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SCOPE HELP, getting frustrated

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Just finished putting my dmz mounts on and shot. Sill ran out of adjustment in scope. Using a brand new redield Dead on at 80 yards, at the end of the adjustment. Any help would be appretiated. Does the long part of the dmz rings go toward the back of the gun?

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Just finished putting my dmz mounts on and shot. Sill ran out of adjustment in scope. Using a brand new redield Dead on at 80 yards, at the end of the adjustment. Any help would be appretiated. Does the long part of the dmz rings go toward the back of the gun?

 

Look at your factory rail. One end is thicker than the other, and if memory serves me correctly the factory rail is marked with front. I tried a DNZ mount and discovered the same problem you are finding. I went back to the factory rail and a set of Warne Quick detachable rings. Allows me to remove the scope for cleaning and transport. I sent my DNZ mount back with a note telling them about the issue and received a refund.

 

Use the factory rail as a guide, and measure the thicker part and make sure you installed the DNZ the correct way. I'm away from home now and can't look at mine for a reference.

 

IMGP0189-1.jpg

 

Steve

Edited by stid2677

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I would call DNZ and ask them what the issues are with using them with a rail mount such as shown above? Sounds like he has also had issues? If the receiver is not level and the DNZ mount is not level you will have a shimming issue which is not a great thing to have to do as Leupold Techs told me only 1 shim should ever be used! Was the rifle bore sighted prior to shooting? Sounds like it was not and i strongly recommend taking it to someone that professionally installs scopes as i did on my 338-378!

Edited by HOGWILD

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I would call DNZ and ask them what the issues are with using them with a rail mount such as shown above? Sounds like he has also had issues? If the receiver is not level and the DNZ mount is not level you will have a shimming issue which is not a great thing to have to do as Leupold Techs told me only 1 shim should ever be used! Was the rifle bore sighted prior to shooting? Sounds like it was not and i strongly recommend taking it to someone that professionally installs scopes as i did on my 338-378!

 

The DNZ mount replaces the rail, it is a ring/rail combo. I don't see away to shim the front or back independently.

 

http://www.dnzproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_50&products_id=372

 

 

Steve

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Not familiar w/ that mount. If there is a difference in thickness in the base under the front ring compared to the back ring, the thicker area should be under the rear ring, the thinner under the front ring. Same way with factory rail.

 

If you have run out of vertical adjustment and the gun is still shooting low, raising the rear of the scope will lower the crosshairs compared the bullets point of impact. It can be difficult to determine if the rail is thicker on one end or the other just eyeballing it, it's only going to be different by a few thousands of an inch (small changes on the rifle produce large effects 100 yards down range).

 

If the rail is flat w/ no difference in thickness front to back, I would sent it back and use the factory rail. The only shimming option you have at this point is to shim inside the rear ring. I have used that on 22's and air rifles, but that's a mighty poor "fix" for a high power hunting rifle - the recoil will eventually cause the shim to shift affecting POI.

 

HTH

 

David

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Steve has answered the question.

The receiver is made to use a tapered mount. The factory rail or some other system that mimics the tapered rail must be used.

I'm not a fan of shimming.

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Here's a paste from another thread I wrote a few months back:

 

"I have the 20" barrel in .30-06 on my walnut stock standard R1 with the Nikon Monarch UCC scope in 3-9x40. On that barrel, I use the Warne 1" medium height rings and the scope sits nice and close to the barrel. Note that it's sitting on the Warne picatiny rail for the BAR, which also fits great.

 

On the .300 Win Mag barrel (came with the rifle), I have a Zeiss Conquest 3.5-10x44 on the factory rail and they're Leupold standard rings I think also medium height. Sits nicely on the receiver just a hair above the barrel/chamber."

 

I had no adjustment issues at all with that setup. Mounted the scope and was sighted in with less than 10 shots and no bore sighter.

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Just talked a local gunsmith. Going to try and mill the dnz nount to match the rail mount. Thanks for all the help guys. He thinks he can do it. Think DNZ would fix this problem. Hopefully he can mill it. Really like the dnz mount. Not a big fan of shimming,don,twant to missa buck or bull of a lifetime because a shim moved. On another note two weeks ago right after I sent this post lightning struck my house and fried my PC and DSL. Thats why I couldn't get back. THANKS AGAIN,HUGE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Just put one of my leupolds on from another rifle.It worked fine. Still have about a full turn of adjustment on the scope. I think i will leave well enough alone. Now I can start working on a load. What are you guys findin for groups out of these. Last three shots were about 3inch at hundred yards. Havent really worked on a load yet.

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I don't hand load, but I seem to get about 1.5" at 100 yards with both the .30-06 and .300 Win Mag using the Hornady Interbond (not the Superformance line) in 165 grains. These seem to shoot the best for me, although I've shot a lot of different ammo through both barrels and haven't really found any "bad" rounds. It looks like the interbond is only available in the Hornady factory loaded Superformance line.

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