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M1014 recoil tube removal


Tony Scarboni

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  • 2 weeks later...

I assume the extension you bought was stripped?


You have two options, you can buy the flexible ring to install or you can modify your old receiver extension to get the flexible ring out. Do you have a Dremel with a cut off disc to notch the raceway?

 

I guess you have a third option, you can send me the extension and I’d get it out for you, and install it in the new extension if you want. Just cover the cost of return shipping. 
 

Buy option:

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/70071

Edited by StrangerDanger
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Yep. That’s probably the cheapest route. If you want to try it, you just need to notch the end of the extension so that you can drive a punch or pick under one end of the snap ring. What I do is I cut the notch where there is a gap between the ring, then move the ring by pushing on one end of the ring so that the leg now lines up with the notch you cut. Once that is done you can get an end of a small punch or pick under the leg or the ring and dislodge it from the race.
 

The notch won’t hurt the extension and it could still be used if needed. 
 

The ring is pretty easy to install. It will collapse when pushed in. Then you can rock it into the race quite easily. 

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  • 1 month later...

Just did this today on a M1014 I want to thank StrangerDanger and all else who have replied responded or contributed to this thread. With StrangerDangers instructions this was simply easy. This only took me around 30 seconds of heat using my acetylene torch that I use for plumbing. I adjusted the flame to produce a low heat and placed heat directly to nut for 30 seconds nut broke loose I then removed nut and tried to turn tube no luck. I then heated tube for 30 seconds it turned smooth as butter. I then use Hoppe's 9 to clean my threads it removed the old thread locker like a charm. Also I read where someone asked about thermal cracking or discoloration. I experienced  0 discoloration or thermal cracking after applying heat directly to nut and tube using an acetylene torch.

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10 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

Glad it worked out for you Brookelf. My only concern would be the use of Hoppes #9 since it can leave behind residue that might weaken the thread locker's bond. Then again, it likely won't matter!

After I got done removing all the thread lock with Hoppes #9 I use Qtips with Alcohol to wipe around the threads to remove the left over Hoppes residue. I thought the same as you the oil in the Hoppes might affect the Loctite bond. 

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  • 7 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I’m in a state that outlaws collapsable stocks, and bought a M1014 in that state. I’ve removed the trigger assembly and am finding it IMPOSSIBLE to remove the pistol grip stock counterclockwise, to even access the recoil tube at all. I’ve heard reports that some models shipped have some sort of loctite compound in the stock threads themselves, making it unmovable because they don’t want civilians accessing the recoil tube to perform the heat gun process. Can anyone confirm this? Afraid to use more force and torque for fear of breaking the gun. 

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26 minutes ago, SSP said:

I’m in a state that outlaws collapsable stocks, and bought a M1014 in that state. I’ve removed the trigger assembly and am finding it IMPOSSIBLE to remove the pistol grip stock counterclockwise, to even access the recoil tube at all. I’ve heard reports that some models shipped have some sort of loctite compound in the stock threads themselves, making it unmovable because they don’t want civilians accessing the recoil tube to perform the heat gun process. Can anyone confirm this? Afraid to use more force and torque for fear of breaking the gun. 

I think you mean you cannot push the unlock button and turn the tail stock of the collapsible stock assembly? Chances are you have a model that that has an extra screw installed beneath the cheek riser of the collapsible stock that is preventing the button from being pressed in. You'll need to remove the three screws from the cheek riser, then access the screw that is beneath it and remove it. I've heard that loctite has been used on this screw to make it a pain in the ass. Heat may be required to get it to come out without damage.

Once the tail stock has been removed, you can then unscrew the pistol grip.

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@StrangerDangerappreciate the speedy response, thank you. All clear, I managed to get the pistol grip to come off with more torque, but it was screwed on really tight, as far down on the recoil tube threads as it could go. For anyone trying this out of the box, don’t be surprised if it takes a bit more the first time (and definitely remember to remove the trigger housing beforehand). It was a bit of a pain to return the grip back to that level of tension and seat in the correct position, but I managed. The tail stock comes off fine, but you have to practice the 10:00-2:00 motion to negotiate the bevel points at the end of the recoil tube to get the hang of it. Anyways, thanks again for the advice on this.

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  • 1 month later...

MAPP gas torch worked flawlessly. Around 30 seconds with no discoloration or cracking. After re reading the forum I saw that blue loctite is recommended. Is red loctite safe? I applied a generous amount to the thread before applying. 
 

thanks! 

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On 2/16/2022 at 11:37 PM, StrangerDanger said:

Chances are you're going to need to get a MAPP gas torch in order to get it to come free. I've encountered a few extensions that a heatgun wouldn't touch.

MAPP gas torch worked flawlessly. Around 30 seconds with no discoloration or cracking. After re reading the forum I saw that blue loctite is recommended. Is red loctite safe? I applied a generous amount to the thread before applying. 
 

thanks! 

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2 hours ago, Auzi said:

MAPP gas torch worked flawlessly. Around 30 seconds with no discoloration or cracking. After re reading the forum I saw that blue loctite is recommended. Is red loctite safe? I applied a generous amount to the thread before applying. 
 

thanks! 

I only use red Loctite when reassembling the receiver extension. Heat removes it just the same, but easier than the factory threadlocker. You really don’t want this assembly coming loose during recoil. If it comes loose, the entire stock could rotate on you counter clockwise and may make you kiss the rear sight assembly. So I’d definitely use as much Loctite as will fit. I butter the threads entirely and even use it to glue the base or the jam nut to the receiver. After you’re set, wipe up the mess and it’ll look good as new. 

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