TrapperTod Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 I have a super black eagle that is probably 10 years old by now. Started having issues last year with cycling while hunting. I have figured out it is probably the recoil spring as this gun sees heavy use. Does anyone here have a picture guide to help me remove this thing? What are your recommendations for a spring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tucker301 Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=570/schematicsdetail/Super_Black_Eagle Remove the recoil pad. Insert a 13mm(?) deepwell socket on a 4" extension and remove the retaining nut (73). Slide the stock off, making note of how the shim (91) and locking plate (27) are arranged. Remove the stud (74) from the end of the tube (65) by turning the nut with an adjustable wrench. Some heat may need to be applied to loosen the loctite. Remove the spring (97) and the recoil tube assembly. Replace with Surecycle or Brownells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jed1894 Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 (edited) One other thing to add: adding the heat is sometimes an art. I have one (friend's actually) that will not break loose. I've tried everything and apparently I'm not heating it enough or doing something wrong. I've removed others, but this one ain't budged yet. If you have the same problem, you may want to put the gun in some kind of vise because you can warp the recoil tube trying to turn the nut and, according to Benelli, they will not warranty the gun if the tube is warped by the owner. If it's out of warranty or you don't care, then this is not a concern. One other thing: when I called Benelli about this one that would not break loose (thinking something may be different about this gun), they offered to take the gun and change the spring. The customer rep said if it needed changing, they would not charge me. So, you might want to call them and ask if they'll change it out for you free. They may do it even if it's out of warranty. Just a thought. By the way, anyone who wants to offer suggestions on the one I have, please do so....i.e. where exactly to heat, photographs of someone actually putting the heat to it, etc. thanks...jed Edited November 5, 2010 by jed1894 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tucker301 Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 If you have the same problem, you may want to put the gun in some kind of vice because you can warp the recoil tube trying to turn the nut For clarity Vice Vise And don't squeeze it too hard, whether it's a hooker or a receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jed1894 Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 Oops....sorry about that. Late night typing, drinking beer and spelling don't work sometimes....thanks for correction. jed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankg353 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Like the other post a surecycle is not a bad choice. On my surecycle upgrades I throw out surecycle plunger and use the factory dampening plunger. The later model factory plunger had a built in shock absorber. This will take the battering effect away from the receiver. Good luck. Now all you need is a slug barrel for it. Let me know I have a perfect slug barrel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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