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theplayer

SBE2 stovepipe problem/ejector plate

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First, does anybody know how to replace the ejector plate on an SBE2? I can get the spring out but can’t figure out how to remove the plate. You can’t slide it out because there is a raised rib in the barrel behind the plate that prevents it from coming out. It looks like there are screws on the top rib of the barrel that may have to be removed so the rib in the barrel will come out. I have a camo gun so these screws are covered and it would mess up the camo if I access the screws. Does anybody know how to do this?

I am having the same stovepipe problems with my SBE2 that others are having. It didn’t start until the gun was 2-3 seasons old. Can’t remember exactly but it had at least 500 rounds before it ever stovepiped on me. Like others it did it on below freezing days/overhead shots. I completed stripped the gun cleaned and lubed with CLP which is supposed to be good below freezing. I cleaned the recoil tube and lubed with CLP. I keep the gun clean anyway but I wanted to start fresh to see if it still stovepiped. It stovepiped even with the CLP so lube was not the issue. Oddly it will cycle 2 ¾” loads perfectly and it only stovepipes on 3 ½” and 3” shells. It has done it with different brand shells but a gun should be able to shoot any brand anyway. It’s not caused by me shouldering the gun wrong because I can fire it at my side without shouldering it and it never stovepipes without being shouldered. I finally sent it off to Benelli this spring to try and get it fixed. They replaced the extractor spring, modified the extractor cut, and adjusted the extractor. They didn’t touch the ejector spring or the ejector plate which I figured was the main problem. I’m not sure why they just didn’t give me a new extractor instead of modifying the cut. I have heard that changing the extractor cut may fix the problem because it allows the extractor to hold on to the shell better. It hasn’t messed up yet but I haven’t shot it in below freezing weather yet either.

Has anybody else returned their gun for this problem and what did Benelli do to fix it? Did it fix the problem? I am thinking of changing the ejector spring on my own because it is cheap and easy to change out. I can’t figure out how to replace the actual ejector plate which is why I asked. Since my problem didn't start until the gun had several hundred rounds through it I believe the problem is caused by a worn out spring or a change in parts tolerance due to use.

Edited by theplayer

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It hasn’t messed up yet but I haven’t shot it in below freezing weather yet either.... I am thinking of changing the ejector spring on my own because it is cheap and easy to change out. .

 

 

I am slightly confused by your post

 

first you describe your problem but then at the end, after you got your gun back from Benelli, the problem is no longer present (although you have yet to test in cold weather). which begs the question, why would you still want to replace the ejector spring if you are not sure that the problem is even still a problem??

 

second, you have heard of similar problems, and a similar fix (the modification of the extractor) which was performed on your weapon, yet you still want to do more? doesn't really make sense.

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I could have posted 2 different threads but wanted to kill 2 birds with one stone. I want to know how to replace the ejector plate and I wanted to see if people had success with Benelli repair for the stovepipe issue. I want to be prepared incase my problem still exists. During the season I don't want to have to send the gun in and be without it for several weeks if there are simple things I can try on my own.

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I would find some better lubricant than CLP as how can it do all 3 functions and do any one of them good enough? Use some synthetic lubricant and did you do any kind of break in when you first got the shotgun? What specific shot shells does it stove pipe with? Is it one or two specific manufacturers? Whose shells are stove piping? Several manufacturers have been know to make defective brass that SBEII's do not cycle properly? It's in an old post from mudhen but he figured out the issue a long time back and i would do a search for his post and see if any of the shot shells in his post are the ones you are using! CLP the only thing you are using to keep the SBEII up and running?

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The only lubes I use are the Benelli oil that came with gun, Breakfree CLP, and Breakfree LP. I use the CLP in the recoil tube, and the LP on the bolt rails and other places that require a light coat of lube according to user guide. I used the Benelli oil prior to buying Breakfree but the problem occured using both lubes. To my knowledge Breakfree is a good product and it is synthetic. Here's info on the product, "Break-Free's flagship product, CLP is a unique formulation of synthetic oils and individual proprietary ingredients which synergize in combination to do three important tasks simultaneously: Effectively Clean, Lubricate and Protect metal. After years of rigorous testing, CLP actually exceeded the Military's requirements and was approved as a product to meet MIL-L-63460, a new specification. Break-Free CLP is now recognized around the world as the standard by which maximum metal performance and protection is ensured."

It has stovpiped Kent, Winchester, and Fiocchi brand. It shouldn't matter what brand shell you use a 1500 gun should shoot all of them. My $500 Mossberg shoots these brands with no problems, but I want to use an inertia gun because they are easier to clean. I shouldn't have to buy a specific brand to ensure my gun functions properly. If that's the case I may have to drop Benelli and get a different gun.

Edited by theplayer

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