StrangerDanger Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 I'd rather have the QD point on the upper pistol grip myself as well. Mainly for use with a single point sling. With a good two point sling, it shouldn't be an issue mounting on the tail piece. I'm going to order one of those mounts today. I think I'm going to mount it on the right side of the stock. I think this might help with limiting how the M4 tries to hang away from your body. The mount itself seems easy to modify for our application. I'm wondering if the screws are small enough to fit through the existing sling loop? I don't have a problem notching the stock for the screws. This might even be better from an install point of view. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 (edited) I'd rather have the QD point on the upper pistol grip myself as well. Mainly for use with a single point sling. With a good two point sling, it shouldn't be an issue mounting on the tail piece. I'm going to order one of those mounts today. I think I'm going to mount it on the right side of the stock. I think this might help with limiting how the M4 tries to hang away from your body. The mount itself seems easy to modify for our application. I'm wondering if the screws are small enough to fit through the existing sling loop? I don't have a problem notching the stock for the screws. This might even be better from an install point of view. If it fits on the MOE/CTR without modifying the stock, it will on the B-M4 C-Stock, they are the same dimensions - the sling loop cut out that is. What do you think of using this IWC QD Rail Mount directly in front of the rear sight? This puts it just a tad bit higher, and a few inches forward of the ideal, but it maybe a decent option for those that don't want/have an optic right in that spot... not sure how it would hang with a single point sling, but could be interesting. Edited February 23, 2013 by bm4sbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calviroman Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 A company called "GG&G" makes a similar rear sling loop mounted QD sling receiver mount. Its called the "sling thing". I had one on an M4 carbine a few years back and it was an excellent option for getting QD compatibility out of a regular sling loop. It may be a better for for the M4 C-Stock than the IWC product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 This unit may work even better for the sling web slot on in the B-M4 C-stock since you can move it to any position you want and wouldn't protrude as far as the one built for the Magpul MOE/CTR. See: www. impactweaponscomponents .com /product/rotation-limited-quick-detach-sling/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Using an optic would probably make that top rail mounted QD mount a little more forgiving. The mount may obstruct some iron sight picture. I have concerns about the sling bunching up in the firing position when no tension is on the sling and obstructing your sights/optic. Mounted that far forward may present some hanging issues as well. Ive also considered removing the Mesa unit and replacing it with a QD cup from Magpul that is threaded. Then drill out the stock to accept the QD cup and seat it up against the internal steel bracket. It wouldn't be completely flush, but it would mount about 2/3 of the cup internally. I looked at the GG&G options before. I think the IWC mount would be better. The eight point limited rotation notches would be a benefit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 You don't think the lip of the socket would interfere with the curved back if the sling loop? This unit may work even better for the sling web slot on in the B-M4 C-stock since you can move it to any position you want and wouldn't protrude as far as the one built for the Magpul MOE/CTR. See: www. impactweaponscomponents .com /product/rotation-limited-quick-detach-sling/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 You don't think the lip of the socket would interfere with the curved back if the sling loop? That's a valid concern, for sure. Most of these things are trial and error. I have bins full of parts I've tried in various builds trying to get it right and make things fit from commercial parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 I guess the back edge of the sling mount could be hit with a file if it interferes. Then hit it with Alumablack. Another concern is what the back mounting bracket looks like. It's probably a big oval style nut like I got with my light mount. That might be a bigger pain to massage into fitting. I think the MOE unit would probably be the easiest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 I guess the back edge of the sling mount could be hit with a file if it interferes. Then hit it with Alumablack. Another concern is what the back mounting bracket looks like. It's probably a big oval style nut like I got with my light mount. That might be a bigger pain to massage into fitting. I think the MOE unit would probably be the easiest. The nut is pictured on the IWC page and yes, it is a flat oval nut. After considering all, I agree. The CTR/MOE will be a better fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 BTW - I know you said you were going with the the IWC QD flush for the BLAM4. Do you think there would be fit issues with the Noveske QD Flush Mount unit and the BLAM4? I don't have a blam4 yet to make a judgement on this. Noveske: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 The Noveske mount will work. The BLAM4 is 0.120" thick steel. My concern with the Noveske is the lack of an anti rotation feature. The QD socket could twist in the mount if enough of a load is applied. Since these are limited rotation QD connectors, there is a chance of it. You could bed it in place by applying epoxy around the back side of the BLAM4 to prevent the square nut from moving. The IWC mount will not move once the tensioners are torqued into a notch. The Noveske is probably a lot easier to install since it doesn't need that spirolock ring. Since the bottom surface is flat, it's a simple install. If it has a convex, the IWC will be more forgiving. Unless you have access to a back face counter bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Then drill out the stock to accept the QD cup and seat it up against the internal steel bracket. It wouldn't be completely flush, but it would mount about 2/3 of the cup internally. Not following you here in terms of which location you are referring to. Are you referring to the movable part of the C-Stock? I saw another picture you had where you had a pistol grip torn apart and a switch mounted in it. Is there anywhere you know of you could drill a hold in the stationary parts of the grip/stock/receiver extension and countersink a qd cup? It would obviously need someway to attach to the materials underneath and those materials would have to be suitable, etc etc etc. Dang grips and stocks are so expensive, have to plan this out properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) For this option, I was referring to modifying how the Mesa Tactical QD mount attaches. It would fit in that same location, just recessed almost flush with the grip. It could even be set up ambidextrously so a mount was on both sides of the grip. You would take the grip, remove the metal bracket that the pin holds in place. Then bore out the plastic to exactly the diameter of the QD sockets. This would likely be half an inch. You'd then have two QD sockets from Magpul that are threaded to 10-24 if I recall. You'd need to drill out the metal bracket so it was just large enough to allow the fastener to pass through. The threaded QD sockets are sold for the UBR. Both sides would seat into the grip core against the metal bracket. Look at the typical QD socket, and see how tall they are. Compare that to the thickness of the pistol grip where the pin goes through. On the Mesa QD mount, about 2/3 of it would set into the grip on both sides. The fastener would then thread through either side of the QD socket, through the grip, through the metal bracket, through the grip and thread into the opposite side QD socket. Issues I've thought of that need to be resolved; 1. Both QD sockets cannot be threaded since they will be opposing each other. The threads on one of them will be reversed. 2. The metal bracket within the grip core will be holding the QD sockets in place. The QD socket will be locating the bracket in place as the original pin did. The bracket itself would prevent the QD sockets from lateral movement. 3. Sourcing a fastener will be needed. This 10-24 thread is pretty common at any hardware store. The length can be cut if needed. Edited February 24, 2013 by StrangerDanger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) Well, I decided to give this modification a try and replace the Mesa Tactical attachment point. First I removed the existing mount and disassembled the pistol grip, I even pulled the rubber grip off so I could get a better clamp position for the vice. Measuring the grip itself, the grip is about 1.300" wide. My assembly of an ambidextrous sling mount measures out at about 1.800". To compare, the Mesa Tactical mount mics out to a little over 2.00" For my assembly, I used the Mesa Tactical sling mount and a Magpul threaded sling point. The basic plan was to bore out both sides of the plastic grip core to 0.500" so that both sides QD sling socket will fit inside the grip and won't protrude out the side so far. Using the existing pin hole, I continued to step up my drill bit to 0.500". I left the steel grip core in the grip to act as a stop. This left a small lip at the bottom of the drilled out hole for the QD sockets to sit in. I drilled out both sides pretty easily. I then enlarged the hole through the steel bracket so that the fastener would pass through. I then had to drill out the Mesa Tactical sling mount's QD socket so that the Magpul fastener would fit. I also had to bore out the bottom of the QD mount with a large bit to allow the fastener to seat lower into the QD socket. If I didn't, the male end of the sling would not fully seat. The only bad thing about the Mesa Tactical QD sling mount is its size. It is pretty long compared to most. So even though it is countersunk into the grip core, it is still sticks out about 0.500" on the right side. On the left side, the mount only pokes out about 0.250". I don't have the rest of my shotgun to test the unit on. It's off getting coated. Having the QD socket on the right side doesn't seem to interfere where my trigger finger is too much. I would prefer it to be a lower profile though. I'm going to try to find some better sockets that might have limited rotation and perhaps a little shorter. Edited February 26, 2013 by StrangerDanger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Dang son. You did it. Nice. If I do it, I will likely only do one side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 I have an Ace QD Cup I will pull off an AK I have an measure it's dimensions, hopefully tonight. Although it is not anti-rotational. I am very interested in doing this, but want to get the shortest QD cup I can, or at least one that comes as close to flush is as reasonable. I admit I am worried about drilling the grip because of the ridiculous prices on these in the open market. When you say you step drilled it, do you mean you just used larger and larger bits one at a time until it was at your .5? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 looking at the pics, I am not sure if you would want it fully sunk and flush given the relief points directly in front of and above the mount point... maybe even with those peaks.. thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Case Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) That looks good. I agree that a rotating swivel is much preferred - I feel like the non-rotating types put extra stress on the mechanism and are prone to shear. When you re-attached the rubber grip did you use any epoxy? If so, what type? I need to finish mine and am on the fence about what to use. Too light and it won't work; too strong and I'll have to cut it off with a knife next time I remove it. Edited February 26, 2013 by Case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.