the cause of user error. Since extra grip is what is desired as well as what is causing this error, it is up to the user to balance their requirements. Is this correct?

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I am a huge fan of the 1/2 inch titanium design concepts knob.

 

The size is not the most important factor ... being flat and having an aggressive texture make it superior to the OEM knob imo.

 

Non-rotating is also key ... the GG&G knob rotates all day long and is huge, and it sucks. Mine came out multiple times, and due to how easily it would spin using my preferred charging method (outside part of my right index finger, right at the first joint past my knuckle) would sometimes end up with me partially charging the bolt, then slipping off and having to regrab and recharge.

 

I think a flat faced, forward facing knob would also work well ... similar to what M1s have.

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Guest cleefurd

True. Balance.

 

A Gal or two, and a friend named Tommy with a birth defect to his hand and fingers have expressed that a OEM knob's small-ish diameter is hard on tender hands. So bigger than OEM is welcome for them.

 

Balance indeed.

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True. Balance.

 

A Gal or two, and a friend named Tommy with a birth defect to his hand and fingers have expressed that a OEM knob's small-ish diameter is hard on tender hands. So bigger than OEM is welcome for them.

 

Balance indeed.

 

Or modification of charging technique. I can bind the BCG in the reciever if I charge the weapon pulling on the knob, etc. Now, it takes some doing, but it is possible to do this. Ergo, I would say that maybe the people who had issues with the larger knobs may need to review their method.

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Well, after a year or so of thinking about what to do, I finally sprung for one of Kip's tubes!

Six months ago, I bought a bench vise thinking...I'm going to get a tube on order one of these days. So got the vise mounted, got a heat gun. Finally ready.

 

I was thinking about what to use to clean out the threads on my receiver after I get the oem tube off. Is there any reason why I can't use "Goof Off"? I was looking at the acetone (actually nail polish remover) in the stores, and it had all kinds of other crap in in besides acetone. So I didn't want to go with that. Would the Goof Off hurt the finish or something?

 

Thanks!

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Well, after a year or so of thinking about what to do, I finally sprung for one of Kip's tubes!

Six months ago, I bought a bench vise thinking...I'm going to get a tube on order one of these days. So got the vise mounted, got a heat gun. Finally ready.

 

I was thinking about what to use to clean out the threads on my receiver after I get the oem tube off. Is there any reason why I can't use "Goof Off"? I was looking at the acetone (actually nail polish remover) in the stores, and it had all kinds of other crap in in besides acetone. So I didn't want to go with that. Would the Goof Off hurt the finish or something?

 

Thanks!

 

I just used a 12ga brass bore brush.

 

Also, you don't need a vice or any of that crap, just a $15 heat-gun and an old T-shirt to wrap things in to keep from burning your hands.

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I'd add that you don't need acetone or even a wire brush. A nylon brush worked fine for me. By the time the thread locker was broken down enough for me to unscrew the magazine tube, it was also broken down enough for me to remove with the nylon brush and my finger (when it cooled down a bit).

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I'd add that you don't need acetone or even a wire brush. A nylon brush worked fine for me. By the time the thread locker was broken down enough for me to unscrew the magazine tube, it was also broken down enough for me to remove with the nylon brush and my finger (when it cooled down a bit).

 

Probably right, but I have noticed that on different M4's, the adhesive sticks differently. Two of mine I had to spend about 15 minutes with the bore-brush getting it out, the last M4 I bought, it came out all on the tube and just needed a wipe-down with an alcohol pad to prep it for the new tube/loctite.

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I think it may have to due with the temperature. I think there is a sweet spot where the adhesive fractures instead of liquefying.

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Yeah, about 95% of mine stayed on the original tube threads. Very little work was required with the receiver threads.

 

Later,

 

Hookster :)

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I think it may have to due with the temperature. I think there is a sweet spot where the adhesive fractures instead of liquefying.

 

 

No, I was twisting and applying heat. Ergo, I don't think this is correct or it would have come off at the same point on all 3 weapons. I think surface-prep (or lack) at the factory of the two metals has more to do with it.

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