df662 Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 I just purchased a Benelli 11707 today and it came with a carrier comp titanium mag tube (extended) with follower and spring. I do own a Benelli m1 entry but I am pretty new to the m4. Anyone have a copy of the directions from carrier comp on exchanging the tube. any help would be appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel333 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 very simple, I just did it the other day. Field strip the gun. Heat the receiver with a heat gun near the area where the mag tube screws in. And then just twist it out with your hands. If you get it hot enough you wont need any tools. The tube is held in with loc tite. You heat it up to loosen the loc tite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 I just purchased a Benelli 11707 today and it came with a carrier comp titanium mag tube (extended) with follower and spring. I do own a Benelli m1 entry but I am pretty new to the m4. Anyone have a copy of the directions from carrier comp on exchanging the tube. any help would be appreciated. Thanks! Hi df! Here is a copy of Kips instructions: Tools required; > Heat gun.(Refrain from using flame devices, torches, etc., they are overkill and have the potential of discoloring the finish on the receiver) > Snap ring pliers. > Stiff nylon or brass bristled tooth-brush, Q-tips and acetone. > Rubber grip pad. (Similar to a jar lid gripper, or even a piece of tire inner tube) > Padded vise. (not required but helpful if done alone without an assistant) Before proceeding please ensure the firearm is completely unloaded, clear mag tube and chamber, firearm on safe. Lock the bolt to the rear, then remove the factory barrel nut (by hand), set the barrel, bolt group, and handguards to the side. Using snap ring pliers set to compress when gripped, carefully remove the spring retainer from the end of the factory mag tube, (keep it aimed away from your face, with your other hand over the end so that the spring can be safely contained when it is "set free"). Then tilt the gun downwards, allowing the spring and follower to fall out. Place gun in a lightly clamped padded vise (ensuring the bolt release button is not clamped), between your knees, or in the hands of a competent assistant. Using the heat gun set to a maximum 400 F, apply direct heat to the full circumference of the mag tube where it meets the receiver, allowing heat to reach the receiver as well, continue rotating the heat around the junction until the two are beyond unbearable to touch (using an infra-red thermometer if available, you will typically see results when the receiver temp nears 250F), favor application of heat to the receiver, as it retains heat more efficiently. At that temp (around 250F) you should be able to begin twisting the factory tube off [ccw](here's where the rubber grip pad does double duty as a heat shield, and provides much better grip than bare hands). Do not use a pipe wrench for a few reasons, 1st it will damage your factory tube, but foremost it will provide excessive torque that may allow you to force removal before the loc-tite is ready to let go. Once it starts to turn, the battle is won, just keep it turning until it is free. Next clean the internal threads with acetone, Q-tips, and the nylon or brass tooth brush. It will look scary at 1st since the residue from the factory loc-tite is chalky white, but once you have it all cleaned off, you should be looking at the pristine black anodized receiver threads where the old tube use to be. You are now ready to install your replacement tube. Don't forget to transfer the handguard's stamped steel rear brace onto the new tube BEFORE threading it into the receiver, it is a "captured part" that has to be in place during assembly. Most people opt to fore-go the use of loc-tite, simply torqing in their new tube as tight as can be done by hand. If you use loc-tite, make sure you check the data sheet, and select a grade that can be heated for removal with LOW HEAT like the factory used. Typically just a drop of medium strength Loc-Tite brand "blue" will be sufficient if you use any at all. Replace all the remaining components, and enjoy!! Later, Hookster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super33 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Hookster's awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Randall Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 I'm not a gunsmith and have been challenged by screwdrivers (you know, that righty tighty; lefty loosy thing). I just followed Kip's instructions, and it was easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saym14 Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 why would you want to remove it ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckcop Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 (edited) why would you want to remove it ??? When he says "it came with" the carrier comp extended tube, I guess he means tube wasn't installed on the gun. He now wants to install it which would necessitate removing the factory tube. I wondered about that myself. The original post was a little ambiguous. Edited June 11, 2012 by truckcop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unobtanium Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 I suggest using Loctite Primer 7649 with Loctite 242, or instead using Loctite 243. Titanium and anodized aluminum do not play well with un-primered 242. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 OK, I hate to have to ask this, but I've done everything stated in the directions to remove the factory mag tube and I am having NO luck getting it to turn loose. I did it exactly as stated above (and in the included directions copied/pasted above) short of putting it in a vice. Am I missing something here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frigatecon Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 Just keeping heating it until you see smoke coming out the end of the tube. It took probably 20 minutes (the low setting on my heat gun, i don't rmember the temp) for me to see that. Twist a bit, heat some more, keep twisting and it will eventually break free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 Just keeping heating it until you see smoke coming out the end of the tube. It took probably 20 minutes (the low setting on my heat gun, i don't rmember the temp) for me to see that. Twist a bit, heat some more, keep twisting and it will eventually break free +1 on that IIRC it took a good 15-20 min before I got it to twist a little after that it was a heat for a while/get a little twist process until it finally gave up. Don't be afraid of the heat, you're not going to hurt anything...I think I was being extra careful but if I was doing one again I'd just heat the heck out of it! Later, Hookster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKOMBU Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 When I switched my tube out I padded the jaws of my vise with cardboard secured by duct tape.I clamped the receiver top facing down.I took a wooden paint paddle and split it into five one inch long by 3/8's inch wide pieces.With a one inch diameter screw type hose clamp (automotive) I captured the wood slats with the clamp around the stock magazine tube.Using my heat gun softened the O.E locktite and easily twisted out the part.No damage/No drama. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frigatecon Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 +1 on that IIRC it took a good 15-20 min before I got it to twist a little after that it was a heat for a while/get a little twist process until it finally gave up. Don't be afraid of the heat, you're not going to hurt anything...I think I was being extra careful but if I was doing one again I'd just heat the heck out of it! Later, Hookster I think I was being too careful too. What scared me at first was that it looked like the receiver was discoloring a bit due to the heat. No worries though, once it cooled it looked exactly the same as it did before heating. If I were to do it again, I'd probably skip the low setting and blast away on high Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amsdorf Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 Keep us posted on how it goes, I'm going to be going through this in a few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KB Fab Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 There is really no need to heat the receiver. When I did mine, I used a Milwaukee heat gun on the low (500 watt) setting and focused the heat on the portion of the stock tube just next to the receiver. The steel is so thin that it heats up much faster than trying to apply the heat to the aluminum. Then, I started to see the loctite smoke just a bit and started the turning process. It took a couple more applications of heat to the tube to completely loosen the grip of the loctite. Once that was done it unscrewed without any trouble. I know that there are those that have done this mod heating the receiver with no issue but I would much rather distort the finish on the tube, that I won't be using ever again, than to risk damage to the receiver finish. YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heckler&kochp2000 Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 just take a propane torch to the magazine , try it on a aluminum can see how fast it burns or warps the can , don't heat the receiver . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 Ok, thanks for the tips guys! What made me hesitate last night was seeing it start to smoke, but that's apparently the sign that you're pretty much there. When I got home tonight, I pulled the heat gun back out, wrapped the receiver in a wash cloth, and lightly clamped it in a Jaw Horse. At first I put the heat gun on 400 like the directions state. After about 20-25 minutes, it wasn't smoking; so, I kicked it up to about 600-650. Voila! In no time it seemed like it was smoking. I let it go a little longer (maybe smoke 15-30 sec) and that baby unscrewed right out without even putting anymore heat to it. It also seemed to help directing the heat directly toward the tube where it threads into the receiver and not directly at the receiver. So thanks for the help! And I can't say enough for the quality of the new tube! Looks to be smoother machining and closer in color to the barrel than factory. And I can't believe how little it weighs! Impressive! Kip has really done a bang up job on these!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unobtanium Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 Loctite 243, or 242 WITH PRIMER is required for this application (bonding Ti to anodized Al). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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