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M4 Questions


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Well I got the M4 today and opened the box and noticed all the oil had leaked out of the container. :mad: I was a little surprised that it was all broken down, I thought it was going to be complete. No big deal, it actually made it easier for me because I added a factory collapsible stock and then had to make the dam thing 922r compliant:rolleyes:

 

The installation of Kip's full mag tube was fun (seriously). Placed the receiver in the bench vise with rubber guards, fired up the old heat gun, put on my work gloves and it came right off. I was surprised how "little" heat was needed to melt the factory locktite . I'll bet I didn't even get it up to 130 degrees if that. I thought you had to really get them up to 250-300 degrees. I would heat a little then try it and keep doing that till it came off. I liked that little tool he throws in there to get that red cap off too. Piece of cake.

 

Now for my stupid questions. I noticed that it came with a factory "choke" in the barrel. What the **** does the choke do? Do I really need it in there?

The manual shows different ones with numbers on them but my has no numbers on it. What's up with that? Is it supposed to have numbers on it?

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The M4 chokes come with little grooves to indicate what restriction it is at the front edge so you can determine what choke is in place when it is installed. It is Improved Modified. Do not fire the M4 without the choke installed. The shot/slugs will damage the threading.

 

I wasn't going to fire it without checking with you guys first. On page 128 of the manual it states that

4 notches = Improved Cylinder.

2 notches= Improved Modified

 

What threw me off was that my choke doesn't have any "symbols" just the "notches" Maybe some chokes have them and some don't. No big deal with me now that I understand what their used for.

Thanks guys:)

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Perhaps if you Googled Shotgun Chokes, you could read many articles that explain about chokes and how they change the spread and pattern of the shot from your shotgun which can also effect the range at which you could make clean hits. For example (using small bird shot) a full choke might help with hitting Pheasents at 45 yards verses an improved choke for Quail at 10 yards. For buckshot and slugs, the choke that came with your shotgun wll do just fine.

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And you're actually lucky to have a choke. Many lesser "tactical" shotguns don't have the option.

 

Errr...I dunno. With slugs, it doesn't seem to matter much, and with the advent of "tactical buckshot" that has Flite Control wads, it makes the choke obsolete for buckshot. I bought an M590A1 a while back and at 40 paces (about 40 meters for me, as previously measured time and time again), it threw all 8 00 pellets into an evenly dispersed

 

I have done a TON! of patterning with my M4's and have never duplicated those results.

 

For tactical use, the choke is just "one more moving part".

 

That said, all chokes perform differently. The MOD choke that came with your gun should be fine, and you might find a load it really likes. Then again, you could buy a MOD tube from Briley, and it will pattern buckshot totally differently than your OEM MOD choke--or it might not. I had an OEM Benelli IC choke that patterned buckshot VERY! tightly, and then an IC choke from Trulock that dispersed buckshot very well...

 

Shotguns/chokes are voodoo. Play with it until you get it right. There is no formula with Buckshot it seems. Smaller shot is more predictable.

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