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M4+GGGz01.jpg

M4+GGGz02.jpg

 

Finally broke down and installed these 2 things.

 

They appear to work very well just in handling them and dry firing.

 

Definitely feels like a massive improvement over the stock items. I'll let you know how they hold up when faced with a couple hundred rounds of OO.

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Hmm

 

Here should be working links

 

http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1XSI5rGBKCmI9t5QwG42G9q82tR9zA

 

http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=12AlXuT1BApknoK22rDNEj4t81Ldzz

 

Installation of the bolt handle was the same as the stock one, easy.

 

Installation of the release pad took a bit of work, but mainly because I still don't have a drift punch set.

 

So I had to bootleg up the install using a hammer and a small screwdriver as a drift punch.

 

You basically need to completely disregard the directions, and go with common sense. Take a look at how the release pad functions, look at the new parts you are given, and it's pretty obvious what you need to do. It took me about 30 minutes to do ... I could do it again in 10.

 

For those considering purchase, my method was this.

 

1) - remove bolt, trigger guard, etc, so you have the open receiver to work with.

 

2) - Punch out the stock pin that hinges the stock release button, bottom to top, JUST ENOUGH so that you can get the stock release out. DO NOT punch it out all the way.

 

3) - Put the new pad in, ensuring spring placement lines up with the oil marks of the old one. Push into place and hold there.

 

4) - Punch the old stock pin back down a tiny bit, while holding the new release in place. This should be enough to hold the new release in place without you holding it, making your world 100x easier. You now have 2 hands, and can work on getting the new pin in place without worrying about the springloaded setup flying off.

 

5) - Punch in the new pin from the bottom, making sure it lines up. Punch it in until it is flush, again making sure it lines up in the punch hole on the OTHER side of the release. You don't want to have one hole line up and the other be loose to wobble around, you want to go through both holes, as the stock pin does. It's easy to miss this. You'll feel and hear a noticable difference in the release when you accomplish this.

 

6) - When you made the new pin flush, it pushed out the little bit of the stock pin you left in to hold the new release in place. It's job is now done, you can grab it with pliers and pull it out the top fully.

 

This may not make much senes to people that don't have the parts in their hands, but it's all I have time for right now.

 

Oh, also, it's easy to miss that the actual pad is connected to the release with a hex screw. I thought it just twisted on at first, so I almost broke the entire setup trying to force it off twisting. An allen key worked a lot better.

 

I haven't loctited and clamped the hex screw down yet, as I want to shoot some before I make this a permanent change, but right now it appears to be top notch.

 

SGTMAJ, the charging handle fits as snugly and well as the stock one, it just rotates. I thought this would be a bad thing, when I read about it, but it actually works quite well. There is quite a bit of friction on the rotation, so it doesn't flop around in your hand, it just rotates just enough that it moves with your hand and the gnarled handle doesn't rip skin off.

 

Action shots and stuff coming up. Hopefully these pictures work.

 

[ 07-13-2006, 03:23 PM: Message edited by: Duggan ]

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