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StrangerDanger

Benelli M4 -- Magazine Tube Removal Pictorial

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Just removed the stock magazine tube to install the CC Ti tube. Very straight forward and easy. Heated with a heat gun on low setting for less than five minutes, directing the heat to the tube but not the receiver. Mag tube and receiver wrapped with micro fiber cleaning cloths for insulation and protection of finish. Using two people, one holding the receiver and one holding the tube, simply unscrewed with only moderate effort. Anyone who is avoiding this out of concern for using heat need not worry if reasonable care is taken. Biggest issue was cleaning off the thread locker (red); acetone sort of worked but it took some time. Almost all of the thread locker came off on the stock tube threads, not on the receiver threads.

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I will say though; it takes two to tango. I tried doing it myself with the knees yesterday...no dice. Today I did it with one of my employees and it took less than five minutes.

 

~ David

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I just finished taking the original tube off of my M4. Instead of clamping the receiver in a vise, I clamped my tube near the end and had the receiver out hanging. I used a wooden block with a hole that had been drilled thru it, and then cut in half. Actually, the blocks I used came with a kit I had bought years ago to do barrel changes on rifles. I started a timer to see how log it took to loosen or break free. A little over 9 minutes. Now waiting on the new tube to get here.

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Well, now I have encountered my first "red" formula Benelli. It is a LOT harder to remove. I think they were going for as close to permanent as they could get without JB Weld. Heat from my 1000W heat-gun has minimal effect (it turned about 1 rotation, and I broke the cheap strap-wrench from wal-mart, as well as tearing some callouses through gloves). A quality strap-wrench that can handle some real tq will be necessary. Benelli is wise to our ways!

 

*I don't advocate a vice AND a strap wrench, it's just, I deadlift 315# raw for reps and my hands are fine. I've torn the living **** out of my hands trying to get this mag tube loose. I don't work in construction and don't have hands like a hobbit's foot, so the strap wrench, I recommend it for the sake of your own wellbeing if you are similar, lol

Edited by Unobtanium

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Well, now I have encountered my first "red" formula Benelli. It is a LOT harder to remove. I think they were going for as close to permanent as they could get without JB Weld. Heat from my 1000W heat-gun has minimal effect (it turned about 1 rotation, and I broke the cheap strap-wrench from wal-mart, as well as tearing some callouses through gloves). A quality strap-wrench that can handle some real tq will be necessary. Benelli is wise to our ways!

 

*I don't advocate a vice AND a strap wrench, it's just, I deadlift 315# raw for reps and my hands are fine. I've torn the living **** out of my hands trying to get this mag tube loose. I don't work in construction and don't have hands like a hobbit's foot, so the strap wrench, I recommend it for the sake of your own wellbeing if you are similar, lol

 

Maybe an advantage of the H20 model; that heavy work has already been done for you by Robar. Or does Benelli send them to Robar unassembled? I just used a hair dryer for about 1 minute on mine, held the receiver between my knees, and the tube twisted right out.

 

I don't see any reason for them to use any type of thread locker on the mag tubes. There is no way that it could come unscrewed, being held under pressure by the nut on the end of the tube.

 

There were remnants of a red material in my receiver's threads, but barely anything. The threads of the tube and the receiver are coated in the NP3.

 

Geez, good luck with that. Are you just going to keep applying more heat?

Edited by Evolution

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Tried this a couple of times on my montefeltro using a heat gun for ten to fifteen minutes receiver was too hot to touch and glue was smoking but can't get the tube to budge! Resorted to bringing the monte to a gunsmith who used a torch on the tube and said he gave it a good heating and couldn't get it to move, was in contact with Benelli who say it should come off anyone encounter this problem?

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I installed a Carrier Comp magazine tube on my M4 this last weekend. My M4 had the red thread locker applied from the factory. It took a considerable amount of heating and patience to break the factory tube loose. I had the receiver loosely clamped in my vise, using some heavy leather gloves and an old 100% cotton hand towel for padding (i was probably over-cautious, but the thought of accidentally crushing the receiver made me cringe). I hit the front of the receiver and tube with heat until it started smoking, and got maybe 1/8 turn before it stopped turning. I'd hit it again with the heat until it was smoking again and get maybe another 1/8 turn. This went on until i had the original tube unthreaded about half way. I was then able to fully remove the original tube. The tube and receiver were very hot, and the heat was almost too much even through the heavy leather gloves i was wearing to get a good grip on the tube. Luckily, the vast majority of the original thread locker came out with the tube, leaving the receiver threads relatively clean. I cleaned both the receiver and new tube with acetone, applied a liberal dose of blue Loctite 242, and installed the work of art that Carrier Comp had sent me. The new tube is gorgeous! And with the hammer from Geissele, and the carrier from Carrier Comp, i'm even 922® compliant. HUGE thanks to the more senior and experienced members for sharing their vast wealth of knowledge! From researching what components to buy, and learning tips and tricks on how to install them, you've made this project a walk in the park.

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Thanks! I've got a thing for quality. :) I do have one concern, however. I used Loctite 242, when it seems that Loctite 243 would have been the more appropriate choice given the metals/finishes involved. I'm half tempted to take everything apart, clean it all up, and reassemble with the correct thread locker formula. But it seems like those who don't use any thread locker at all don't seem to have any issues, so it might be a complete waste of time to re-do everything. But given the titanium/anodized aluminum combo, will the Loctite 242 ever fully cure? Or will i have half-cured goop in my M4's receiver until i clean it out?

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But it seems like those who don't use any thread locker at all don't seem to have any issues,

So far for me, ^this.

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I don't use thread locker on my magazine tubes or any that I install. The magazine tube can never fully back out when the weapon is assembled since the magazine cap had that detent in place. Being able to take the tube out helps a lot during the cleaning process.

 

Youd be be find with the 242. It may not be as good as the 243, but it'll do the job intended.

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Thanks for your input, gentlemen. Since i've got a bottle of the 243 sitting around (it was included with an Aimpoint micro lower 1/3 riser...go figure), i'll probably tear it apart and use the correct thread locker, if for no other reason than to satisfy my OCD. Cheap insurance for a defensive weapon. I wish i'd known about the differences between 242 and 243 to begin with, or how thread locker works for that matter. It was by pure accident i even stumbled across the thread that made me aware there was a difference.

 

ETA: I disassembled the Carrier Comp magazine tube from the receiver tonight, and the 242 Loctite had in fact cured and required heat to break free (not as much as the factory thread locker did though). Interestingly, the vast majority was stuck to the receiver, with hardly any adhering to the titanium tube (factory was opposite, with the majority stuck to the tube with noting on the receiver). Perhaps there was just enough brass on the receiver threads from when i cleaned it out after removing the factory tube to activate the Loctite. At any rate, i would have been just fine with the 242 (and i applied it VERY liberally the first go around). Once everything was cleaned up, i applied an equally liberal amount of 243 Loctite and reassembled everything. The 243 started to cure almost immediately, so i suspect it will be fairly bomb-proof once fully cured.

Edited by Deadwing

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Glade it worked for you D. when I did mine I only used the 242 I learned like you did but never had much time to shoot. so far no problems that I see. I remember when I got my carryercomp tube in that shi was so fine lol made me feel like a 74 year old feeling up a 20 year old... I have give it to StrangerDanger guy does good work... If carryercomp made plane I would fly it...

Edited by Hardcharger

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Just a thank you StrangerDanger for the mag tube pictorial. Just got my Carriercomp mag tube installed. Took less than ten minutes to heat and remove the factory tube. There was very little red loctite on the mag tube. Just have to install the new Geissele hammer and the FFT disconnector. Then I'm 922R compliant. I'm using a GG&G stainless follower. Does not have US on it that I can see but the company says it's US made. Wonder if that is a problem? Do have a factory collapsible stock installed. Thanks again for the help.

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No problem!

 

You'll be fine with the gg&g follower. If it were ever in question, you could show them what gg&g claims.

 

Look ok up my pictorial on the trigger group for swapping out the disconnector. Getting the pin back into place can be a PiTA.

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I just finished readng your pictorial on the trigger group disconnector swap. Is the disconnector pin just hard to get started or easy to lose or both? I have some nice tools for the job. I may not have the patience for the job though. Thanks for all your help. It's really appreciated by us all here on the forum.

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Taking the pin out is very easy. It'll fall out if you take the spring tension off of the disconnector and hold the unit just right.

 

With the right tools you'll get it -- just expect some cussing. That tiny pin is tough to hold onto while holding the spring loaded disconnector in the right position. The pin fits rather loose, so driving it in with a punch isn't really needed. If everything is lined up, it will press in easily.

 

Alignment or slave pins help some, but it's still hard to manipulate such a tiny pin. Trying to displace a slave pin with such a tiny pin is frustrating. I think I showed a technique in the trigger pack disassembly guide that worked the best for me.

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Benelliwerks,

Did you modify your roll pin holder so it isn't so deep? On all of mine, the pin is so short that it nearly sits entirely in the recess.

 

I guess a spacer could be used, preferably a magnetic one. I just haven't sourced it and deal with the cussing.

 

Just finished assembly of this trigger pack for a H20. FFT trigger, FFT disconnector, TTI shell elevator, TTI safety, Geissele Hammer. All parts NP3 coated except I didn't mess with the trigger/disconnector/hammer sears.

 

IMG_2648_zpszjy4yeg4.jpg

Edited by StrangerDanger

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SD

Sometimes for unusually short length pin sizes I make a cylindrical "shim", either with a cut-off piece of similar sized drill bit or from drill rod stock and reduce the depth of the roll pin holder in that manner; alternatively, I have made brass punch roll pin holders only because the brass is so easy to machine; the brass ones also are nice to start even regular roll pins to reduce the risk of marring the parts.

 

DSC00102_zps0vemcs66.jpg

Edited by benelliwerkes

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Thanks benelliwerkes for the pictures and advise. I believe I can handle my trigger group with all the help from you and StrangerDanger. I ordered my snap ring pliers today. I didn't see any I wanted at the local places to buy tools. StrangerDanger the H20 trigger pack looks great. But why not the trigger/disconnector/hammer sears? Thanks again for the help to you both!

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Excellent tools. I'd like to make some up like that when I pry the lathe out of my father's cold dead hands.

 

With my experience with Nickel Boron, I found that the coating was rather thick and caused tolerance issues. With my recent coatings with NP3, I found there wasn't much change in tolerances. So I think having the hammer/disconnector coated would work. Since I screwed up part of my last order, I need to have another order completed. I think I'm going to have the items coated. Mainly I'm interested in having the NP3 on the portion of the hammer that makes contact with the bolt carrier.

 

I have this cheapo set of snap ring pliers from Ace. I like them better than my expensive set from Channellock.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1286443&KPID=991176&kpid=991176&pla=pla_991176

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