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CMM Bolt Release Test


Unobtanium

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The bolt is a #6-32, and so I am having my OEM bolt-release drilled/tapped by a local machine-shop tomorrow.

 

Even if the shop butchers 1 OEM bolt-release (which I highly doubt), you can still buy another and try again for less than the GG&G and about the same as the CMM, which is totally full of fail, imho.

 

That is completely the way to go as far as I'm concerned. Its nice and cheap and you can change the pad at any time so long as the new one has a #6 hole in it with a countersink. Glad it worked out for you.

 

BTW how much did the shop actually charge you for the drill/tap job, if you don't mind telling?

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I think the GGG bolt release as an awesome part. Perhaps a tad pricey, but as opposed to what? Who else makes a decent bolt release? Nobody.

 

And I think GGG is better than decent. Seriously. I've had one on my gun for 3 years or so, tons of shooting, no issues whatsoever, and works just as I like it.

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That is completely the way to go as far as I'm concerned. Its nice and cheap and you can change the pad at any time so long as the new one has a #6 hole in it with a countersink. Glad it worked out for you.

 

BTW how much did the shop actually charge you for the drill/tap job, if you don't mind telling?

 

$10. It took 45 minutes and the guy was VERY VERY thorough with it. He used a dial-indicator to make sure it was straight up/down, center-punched it, drilled it, and hand-tapped it. The only complication was that the "button" on the OEM started to rotated when pressure was applied. Since the NC button is round, it doesn't matter. Drilling through it just relieved a bit of tension holding the button in. However, I was scared it might come out under hard use. Only way to find out? Destroy one and see what it's made of! So I did (not the one he worked on, lol). THat button may well rotated, but it is NOT! going to come loose. It's G2G 100%. If you ever want to change buttons, just grab it with some needle-nose and hold it still and un-screw it. No problem. However, I will be keeping the Nordic Speed Button. It just kick's ass. It doesn't mar (or touch) the reciever. It's easy to "hit" without being rediculously large. It did have some rough machining on the ridges, but a bit of 400 grit sandpaper and 2 minutes fixed that.

 

In case you are wondering, here is the destroyed button, so you can see how it is held to the shell-stop lever. As you can see, there is NO WAY this button is coming out, even though it can rotate if you put enough pressure on it. The shell-stop lever will break before the button comes out (as I demonstrated when trying to "pull it out" with pliars.). The shell-stop lever surrounds the button around the groove around it. Through-drilling it can relieve a bit of tension, and allow rotation under force, but again, with a circular button. This is a non-issue. This is part of why I picked a circular button, as it is my opinion that a hard enough drop or bang could easily rotate the button on the GG&G as the GG&G is not able to rotate independantly of the button due to the anti-rotation grooves. The CMM buttom would rotate independant of the button. The NC Speed-Button may rotate, but it won't matter. There is NO WAY it could jam the operation of the action by hitting the bolt-handle because (obviously) it is circular. All-in-all, I am very pleased with it. It appears to be made of aluminum (not sure the alloy) with Type II "decorative" anodizing. Black.

289zgx2.jpg

It is obvious how it can rotate under enough pressure, and equally obvious how it is NOT coming out or working loose.

 

 

Here is the installed Speed-Button with a 5/8" bolt-handle (no interaction), and fully depressed (not reciever interaction, allowing confidence that it will function, and that the reciever will not be marred.)

xkq80p.jpg

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Guest cleefurd

From what I've read, and what Murphy has proven... +1 on the NC label. Excellent work J.G.

 

Less is more. Even if that machinist charged you for 45 minutes work (you robbed him), adding the purchase price, and the diminished potential for design failure under adverse conditions... clear winner.

 

Now put your consultant cover back on & get busy finalizing your design for my PM'ed request.

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From what I've read, and what Murphy has proven... +1 on the NC label. Excellent work J.G.

 

Less is more. Even if that machinist charged you for 45 minutes work (you robbed him), adding the purchase price, and the diminished potential for design failure under adverse conditions... clear winner.

 

Now put your consultant cover back on & get busy finalizing your design for my PM'ed request.

 

PM sent. Also, for those who have the 4-40 tapped Celtic Mist part and no good machinists in the area: Arredondo Magazine Release Button

 

3/4 down on the page: http://www.cpwsa.com/arredondo.htm

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Update:

 

I spoke with the owner of TAC2, which is ALSO CMM (I did not know).

 

He apologized for the ad./product discrepancy and is swapping parts with me. VERY nice guy, and is cross-shipping. He still has the original advertised design.

 

However, I have found the ultimate bolt-release button solution, and I will provide pix once it's installed. Then you all can yay-nay it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I bet its a solid gold bolt release made out of a Standing Liberty $5 coin with custom engraving and nano technology that keeps the gun clean and lubricated automatically forever...oh wait...that was Uno's post...I was thinking it was Skeeter or M1014:rolleyes:

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Much crap with USPS went down and stuff was delayed. Pissed. Hopefully by the end of this week I will have it togather.

 

You have the worst luck with USPS, holy ****.

 

It's pretty ridiculous ... I'm starting to think it's just the incompetent people at your southern branch somewhere.

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You have the worst luck with USPS, holy ****.

 

It's pretty ridiculous ... I'm starting to think it's just the incompetent people at your southern branch somewhere.

 

The inbred hicks that run the post-office that delivers to my area are as incompetant as it gets. To be specific, it is the "Southfield" branch in Shreveport, LA.

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and they Wonder why the U.S. post office is broke/overbudget!!!!:rolleyes: maybe it has something to do with, RETARDS run the place!!;)

 

Duggan mailed me a USPS MO that took over 30 days to get to me. FAIL. I saw the "mailed" stamp-date also. He mailed it the day he said he did. USPS just shat the bed. This has happened to me on two occasions sending from that branch, and multiple occasions receiving mail.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Everything finally arrived and I had the time to put it togather.

 

Diameter is 3/8", and texture is 40lpi. It feels about like skateboard tape. Blued Steel finish. Easy to find/hit, impossible to "slip" off of once found, and doesn't look as out of place as a 2 foot-high spoiler on a mid 90's slammed civic.

 

11goll4.jpg

 

Total cost of my project, presuming you do not wish to do ANY machining yourself/hire out, would be around $80. I of course took about 3x that much as I tried the CMM, the GG&G, the Nordic Components, etc. before finally evolving to what you see above.

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