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Benelli M4 -- Magazine Tube Removal Pictorial


StrangerDanger

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I like to make simple modifications to the tips to increase their efficiency and security when compressing parts more so than the snap ring itself; as you compress some snap ring requiring parts the tendency is for the tips of the tool to slide off the part. The Wiha's come in a variety of angles and pin sizes.DSCN0037_zps6ufjfvhk.jpg

DSCN0034_zpsu8s6nlbx.jpg

Edited by benelliwerkes
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  • 7 months later...

This worked well for me.

1) Remove trigger assembly and bolt - basically gut the receiver.

2) Brace receiver in a suitable vise (preferably with non-marring surface) with the bottom of the receiver facing upwards.

a. Since most non-marring surfaces are a polymer, situate the mag tube so that the mag tube and/or the area of the receiver where the tube threads into the receiver is not directly in contact with the polymeric non-marring surface.

b. Picture attached with receiver in vise (orange polymeric non-marring surface)

3) Use a heat gun with a concentrating nozzle. Set heat gun at about 500˚F. Aim concentrating nozzle into mag tube and directly over the mag tube threads. Your target is where the follower is normally positioned.

a. Picture attached with heat gun nozzle pointed inside mag tube – pointed at threaded area.

4) Apply heat and simultaneously start to unscrew the mag tube.

a. This step is easier as a two-person operation. One person aims the heat gun, the other person begins to unscrew the mag tube.

b. Person unscrewing must have a heat resistant mitts, preferably mitt that is grippy (silicone type works well)

Going inside out is faster because it applies heat directly to the threads and save having to heat the end of the receiver and mag tube.

Worked perfectly!

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  • 1 year later...

Completed two tube removals today and wanted to say thanks to SD for the excellent step by step and all of the email assistance along the way! There were two of us removing a black and dark earth barrel. Using a wagner 750 @ the default 650 deg with the receiver stripped down it took on average of 11 mins to heat it up enough to remove the tubes. One of us kept the heat gun on it and the other turned the tubes right out while using a bench vise to secure receiver. Both weapons were purchased in Apr of this year and both had red locktite in them. When the barrels came out the locktite came out on the tubes and left little to no residue inside the receiver. Was really an easy experience. Thanks to all in the thread for sharing their experiences! Tubes should be here next week from CompCarrier (thanks to Kip and Marcy) and not going to re-apply locktite to the new tubes.

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Glad I could help. It's only scary doing the first one. After that you realize it's a piece of cake. I try to keep up with the messages, but lately I've been traveling a lot for work and sometimes fall behind.

 

Photobucket turned in to a real Jerry and screwed up all my hosted pictures.

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  • 1 year later...
On 11/11/2011 at 2:41 AM, StrangerDanger said:

As you can see, the receiver will look nasty once you get the magazine tube removed. The white powder is the pulverized locktite. Flush the receiver out with BreakFree to remove the bulk of the debris. Use acetone and a wire brush to remove the remaining locktite from the receiver threads.

 

006-1.jpg?t=1321005718

 

Here is the magazine tube #122 removed from the receiver. You need to recover the Forearm Retaining Band #69 (gigity). The Forearm Retaining Band #69 is a slip fit part that will simply pull off of the Magazine Tube #122.

 

011.jpg?t=1321005597

 

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Bringing this one back from the dead...

Followed SD’s instruction above, installation of my newly acquired Carrier Comp 7-round tube (much appreciated @DailyEDC) went flawlessly. Damn does this thing look exceptional on my M4.

I ordered a gnarly powerful heat gun & had everything lined up for a fight -work gloves, infrared thermometer, pals on hand, etc.- and heated around the factory 5-round tube for literally less than a minute, gave it a twist and it threaded right off. How anti-climatic is that? 

For context, I had no work gloves on yet and the last 2/3rds of the factory mag tube was still ambient temp. I’ve got forearms like footballs (dude earlier = LOL) but this was overly easy. As a note, I was hyper concerned about over torquing the receiver while twisting the stock tube so took it very easy on twisting.

There was clearly a red thread locker on the threads but was purely liquid when heated/removed. Easily wiped away and though I had also ordered thread locker red #242, I test fitted the CC tube and it locked in tight so I didn’t end up using the threadlocker.   

Anyway, recognition to StrangerDanger for the start on this project and to DailyEDC for the good buy of a Carrier Comp mag tube and words of wisdom installing it.  

Last, let’s never forget this gem:

On 11/11/2011 at 2:41 AM, StrangerDanger said:

You need to recover the Forearm Retaining Band #69 (gigity). 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Got my CarrierComp tube put on yesterday.  It did not come easy.  After buying a heat, and mapp torch I still couldn’t get it off by hand.  Had to use my neighbors vice, and a small pipe wrench to pop it loose.  No way it was coming off by hand.  
 

I was getting frustrated and with a little help from or resident expert, StrangerDanger, I was able to get it.  

The carriercomp tube is perfection and i highly recommend them. 
 

I also have the FFT forearm so with the tube and follower I’m 922r compliant  

325CBC16-4C34-421C-8BE3-E990EF817126.jpeg

Edited by Diesel79
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  • 1 year later...
16 hours ago, oakfan71 said:

It seems like no matter how much heat I put on this thing, I cannot get the magazine tube to release

Heat the receiver evenly around the tube not both or youl expand both parts evenly. That’s bad.  Get an inferred thermometer. Mine came off at a receiver temp of 250-256 degrees Fahrenheit.  Took about 15 minutes with a heat gun. I assume much less time with a torch. I could hear the locktight separation at around 200. Sounds like little cracks. Use a hot mit and twist it off at the 250ish mark. I encountered no smoke.  Your results obviously may vary from mine as some are stubborn. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

My heat gun @ 650F turns red thread lock into liquid in less than 10 minutes.  If you can’t get the tube to break free, You need more heat.  I don’t like to use a flame personally, but the 650F heat gun setting I use makes the thread locker smoke and that’s when you know it’s ready.

 

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Newbie here.


Wanted to thank the folks in this thread for all the information regarding the tube removal and install. 

Just got a M4 and it was stupid easy to remove the OEM tube on mine. 

Heat gun on low setting (450 F) and I only had it on the receiver for like 2 minutes as I wanted to test if it would move at all and it turned just using my hands.

The red lock tite didn't even melt but pretty much crumbled off. 99% of it was on the tube threads and basically nothing on the receiver threads.

Wiped off all the crumbled pieces and the new tube (DMW) went on easy. 

Also, DMW tube is great! Got it in like 4 days after ordering on his site and while it may not be as nice as the FFT, CC or Briley, for 115 bucks, you can't beat it and he actually had them in stock. 

I'm sure the titanium tubes from FFT (honestly think they are way over priced) and CC (reasonably priced but 3-4 month wait) are nice but DMW tube is exactly what I wanted at a price that is very reasonable.

For any other newbies like me, here are the parts to make it 922r compliant.

DMW tube - 115

DMW follower - 19

FFT forend - 70

 

20220801_162242.jpg

20220801_162302.jpg

20220801_162311.jpg

Edited by Chipperchoi
added info
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On 8/1/2022 at 4:35 PM, Chipperchoi said:

Newbie here.


Wanted to thank the folks in this thread for all the information regarding the tube removal and install. 

Just got a M4 and it was stupid easy to remove the OEM tube on mine. 

Heat gun on low setting (450 F) and I only had it on the receiver for like 2 minutes as I wanted to test if it would move at all and it turned just using my hands.

The red lock tite didn't even melt but pretty much crumbled off. 99% of it was on the tube threads and basically nothing on the receiver threads.

Wiped off all the crumbled pieces and the new tube (DMW) went on easy. 

Also, DMW tube is great! Got it in like 4 days after ordering on his site and while it may not be as nice as the FFT, CC or Briley, for 115 bucks, you can't beat it and he actually had them in stock. 

I'm sure the titanium tubes from FFT (honestly think they are way over priced) and CC (reasonably priced but 3-4 month wait) are nice but DMW tube is exactly what I wanted at a price that is very reasonable.

For any other newbies like me, here are the parts to make it 922r compliant.

DMW tube - 115

DMW follower - 19

FFT forend - 70

 

20220801_162242.jpg

20220801_162302.jpg

20220801_162311.jpg

Just realized that c stock requires 4 parts so Mesa Urbino stock has been ordered to replace the c stock. Can't edit the last post and want to make sure some doesn't get the wrong info about 922r.

Fixed or not, c stock counts as 2 parts and need a total of 4 parts replaced. If you replace the stock with a field stock or a solid PG stock you just need 3. 

 

 

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