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HoratioDUKEz

Rusted supersport barrel, needs blueing?

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Hi guys, so I had some rust towards the end of my supersport barrel and I used some 0000 steel wool and some 600 grit sandpaper with some hoppe's oil to get rid of it. I don't think it was a very good idea though...I got rid of the rust, but the barrel lost it's coloring where the rust used to be...which looks a lot worse. What should I do now? I'm not exactly sure what blueing is or how it works, but is that an option? I don't mind paying someone if there is a professional service that could fix this. Pictures below...

 

http://i45.tinypic.com/1zwezyo.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/f57r5j.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/2eo8mme.jpg

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Bummer.:( If it would have been me, I would have just put some BF CLP on there and let it set for a good while and then rubbed it off with a soft, silicone impregnated cloth. I have a Super Sport and ALWAYS wipe the barrel down with some CLP before/after shooting. That said, there are cold blue products that you can get but they will never match the original finish. You can always have the barrel polished and re-blued, just find a good local gunsmith who does it.

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yea, I was kinda forced to shoot in the rain at this tournament I was at, and I gave the gun a quick cleaning and wipe down afterwords, but obviously not well enough.

The barrel is a 30" and I want to replace it with a 28", but I can't find one for less than $600 from ableammo. How much would a re-blueing cost from a gunsmith, and how much do you think I could sell the 30" for with and without the reblueing?

 

Also, if anyone is interested in trading a 30" for a 28" I would be very interested!

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Yea, maybe I'll order some cold blue, anyone have a link to one they recommend.

Briley also sounds like a good idea, I was thinking about doing some of the performance shop stuff to my supersport, so they could do both.

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Yea, maybe I'll order some cold blue, anyone have a link to one they recommend.

Briley also sounds like a good idea, I was thinking about doing some of the performance shop stuff to my supersport, so they could do both.

 

Just go to wal-mart and buy it, but it doesn't hold up very well at all.

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Chemical bluing holds up pretty well if you give it some effort.

I've found that heating the area to ~150-180 degrees F and then applying the chemical promotes adhesion and durability.

 

You'll need to apply it several times over to accomplish good results.

 

Briley's is good, but really any smith a tank can fix you up like new as well.

Plan B, get the entire gun dipped in a nice carbon fiber pattern, or whatever you want.

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sandpaper!.......oh the shame you must feel. :p

 

In my defense, it was 600 grit...it feels no rougher than paper, I was shocked that it did so much damage...

 

Tucker my only thought is that I want to replace this barrel with a 28" anyway, which I can't find for less than $600...and I'm assuming a gunsmith is going to charge at least 200 to reblue it. If I could sell/trade it as is, than I would be golden.

Any more tips...?

I'm pretty decided that I'm not going to try to do anything else myself since I no longer have any trust in my handiness :)

Edited by HoratioDUKEz

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Just fix your problem by getting it re blued, nobody wants a barrel that has been treated the way you did? 600.00 bucks vs 250.00 is a no brainier + Briley will have a warranty as long as you keep the barrel lubricated properly once you get it back!

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true, alright, I'm going to send it into briley, that way I can get some of the performance shop work done as well. Than I'll worry about selling it and buying the 28"

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I would be hesitant on further damaging the Benelli and would send it to a professional shop for a quality finish with a warranty! Mistakes can be expensive but learning the hard way can cost, that is why doing a pro blue job would be the only route to do it properly! I always wipe lube/grease on any barrel i plan to expose to rain while shooting no matter what the finish is.

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Guest cleefurd

The very forgiving 0000 steel wool is where I would have stopped, since it tends to burnish rather than cut.

 

Any sandpaper will take bluing down at a cyclic rate. Hindsight.

 

Unless the additional work from Briley is a "must-have", I would wipe the area with acetone, warm it slightly, and apply cold blue (I use Brownells liquid oxpho-blue with a Q-Tip) until it gets close. It will afford some protection, and keep it from being a beacon/eyesore until further action is preferable. That cold blue is great for touching up screw-heads, tiny niks, etc. You'll always have a use for it, and once in a blue moon, it will do large areas like you have there to PERFECTION. Worth a try.

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yea, I was kinda forced to shoot in the rain at this tournament I was at, and I gave the gun a quick cleaning and wipe down afterwords, but obviously not well enough.

The barrel is a 30" and I want to replace it with a 28", but I can't find one for less than $600 from ableammo. How much would a re-blueing cost from a gunsmith, and how much do you think I could sell the 30" for with and without the reblueing?

 

Also, if anyone is interested in trading a 30" for a 28" I would be very interested!

 

 

To bad its ported. You could have it cut down and rethreaded for chokes. If you wanted to go 25-26 inch barrel, and get rid of the porting. maybe.. It would cost less than a new barrel.

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Hogwild, yea thats a good idea, greasing the outside up before going in the rain...can't believe I never thought of that.

 

Cleefurd, I'll pick some up for the future, but I think I'm going to send this in to get done professionally, does it come out matte or shiny? cause my barrel is very polished...and where do you get yours?

 

Novaking, I thought of that, but I don't think I want to go quite that short.

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Guest cleefurd
....

Cleefurd, I'll pick some up for the future, but I think I'm going to send this in to get done professionally, does it come out matte or shiny? cause my barrel is very polished...and where do you get yours?

 

.....

 

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=3955/pid=1108/sku/4_oz__Oxpho_Blue_trade__Creme?review=1

 

I use the liquid formula of this, and never tried the cream, but it got good marks from their customer reviews. It will buff to match the texture of the metal it penetrates/converts, so in your case it looks like it would be shiny.

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I had a rust problem on my old HK SBE barrel...had it re-blued then shot it in the Calif delta, cleaned it good and got home 2 days later and the rust started forming again. I have sent it to get a Duracoating @ Jim's Gun Supply in Wisconsin along with the slide off of my Sig P226. The duracoat is extremely durable and survived a 300hr saltwater immersion test.

Jim's is charging me $75 for both jobs + shipping. They do custom work too.

http://www.jimsgunsupply.com/index2.html

 

Jim's Gun Supply

"I'll Get You Loaded"

1000 8th Street

Baraboo, WI 53913

1-608-393-4303

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Ran across another gun refinishing company:

CCR Refinishing - CERA-HIDE not only looks great but it offers greatly improved abrasion and wear resistance. It offers untold rust and corrosion protection along with being a self lubricating finish. CERA-HIDE passes the strict Military tests for 1000 hours Salt Water test. CERA-HIDE makes cleaning your gun a breeze.

Cera-Hide is available in House black, Matte Black, Stainless Steel, BTM which is designed to resemble Nickel and OD Green.

Pump Shotguns: $169.00

Semi Shotguns: $169.00

Combat Shotgun Sevices:

Porting up to 46 holes: $55.00

Prices include complete disassembly and reassembly of

the firearm. Includes removal of surface rust. Pit removal

is available for an additional fee. Finish Applies to all metal

surfaces. Stocks not included. Scope Rings and Bases Extra.

http://www.ccrrefinishing.com/info.htm

Edited by hattles

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Ran across another gun refinishing company:

CCR Refinishing - Cera-Plate will be available for carbon steel only.Cera-Plate is a true composite plating process. It is an Electroless Nickel composite process that incorporates Boron Nitride particles within the matrix of the phosphate bath. Its benefits include an exceptionally low coefficient of friction, excellent wear resistance. It is ideal for guns parts that require the lubricity of Nickel /Teflon but need more wear resistance.

Cera-Plate has a Rockwell hardness that rivals that of hard chrome but offers lubrication and more rust and corrosion resistance.

http://www.ccrrefinishing.com/info.htm

 

CCR is a top-notch company. They do more than just Cera-Plate. I would trust them with it 100%.

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