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M1014 recoil tube removal


Tony Scarboni

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With the upcoming release of the US made hammer, I decided it is time to change the recoil tube on my M1014. I have ordered the recoil tube and began disassembly in anticipation. I could not get the recoil tube locking nut to budge. I followed similar steps to remove the magazine and had no problems. Apply heat, twist off. There was very little thread locker on the magazine. I would really like to remove my recoil tube without damaging the receiver. Anybody have first hand experience removing the recoil tube on an early M1014? This would be the American flag version with a date of production stamp from 2002. Any help, advice, or tips will be appreciated.

Thank you

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There is a lot of misinformation concerning how to remove these recoil tubes from your weapon. Benelli will tell you that you will destroy the shotgun if you attempt to remove the extension. This is only true if you do not heat the threads sufficiently to break the thread locker.

 

Once you've developed the testicular fortitude to complete this project, you must do the following:

 

Disassemble the weapon. You must remove the internals from the recoil tube assembly. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring at the bottom of the recoil tube. Unscrew the spring retainer. You should put a punch through one of the drainage holes to keep the spring from ejecting when you remove the plug. Contain the spring as the punch is removed. Tip the receiver back to allow the plunger to slide out of the recoil tube. After that, you should spray the recoil tube out with solvent to remove oil and debris that might catch fire during the next process.

 

To remove the tube, you must heat the recoil tube extension's locknut with a heatgun for 30 minutes or more. A propane torch would also work, and be faster. However, a heatgun will be slower and safer. Benelli coats the threads with a green thread locker compound. Make sure you put the receiver in a vice. I found the best place to clamp to was below the rear sight. You do not want to crush the receiver with the vice. Apply just enough tension to hold the receiver in place. Make sure you apply some padding between your receiver and the vice. The nut is common thread.

 

The nut is a 1 1/16" or metric equivalent wrench. You do not want to apply a lot of torque to the receiver. You want the heat to break the locktite's hold. I never used more than one arm to apply torque with. Once it is heated sufficiently, the nut will begin to turn slowly. Continue heating until the nut is completely removed and slides off the end of the recoil tube.

 

Now time for the hard part.

Continue to apply heat to the recoil tube threaded area. Use an open ended 3/4" box wrench on the flat spots of the recoil tube to apply torque. These are also common thread. This may take another 30 minutes with a heatgun to break the locktite compounds hold. Note the depth that the recoil tube is screwed into the receiver. Also be aware that this item must be timed to index the stock in an appropriate direction.

 

Once the recoil tube unscrews, clean up the threads with acetone or another solvent. A wirebrush will help.

 

To reassemble, screw the new recoil tube in so that the threads are flush with the inside of the receiver. Thread the locknut over the recoil tube assembly and screw it flush with the receiver. Add the collapsible stock to the tail to act as an index to help time the recoil tube assembly. Once you've indexed it to where you want it, tighten the locknut. What I recommend is installing the collapsible stock at this time, and collapsing it fully. Use the cheek weld piece of the collapsible stock as an index point. Point the cheek weld so it points to the middle of the rear iron sight housing. Once you have it where you want, tighten the locknut. I highly recommend reapplying locktite to the recoil tube and the locknut. Even if you simply use the blue type. The recoil tube extension is pretty easy to screw in. You can do it by hand.

 

Reinstall the internals of the recoil tube. Drop the plunger in, followed by the spring. Press the spring in and retain it with a punch or screwdriver. Screw in the spring plug. Reinstall the snap ring.

 

Install your stock.

 

Hopefully this tutorial is clear. The times needed to run the heatgun are accurate. Prop the weapon up so you can leave the heat on it and just sit by and watch.

Edited by StrangerDanger
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Success! Thank you StrangerDanger. Removal was easier than the directions implied. This was going to be the hardest most feared step in my plans to upgrade. It was so easy. After the locknut budged, I immediately tried turning the recoil tube. It turned with little effort. I am now the very proud owner of an expensive pile of parts waiting for reassembly. Thank you.

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Good deal. Glad it helped. Reinstallation is pretty straight forward. The hardest part is getting the existing unit off. Just note how far you need to screw the recoil tube in. You should be able to screw the new unit from Numrich Arms in by hand. The only thing that keeps this locked in place is the lock nut and a reapplication of thread locker.

 

Aligning it properly is pretty easy with the collapsible stock in hand.

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  • 2 weeks later...

One other comment on reinstalling the new recoil tube unit. Be careful on how far to screw the unit into the receiver. If the unit is screwed in too far, the trigger housing/fire control group will not seat when you go to reassemble the gun. The end of the trigger housing butts right up next to the back on the recoil tube. Before applying locktite, you might want to dry fit it and make sure everything goes togther as designed.

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mhawley is correct. Take a picture of the inside of your receiver to note the depth in which the tube must be seated. Good luck finding a photo of the inside of the recoil tube on the internet -- I looked.

 

I screwed mine in so that it was flush with the inside of the receiver. Then indexed it as needed. Locktite is mandatory, since you can screw the recoil tube in by hand. The jam nut acts as a safety to prevent it from moving. Locktite both in place. It would be quite embarassing for this tube to break loose during firing. Your stock would likely twist 90 degrees while you have it shouldered.

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  • 8 years later...
54 minutes ago, Networking Dad said:

I know this is an older thread, but I have to praise you on your instructions.  I couldn't find anything, anywhere, on changing the recoil tube assembly.  The tip on the taking pictures to ensure proper alignment of the new assembly was spot on, as well.  Thank you so much StangerDanger!

 

StrangerDanger has helped countless amounts of people with there Benelli's. I personally cannot count the amount of times I've referenced his material when I double guess myself or haven't a clue to begin with.  The amount of time it takes him to take photos mid process and type his extensive explanations is all to often over looked or taken for granted. Thank you Stranger Danger! 

I've shared this photo before here on the forum, I dont know why it wouldn't show up on a Google search for:

1014 recoil tube depth

Benelli M4 recoil tube depth

Benelli 1014 recoil tube depth

Benelli M4 recoil tube picture

Maybe it will help someone in the future...

 

 

P1030143.jpg

Edited by Jolly Roger
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Glad I could help! I’m surprised there aren’t more tutorial based threads on forums. The ones I do find skip over the pain in the ass parts and leave you to assume how to get from point B to C to D. 
 

I end up looking at my own posts to remember how I did certain things in the past. I never liked the YouTube based tutorials since I found them to be too fast and hard to navigate. Plus I’d had to sit there and talk thru the video. 
 

If we can keep the photo hosting up, there should be no real issues in keeping these active for years to come.  

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  • 4 months later...

Just a note to agree with the more recent posts here.  CarrierComp actually referred to StrangerDanger by name for info on building an M4 to 922r compliance.  After reading through all of the threads and posts I'm confident that I can get all the stuff below off-of and onto my shiny new M1014 11701 without breaking something.  When it all shows up and I start the tear down, I can take pictures for anyone who needs it.

CC 7 round titanium mag tube

FFT trigger group

A&S trigger housing

Meprolight Tritium sights

Benelli 3 position recoil tube

GG&G bolt handle and bolt release pad

Can't wait, I need a project!

 

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  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...
On 6/9/2011 at 8:21 PM, StrangerDanger said:

Once you've developed the testicular fortitude to complete this project, you must do the following:

 

Disassemble the weapon. You must remove the internals from the recoil tube assembly. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring at the bottom of the recoil tube. Unscrew the spring retainer. You should put a punch through one of the drainage holes to keep the spring from ejecting when you remove the plug. Contain the spring as the punch is removed. Tip the receiver back to allow the plunger to slide out of the recoil tube. After that, you should spray the recoil tube out with solvent to remove oil and debris that might catch fire during the next process.

 

To remove the tube, you must heat the recoil tube extension's locknut with a heatgun for 30 minutes or more. 

@StrangerDanger
Ive been working on building this so called testicular fortitude that you speak of for a few weeks now. I think Ive decided Im going to give this a go. I bought a Benelli M4 with the "skeletonized" stock, and I have the retractable recoil tube to replace the rigid skeleton one. I have just a couple questions:

1) As far as disassembly goes before the heating process, does that include everything except the receiver? (Like the rear sight, the bolt release mechanism/pin and spring) or is it only necessary to remove the insides of the recoil tube?

2) Do you have a solvent you recommend using to clean out the oils and potential flammable materials. Don't want to risk a fire, and Im not sure how spotless it should be in there. My gun has never been fired, and is new from the factory. 
 

I am so thankful for your forum post here, and it is the only reason I have considered actually making the swap. 
 

Best regards,

Dave

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33 minutes ago, Crazy Dave said:

@StrangerDanger
Ive been working on building this so called testicular fortitude that you speak of for a few weeks now. I think Ive decided Im going to give this a go. I bought a Benelli M4 with the "skeletonized" stock, and I have the retractable recoil tube to replace the rigid skeleton one. I have just a couple questions:

1) As far as disassembly goes before the heating process, does that include everything except the receiver? (Like the rear sight, the bolt release mechanism/pin and spring) or is it only necessary to remove the insides of the recoil tube?

2) Do you have a solvent you recommend using to clean out the oils and potential flammable materials. Don't want to risk a fire, and Im not sure how spotless it should be in there. My gun has never been fired, and is new from the factory. 
 

I am so thankful for your forum post here, and it is the only reason I have considered actually making the swap. 
 

Best regards,

Dave

Dave -

Glad to help. You do not need to remove the sights. You will want to remove the trigger pack, bolt carrier and disassemble the existing receiver extension by removing the snap ring from the end, and unscrewing the plug. Careful of the spring tension inside there. I put a punch thru one of the drain holes to retain the spring. Once apart you can dump the plunger out. For a solvent, spraying it out with break cleaner would be fine. You’ll likely see smoke, but I’ve never had flames from whatever lubricant the factory uses. Keep your flame on the jam nut and the neutered receiver extension.
 

Be careful where you clamp the receiver in the vice. You don’t want the jaws on top of the trigger pack takedown pin. I mostly clamp below the rear sight and flip the receiver upside down when needed. The jaws can chew up the takedown pin if the receiver is pivoting on it. Be sure to use some kind of padding between the receiver and the jaws to prevent marring. 
 

I think I have to do two of these later tonight after work!

 

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Thanks for the quick response! Ill be trying this tonight on mine, and if that goes well my dad will let me touch his gun. Haha.

 

Just have to run to the store and get a couple of the proper tools. 
 

Would you mind pm'ing me your number as a failsafe if something goes wrong? 

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1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:

Dave -

Glad to help. You do not need to remove the sights. You will want to remove the trigger pack, bolt carrier and disassemble the existing receiver extension by removing the snap ring from the end, and unscrewing the plug. Careful of the spring tension inside there. I put a punch thru one of the drain holes to retain the spring. Once apart you can dump the plunger out. For a solvent, spraying it out with break cleaner would be fine. You’ll likely see smoke, but I’ve never had flames from whatever lubricant the factory uses. Keep your flame on the jam nut and the neutered receiver extension.
 

Be careful where you clamp the receiver in the vice. You don’t want the jaws on top of the trigger pack takedown pin. I mostly clamp below the rear sight and flip the receiver upside down when needed. The jaws can chew up the takedown pin if the receiver is pivoting on it. Be sure to use some kind of padding between the receiver and the jaws to prevent marring. 
 

I think I have to do two of these later tonight after work!

 

Just a quick shout out, the two that SD is working on is for me! I think it goes without saying that the M4 world is better for having SD in it. Thanks man!

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I just did this a couple weeks back on my M1014 and it was a lot easier than I had expected. Didn't take long with the heat gun and the jam nut slowly started turning. Same with the recoil tube. Assembly was easy and had no issues. Had I not seen SD's instructions and various forum posts on the subject, I would likely not have given it a try. 

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Has anybody experienced thermal cracking of the anodizing on the rear of the receiver when doing this procedure.

Anodizing has been known to micro fracture due to heating variances between the base metal and the anodizing itself.

What about discoloration to the receiver or tube itself? I've seen discoloration from using a torch, but what about a heat gun?

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I've done about 150 of these receivers. No issues with anodizing cracking in my experience. I generally keep the heat on the receiver extension. A torch will discolor the extension. However, if you are removing a neutered extension, it doesn't really matter, they're pretty much garbage. There is a thermal goop material that you can wrap around the extension if you're attempting to keep it pristine. It works alright.

 

A heatgun generally does not discolor the finish. It can take 20 - 60 minutes for the loctite to break down. I've had a few receivers that wouldn't come apart after several hours of heating.

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Always appreciate tutorials from StrangerDanger... well written, accurate and informative. Thank you... 

Reading through this thread again something occurred to me... why green thread locker?  With the need to index (clock) the parts for proper alignment the usual thread lockers (red/ blue) could be a problem. The green stuff "Locktite #290" is a wicking type, designed to be applied AFTER assembly. 

Just a thought... 

Joe B  

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