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Benelli M4 -- Receiver Extension Removal/Reinstallation Guide


StrangerDanger

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Even the magazine tube was held on by a different type of locktite. The new thread locker is a reddish color.

I noticed the same thing while installing a CC mag tube a couple of weeks ago. No longer the green Loctite...and it did take a substantially longer time and higher temp to break the tube loose.

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I found the new red locktite bonded better to the aluminum than the old green stuff did. I spent half an hour with a dental pick chipping the new locktite out. On the older tubes I've done with green locktite, almost all of the locktite came out on the magazine tube or was pulverized into powder.

 

I'll be stepping up to a bigger heat gun I guess. I don't want to mess with a torch. An IR thermometer would be a nice addition.

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I hear what Dan GSR is saying and understand that the torch (only an arm's reach away) is a more direct approach......however, not just on Benelli's, but other more expensive platforms, sometimes patience is a virtue in that the torch can discolor or maim a camouflage surface or an expensive blued surface, whereas a more slow "gentle" approach, albeit less efficient, is a wiser choice in many instances.

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Any suggestions on higher output heatguns? Even my Mickey Mouse Wagner brand cheapo heat gun claims it operates between 750 - 1000 degrees.

 

Dental picks work well, just wear eye protection. The locktite breaks out at high velocity. Since having a tap that size on hand would likely be rather cost prohibitive, picking is the method of choice. Even stainless brushes are mostly useless.

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I hear what Dan GSR is saying and understand that the torch (only an arm's reach away) is a more direct approach......however, not just on Benelli's, but other more expensive platforms, sometimes patience is a virtue in that the torch can discolor or maim a camouflage surface or an expensive blued surface, whereas a more slow "gentle" approach, albeit less efficient, is a wiser choice in many instances.

 

im sure for some applications where there are fragile parts nearby the torch is not recommended

but when i used my map gas torch the receiver stayed cool since i was heating the nut for only a few seconds

i think it is a much better tool for this particular job

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I used the same heat gun also used for shrinking monokote onto the wings of my drones and radio controlled aircraft.

Evenly distributing the heat to the inside of the receiver and to the barrel entry point did the trick for me. Several attempts and a few eighth inch turns later and the tube was removed. The only strange thing was that there was no apparent residue left behind and cleanup was a snap. I did notice at the time the tube started to break free that there was a slight sheen of melted adhesive visible at the exposed threads coming out of the receiver.

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  • 2 years later...

Just a brief update:

 

I did another clients M1014 under my FFL today. Without a doubt, the MAPP torch is the way to go. It took me maybe 2 minutes of flame to break the threadlocker. Newer production M4's are tougher to get apart than the old ones. I failed on a newer production 11707 a few years back after two hours of using two heat guns on the extension.

 

About the only reason to disassemble a newer production model is to fix a damaged extension or if you're doing some kind of high end coating process.

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  • 4 years later...

New technique which is worth mentioning for those taking on the task themselves. 
 

When you heat the receiver to break down the threadlocker, you’ll want to let the receiver cool down before you attempt to install the new extension with Loctite. If the receiver is hot, the Loctite will cure much too quickly which can impede your work in installing the extension. 
 

I put the receiver in the deep freezer for 5-10 minutes after heating them to get around this issue quickly. 

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On 12/8/2015 at 10:18 PM, StrangerDanger said:

Just a brief update:

 

I did another clients M1014 under my FFL today. Without a doubt, the MAPP torch is the way to go. It took me maybe 2 minutes of flame to break the threadlocker. Newer production M4's are tougher to get apart than the old ones. I failed on a newer production 11707 a few years back after two hours of using two heat guns on the extension.

 

About the only reason to disassemble a newer production model is to fix a damaged extension or if you're doing some kind of high end coating process.

This is probably a silly question but here goes....Should I disassemble the extension to ceracoate the tube?

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 1/8/2013 at 11:50 PM, StrangerDanger said:

014_zps9cab54be.jpg

Side note: This is the part that gets people into trouble with their Mesa Tactical Urbino stock. Once you realize how little torque is required to remove the Stock Retention Screw from the receiver extension, it is easy to see how Locktited screws will back the Stock Retaining Screw out. The amount of torque applied is no match for the cheap snap-ring to contain.

 

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You can see in this photo how the spring has partially ejected out of the Receiver Extension. This is due to the punch being in place. It is much more manageable this way.

I am stuck here. My retaining screw will not budge and I am giving it all I have, the slot ears are starting to deform from the torque. Is it possible the screw has loctite applied from the factory? This is an extension purchased from Beneliparts.

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3 hours ago, Kozumasbullitt said:

I am stuck here. My retaining screw will not budge and I am giving it all I have, the slot ears are starting to deform from the torque. Is it possible the screw has loctite applied from the factory? This is an extension purchased from Beneliparts.

It shouldn’t have any, but it is possible someone messed with it. I would try heating them area with a heat gun to try to break down whatever thread locker may be present. 
 

What kind of screw driver are you trying to use to unscrew it?

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40 minutes ago, StrangerDanger said:

It shouldn’t have any, but it is possible someone messed with it. I would try heating them area with a heat gun to try to break down whatever thread locker may be present. 
 

What kind of screw driver are you trying to use to unscrew it?

I used the bit you recommend. I hit the tube with a MAP torch for 20-30 seconds and the retention screw came right out. I didn't see any loctite residue but something was keeping it stuck. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Does anyone have an approximate estimate on the torque value For the nut?

Since I didn’t remove the nut myself I don’t have a feel for how much force it took to remove.  I’m just trying to get an estimate so I can gauge by hand.  

I’m thinking 20ft lbs maybe?

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Never seen a torque spec given. Most of the holding strength is due to the threadlocker anyway. If you tried to just force your way thru the thread locker without heating the components, you’d likely strip the threads first. 
 

You want this nut tight, but not hanging from the wrench tight. One slip of the wrench and you may mar up your receiver or round over the nut. Since you’ll be holding the extension in place with the 19mm wrench, the 19mm is generally a lot shorter than the 27mm wrench. So if you’re over powering what you’re holding the 19mm wrench with, you’re over the limit. I’m about 200 pounds, so I lean on the 27mm wrench to set it good’n’tight. With every portion of the threads and nut glued against the receiver with Loctite 271 after an acetone bath, that thing isn’t going anywhere unless you break out the heat again. 
 

This is where it can be a real pain in the ass to get your timing of the extension perfect. Even being 1 degree off, you’ll notice with the collapsible stock. 
 

Arguably this is the hardest part of the job. 

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